Kentucky Bluegrass

This is a water-hog cool-season grass. Not recommended where the average July temperature is over 75F.

Best here (Boston Z...Read More6a) in spring and fall. 50 years ago most people were content to let it go dormant in the heat of summer. (It's easily damaged by foot traffic when dormant.) Not any more.

To avoid having it choked out by crabgrass, the best time to lay down seed here is when the heat of summer begins to moderate, from mid-August through mid-September. That's also the best time for overseeding. Most people try to seed in spring, and then wonder what they did wrong.

Most authorities now recommend mowing lawns no shorter than 3". Cutting any shorter encourages weeds by allowing more sunlight to reach the soil surface.

Best with soil pH of 6.0-7.0. Does not tolerate soil pH less than 6.0. Here that generally requires frequent application of lime.

Despite the misleading common name, this species is not native to N. America.

This is the most commonly planted or sodded lawn grass in the northern USA. It has a nice fine texture and many cultivars. It is also a c...Read Moreommon pasture grass, as it was first brought from Europe to be that. it and Tall Fescue are the most common grasses in meadows in the northern US with some other Eurasian plants as Wild Carrot, Sweetclover, and several others. American native grasses are found in pioneer cemeteries and some land preserves where they are managed with fire to keep it native. I've always had mostly Kentucky Bluegrass lawn where I have lived in Illinois and Pennsylvania. I like some lawn for walking around and having a sitting area, but there is too much lawn in the USA. A lot of lawn is not good ecology as it absorbs less carbon dioxide and releases less oxygen than other plantings or woods or meadow. I have not treated my lawn with weed & feed like my father, so I don't have a golf course-like space. I like the lawn companions of White Clover, some plantains, and others.

Our grass looks best in spring and fall. In fact, I usually have a green lawn until it snows, and at spring thaw you can see that growth ...Read Morehas already started. This grass requires a lot of water, a lot of lime, regular mowing to maintain 1.5", annual aeration, and a few applications of fertilizer through the season.

Regarding MOWING SHORT: popular recommendations to mow at the highest setting or to mow more than 1.5-2" high don't provide the results claimed (such as reduced weeds). Letting the grass grow long, especially this grass, results in long thatch growing at the base of the stem and reduces the light available to other grass leaves. Mowing high results in more weeds because they are sheltered at ground level, and most lawn weeds are creepers.

MOWING SHORT results in low thatch, thick coverage as all grass stems get plenty of light, and easy early evidence of weeds so that they can be removed.

Companion planting as another poster mentioned (thumbs up!) is a superior way to reduce weeds and retain cool moisture at the soil. I use white clover and common violets. When mowed short, the clover never flower, they just make a springy healthy green substrate.

**

The color is outstanding, as is the soft freshness of the leaves. I'm glad we made the effort to establish this plant for our lawn.

Songbirds especially enjoy the lawn for the bugs and larvae - good food for a bird. And I enjoy watching them!

**

Regarding the comments on growing this grass around and under trees:

The types of grasses that are typically considered "lawns" require a lot of cropping, water, light, and lime. The best "lawn" in the world is the "White Cliffs of Dover" - incredibly verdant grass exposed to reflected light and sub-arctic weather atop a gigantic piece of chalk.

When I say we had a "learning curve" it included realizing that nice turf isn't a filler, it's the focus. My lawn is the fussiest plant on my property.

Unless you live in certain few regions of the world where lush and low grass is part of the natural landscape and grows like a weed!

We have no trees or anything planted in or around the lawn.

**********************

I also want to mention that I've recently become aware that there are GMO kentucky bluegrass; Scott's brand is mentioned in news sites, but I would like to clarify that I bought/buy organic pure strain seed.

NO GMO for me

paani-We've tried Kentucky Bluegrass without any success. I read how pretty a green it is and thought we just HAD to have it.
We ...Read Morehave 2 Black Walnuts out back and several others I'm trying to control and have been unsuccessful in growing any grass under them, except of course weeds and prairie grasses! :D
However, to be fair, the grass hasn't done too well here (KCMO) except in the cooler early spring and late fall. Apparently if I had researched further, I would've found that it doesn't like our excessive heat during the summer. If you put a ridiculous amount of water on it throughout the summer it will do a bit better, but it's definitely a cool-season grass.
MO Conservation says Buffalo Grass-a native grass, is a good alternative for lawns & only has to be mowed a couple times a month. Supposedly it resists clumping, thatch, disease, pests and is drought tolerant. I haven't personally tried it & didn't ask him where we could purchase it. My husband is thinking about trying it this fall in the front but hasn't decided just yet. So far I have decided to keep the pond we've had between the Walnuts and have been able to grow several pond loving plants instead-Cattails, Buttonbush and a few other Natives.
Sorry to not be of much help, but I wish you luck in finding something to grow under the trees.