Good Growing Practices - an Overview for Beginners

Before you start mixing - let's talk a little about how you intend to go forward - I wouldn't want you to make a mistake & end up disappointed or frustrated.

Al

OK, when I gather all ingredients I will get back with you, probably after the weekend.

In the meantime, I plan on screening the Turface. With the Turface fines, I will plant my seeds in flats.

Thanks for guiding me along. I have know for years that my soil wasn't up to par, but didn't know what to do. My container plants (lantana, ornamental sweet potato, coleus) in full sun were dying even though I was watering daily.

I was using Miracle Grow soil, but found the last year or two that it was inferior to prior year's soil. I began mixing peat with it, but now know it should have been spaghnum peat.

I watered occassionally with Miracle Grow or Epsom Salt ( 1 tbsp to 1 gallon of water). I found the Epsom Salt helped with the coloring of the leaves, but didn't know how often I could use it.

I have a misting system that I plan on setting up for next summer which will help when i go on vacation.

Things will improve with a little skill and effort. I belong to the local Master Gardener's Club, but soils were not touched upon during class, but now I am building my skills with soils thanks to you. It's easy to just buy the best pre-packaged soil, but knowing what is needed or required is gratifying.

Your seed flats want a very open (porous)/well-aerated soil, not something as water-retentive as Turface fines. Roots LOVE lots of air surrounding them. I would be thinking something like the 5:1:1 mix for seeds.

MG soils are already very water retentive and contain a very high % of sphagnum peat, so there really is nothing to be gained by adding more peat; in fact, it's more likely to be counterproductive than a benefit.

Whenever you add anything to your soil that is intended to supply singular nutrients, like in the case of Epsom salts where Mg is the target nutrient, it's more likely to be a negative than a positive. Epsom salts (MgSO4) supply magnesium (Mg) and sulfur (S). Sulfur is only very rarely deficient in soils, which leaves us with the assumption that any benefit derived from Epsom salts would come in the form of its Mg content. The question that needs to be asked before you use Epsom salts is, "What leads me to think I have a Mg deficiency?" If you don't have an answer or a reason to apply something, especially when it's an element or compound targeted at increasing the amount of a singular nutrient, you're better to forgo the application; because if it's (magnesium) not deficient, more can't possibly help; rather, it will be a limiting factor.

Al

Hi Tapla,

For seed starting using the 5:1:1 mix, is it still necessary to add lime/gymsum,
crf and micro-nutrient powder?

Thanks,
Linda

The basic recipe for the 5:1:1 mix calls only for garden (dolomitic) lime. It's used as a pH adjuster and as a source of Ca/Mg in almost all commercially prepared soils, too. Because the pH of the gritty mix is considerably higher to start with than the 5:1:1 mix, you would only use gypsum as a Ca source in it (the gritty mix) because it doesn't impact pH measurably. Once you decide on what you want to use insofar as the soil goes, let me know and I'll help you with the best way to go at it, and I'll explain exactly why it's best to take that particular approach. I can go as deep as we need to in explaining, but for now I'll try to keep it simple.

I should say too, that it's not really any more complicated to grow in any of the soils I use, it's just that you're being introduced to concepts that most beginners have never been exposed to or considered before. The same considerations are actually in play for all soils, it's just that most of you have probably never applied them before.

Al

Al,
Thanks for the info. I will probably be coming back to you in the early spring when its time to sow perennial and annual flower seeds.
Linda

Al,

To clarify this in my mind, the 5:1:1 mix is:
5 parts pine bark fines
1 part perite
1 part spaghnum peat (or compost)
2-3 tsp dolomatic lime per gallon of soil or 1/3 - 1/2 cups per cu. ft.

The gritty mix is:
3 parts pine bark fines
1 part perlite
1 spart spagnum peat
2-3 tsp dolomatic lime per gallon of soil or 1/3 - 1/2 cups per cu. ft.

but in my notes I have Gritty Mix can also be:
1 part screened pine or fir bark
1 part screened Turface Allsport or MPV
1 part crushed granite or cherrystone (chicken grit or Gran-1-Grite or gypsum)

I picture the last mix mentioned would be the best for seeds. Am I on the right track?

You have the 5:1:1 mix right.

The gritty mix is:

1 part screened pine or fir bark
1 part screened Turface Allsport or MPV
1 part crushed granite or cherrystone (Gran-I-Grit in grower size or #2 cherrystone)

What you use as a fertilizer with the gritty mix determines whether or not you should add Gypsum as a Ca source and use Epsom salts as your magnesium source. If you just go with the Foliage-Pro 9-3-6, you don't need to add anything else to the soil. It's one of the few soluble fertilizers that contains Ca and Mg.

I'm not sure where the middle recipe came from. If I posted it, I was because I was helping someone address a specific issue. The gritty mix contains no small particles, as that would defeat the purpose - a root-friendly long-lasting soil with good water retention (w/o supporting perched water) and superlative aeration.

Al

Thank you again for clarifying.

Hello Al, I've been carefully reading through this thread. Thank you so much for the time and energy you put into educating us new gardeners.

I have a question. Do you do anything differently for indoor vs outdoor containers? Or for containers used to grow edibles (herbs in particular)? Or for bulbs in containers?

Thanks!

It's important that bulbs have excellent drainage. And BTW, "drainage layers" don't improve drainage, they simply raise the saturated layer of soil higher in the container. Ask if you want that explained in detail. Either of the soiuls I use wouyld be very good for bulbs.

I use either the gritty mix or the 5:1:1 mix for all my plants. The way I decide which to use depends on my answer to the question, "Will this plant be in the same soil for more than a single growth cycle. If the answer is 'YES', I opt for the gritty mix. If the answer is 'NO', the 5:1:1 mix is the soil of choice. I grow all my veggies and the mixed display containers that are scattered around the gardens & decks in the 5:1:1 mix because they are only going to be around for a summer. Everything else, including all my houseplants and all the trees that either ARE bonsai or are being grown on as potential bonsai.

I should note though, that I'm probably a little more particular about guarding against the collapse (breakdown) of soils. Just because I usually only keep plants in the 5:1:1 bark-based soil for 1 year, doesn't mean that that particular soil breaks down quickly. In fact, on a size for size basis, conifer bark breaks down at about 1/4 the rate of peat's breakdown. When you add in the fact that the particles are larger to begin with, you can easily see that the bark based soils will remain serviceable for MANY times (5-8?) times longer than soils based on fine organic particulates like peat/coir/compost. In virtually every case, root-bound conditions becomes a primary limiting factor long before soil collapse could/would.

Moving way back to the top of the thread, I mentioned how important regular root work is to keeping your plants healthy and growing well. 'Potting up' won't do it - repotting and its accompanying root pruning and changing of the soil will. I'm not sure why you never read about this in plant books, but you only need to look to bonsai trees to see the validity in what I'm saying. Bonsai trees are often maintained in tip top health for many hundreds of years, while most of us have great difficulty keeping plants healthy for just a few years. Since many of the trees we grow as bonsai are the same trees we might grow as houseplants, an answer is begged to the question, "Why the difference?" The difference is in the root work.

In nature, plants' larger roots serve only as anchors so the plant doesn't blow over, and as conductive plumbing. The plant really doesn't need them because all they really do is take up space that COULD be occupied by the fine roots that do all the work. I'm getting away from your question now, so I'll leave you with the reminder that after you get the soil right, regular rootwork is a very important part of maintaining your long term plantings, like houseplants.

Al

Al, I just spoke with the local John Deere retailer, and they said they're having problems with the Turface vendor. The closest they could find Turface MVP in a warehouse was in Florida (I'm in MD).

I'm thinking about ordering it on line. I have some sick houseplants that need to be repotted asap.

Do you know of a reputable on-line retailer of Turface who wouldn't charge an arm and a leg for shipping? Thanks!

edit: Actually, I *just* found a local seed retailer that actually carries it! To anyone else looking for it, you might have better luck with a local retailer than John Deere.

This message was edited Nov 21, 2011 11:05 AM

What you may have run into is a JD dealer that doesn't want to order a pallet of it at this time of year because he doesn't sell enough to warrant stocking the remainder through the winter. I've had some difficulty getting the JD dealer near me to order it for me, too ..... unless it coincides with when there s a lot of activity going on with people building ball diamonds or redoing sports projects/athletic fields where the Allsport is so often used for it's drainage/aeration enhancing properties.

Readers CAN go to Profile's website and use the Turface locator, too:
http://www.turface.com/?utm_source=Adwords&utm_medium=Paid&utm_term=turface&utm_content=The%2B%231%20Conditioner&utm_campaign=Turface%2BAthletics

Al

Good morning Al,

My husband offered to pick up some pine bark fines for me,he came home with shredded pine bark.Could you explain exactly what bark fines are? Is there anything I can use the shredded bark for?

Is there any plant that you grow in regular potting mix,soil,(dirt)? Have you found that everything will grow in a mix that has no soil?

I have enjoyed read all the information your sharing with us.I also think all your pictures are just beautiful!!!

Thank you Jo

JJ - I think that one point that almost all container gardeners are stuck on is that the soil somehow has to be the source of the nutrients. So often we get excited over rich and black soils because we know thing usually grow well in that type of garden soil, but water behaves much differently in garden soils than it does in containers. To answer your question .... I haven't grown anything in a commercially prepared, peat-based potting soil for more than 20 years. What I make and help others to make is soo much better and less expensive, it makes no sense for me to use commercial soils. The only reason I could think of to use a commercially prepared, peat-based soil is if you didn't understand the importance of good drainage and aeration, or put another way - if you didn't understand the negative impact of excess water retention; AND, you placed a lot of value on convenience - on the fact that you can just buy the soil and have a plant in it 15 minutes later w/o having to actually make it yourself.

When it comes to nutrition, the best thing a results oriented container gardener can do is shoulder the entire burden of ensuring his pl;ants get all the nutrients they need and that the nutrients are always available in a favorable ratio and at a favorable concentration. By far, this is easiest to achieve through the use of soluble synthetic fertilizers. I have nothing against organic sources of nutrients, and I depend on them almost exclusively in the gardens & beds, but when it comes to container culture I find it difficult to conceive of how effective nutritional supplementation could be any easier or efficient than with soluble synthetics. Combining them with a durable and well aerated soil is getting pretty close to foolproof.

If you scroll up to the picture I posted on 10/29, you'll see pine bark fines from 3 different sources. You'll usually find the product labeled as something other than pine bark fines - pine bark mulch, soil conditioner, landscape mulch, others. The important thing is that most of the particles are in the size range of dust to 3/8" for the 5:1:1 mix, or screenable to 1/8 - 3/8 for the gritty mix.

Just so we're clear - I don't make any judgment about an individual when it comes to discussing what people choose to grow their plants in because I haven't walked a mile in their shoes & would never suppose to order someone else's priorities, but judging a soil is quite different from judging a person. It is very often possible and in some cases easy to make judgments about practices or soils, and to compare soils based on science. My aim is to lay out the information people need to become more proficient at growing and to gain greater satisfaction from the experience. I fully realize I have no control over other people's choices, and don't want it. I do get a lot of satisfaction though, from being associated with people who DO want to learn and who will put forth the little bit of extra effort it takes to shrug off the limitations that are inherent in heavy soils and practices that make little hort sense. ;-)

Al

Thank you Al,

You nipped my problem in the bud.I was looking for something that was right in front of me,but I didn't understand about the labeling.I guess I'm not up to speed on the language of gardeners.I have tried to make a soil-less potting medium,rather I am following your instruction here trying to improve my own skills.There's always room for improvement my moma used to say and the only dumb question is the one not asked.I am fairly new at this,I took up house plants as a hobby when I was diagnosed with MS,so I would like to learn as much as I can.Sorry my questions are so basic!!

Hope you had a lovely thanksgiving, god bless,

jo

I don't think anyone should ever feel embarrassed about where they are on their journey to proficiency, or about the questions they ask seeming too basic. I have much more respect for the growers who are trying to improve their abilities and increase the satisfaction they get from growing through their acquisition of knowledge, than for any who might pooh pooh science in favor of trial and error. The problem with being content with learning by trial and error is the 'content' part. Usually, if you're content with learning by trial and error, you're also content with committing the same errors over and over. Even if you don't make a change in your soils or nutritional supplementation based on what you absorb from my offerings, you will, at the very least, be able to RECOGNIZE the source of problems in the future. Because the trial and error crowd can't SEE what is going on in the root zone, and often have no way of discerning nutritional problems other than through the application of some basic science, they're at a decided disadvantage.

Don't worry about being up to speed on the language. If you come across a word or phrase that confuses you - look it up, or ask for clarification. I think you'll be amazed at what you'll learn while chasing down answers. One of the reasons I enjoy answering the more technical questions is that I'll often check to be sure my offering is technically correct. I learn a LOT when I look things up because I always read enough to make sure I understand the context.

Thank you for the kind words. I did have a very nice Thanksgiving. The kids and grand kids were here, a few friends ..... even my wife's ex and his mother were here (his brother couldn't make it). ;-) We had the traditional turkey & all the fixin's. I'm also the cook around here. I've been married for 32 years and I think the number of meals my wife has had to prepare in that time could be counted on 1 hand. Our deal is I cook & she cleans up the cooking mess - but I do help by cleaning up all the prep mess as I go. I hope you and everyone else had a good holiday, and that you all found plenty to give thanks for. Musing: as I grow older, I welcome the time I often take to dwell on the things I have to be thankful for - on the 'Thanks' part of Thanksgiving. Strangely, and I focus on this often, one of the things I'm most appreciative of is the ability to be ever grateful for the countless blessings in my life. One of the things I count as a significant blessing is, the realization that happiness revolves around our ability to feel blessed by what we have, in contrast to being forever in want of what we don't have, came to me early in life. Hardly a day passes now without my reflecting on the number of things in life that bring me joy.

Like this:

I agree totally about your Thanksgiving thought. I often feel it is a characteristic I aquired later in my life and try to teach my children the same. I too am thankful that I do the cooking and DH does the dishes.

Since we are having rains these days, I haven't gotten to start my soil mixture(s). Hopefully tomorrow brings back the sunshine.

I'm so glad you both had such a good thanksgiving!!
Al, you speak of your family in such a loving & appreciative way,it's so nice to hear people talk about being thankful for what they have.It seems so many don't understand the meaning of thanksgiving any more.I have learned to be happy with what the good lord has blessed me with and not dwell on what i don't have or can no longer do.My 2 daughters,2 grandsons,my plants and of course the DH keep me going and thankful that i can!!!

I have to say the picture is incredible!!
I can't wait to read more of the knowledge your so happily willing to share with us about growing plants!!

HAPPY HOLIDAYS

Jo

Wow, that picture is amazing! How in the world did you get it to come to you?

Glad everyone's Thanksgiving was nice! My chicken decided to lay her first egg over the holiday, so it seems we're all happy.

I have a question about pots.. Is there a pot better than the rest, or is that all up in the air, too?

Al, I had a severely root-bound pothos plant that I root-pruned and divided into 5 smaller plants. Some of the divisions aren't looking so good... yellow and droopy. They were all transplanted into either the 5:1:1 mix or the gritty mix. The peace lily that was root pruned and transplanted is looking beautiful but requiring a lot more water than before; it droops after just 3 days.

Are you supposed to water more often after root-pruning? I'm used to using the "fingers in the soil to see how wet it is" method, but that doesn't work anymore...

Thanks for the holiday wishes. I hope too, that everyone had a good Thanksgiving - good food and good fellowship.

It's not hard to hand tame a Chickadee. I recently sold a piece of hunting property that was home to at least 50 tame Chickadees, maybe a dozen nuthatches, a few tits, and a brown creeper. They all have curiously different habits, but I'll just tell you how to hand tame the chickadees & then we have to get back on topic so future readers don't have to sort through too many OT posts.

Hang a feeder from a tree branch and fill with sunflower seeds to get the birds used to coming to the feeder. When you're ready to tame the birds, take the feeder down and put it out of sight. Put some sunflower seeds on your hat, and lean against the tree - very still. Almost immediately, the chickadees will land on your hat. Once they're used to that, shake the seeds off your hat & hold them in a gloved palm. They'll soon be eating from your hand. I can usually hand tame birds within 10 - 15 minutes, once I take down an established feeder. The farther away the nearest neighbor's feeders are, the easier it is to hand tame them. They have little incentive to eat from your hand when the neighbor's feeder is only a few wing beats away. It really is a lot of fun to go out in the back yard & spend time photographing the birds. I can get them to give me a kiss by putting a sunflower between my lips & holding my hand palm down and flat, even with my chin. They land on the hand & pluck the seed from my lips - pretty cool. ;-)

TR - I think that deeper pots are easier to grow in, and pots with gas permeable sides produce healthier plants.

If a soil supports 3-4" (ht) of perched water, it supports that ht of perched water in any container, regardless of its size or shape. If you use a heavy soil that supports 4" of perched water in a 4" deep pot, the entire soil volume remains saturated after a thorough watering; but if you use the same soil in a 12" deep pot, only 1/3 of the soil volume remains saturated. So, the shallower the container - the more important it is that the soil drains well and supports little perched water.

As far as pot material, I prefer terra cotta because it's gas permeable. It lets air in, and the undesirable gasses like sulfurous compounds, methane, and CO2, out. It's especially valuable when you're using heavy soils because the porosity speeds evaporation of the water in the soil. Reducing the amount of water over-retained much faster than pots made of nonporous materials - plastic, glazed clay, etc. Pots with mesh sides are also good, and I use a lot of cedar boxes for the material I'm growing on as future bonsai. They're not the prettiest, which is why I'd probably give terra cotta the first nod as being best for houseplants. Remember too, that I'm answering from the plant's perspective - from the perspective of what's best for the plant. While many may prefer the prettier appearance of other pots and the 'convenience' of not having to water so often. Those votes are not from the same perspective; and though they need to be acknowledged, while doing that let's acknowledge the dissimilar perspective.

SSG - just a guess, but it sounds like perhaps you got some really large bark to make your soil and it's not holding enough water? Particle size is important - let me know how big the bark was and how you made it.

You DO need to water more often after repotting if the remaining root system is small. Also, since all but winter growers (plants that tend to grow more when days are short) are wanting to rest now unless they're under very good lights, it's going to take a while for the roots to reestablish. In most of the US, the period between Father's Day and July 4th is about the best time to repot. Those in the southernmost parts of the US can repot a little earlier and still get very good results.

Can you share a picture of your soil? I think that once the PL's roots colonize the entire soil mass, your watering intervals will increase, but lets look a little deeper into what's going on.

Al

Hi, Al....

Just quickly chiming in to say how much I still love reading your posts, your sharing of knowledge, and how much education I get from following you around! You're the best!

Love the pics of the birds, my other favorite form of life in addition to plants. I'll have to try feeding them by hand!

All in all, thanks for offering us all a great education not only in the plant world but from your perspective on life itself.

Extremely grateful,
Shoe

Wow - undoubtedly one of the nicest compliments I've received. Thank you so much for the very kind words, Shoe.

I just commented on another thread that education (knowledge) is what puts us on the fast track to 'green thumb' status, not experience. If we ask ourselves the question, 'Is doing something wrong or ineffectually again and again in the same way for a half century worthy of being called experience'? - most will answer with a resounding 'no'. Knowledge is key because w/o it we have no way of knowing when we're doing something wrong, or when our efforts are less effective than they could be. Too often we make up science to fit our observations, instead of questioning our observations when they don't fit with what we know of science. Getting the basics right so we CAN question our observations and not mistakenly adopt them as dogma is the reason for my starting this thread. My hope is that everyone that follows it will end up with an improved growing experience through better understanding.

Thanks again, Shoe!

Al

This message was edited Dec 2, 2011 1:36 PM

Now THAT'S a great perspective to work by.."education vs experience" (and just what is 'experience'?)! I agree whole-heartedly.

"Getting the basics right so we CAN question our observations and not mistakenly adopt them as dogma..."

That hits the nail on the head. 'Tis the absolute only way to start out as well as continue successfully.

Wishing you a great day and hope you have a wonderful weekend!
Thanks again,
Shoe

Hi Al,

Thanks for giving us the information on your soil mixes. I am a just a little confused. When you said:


1 part of screened pine or fir bark
1 part screened Turface
1 part crushed granite or cherrystone (chicken grit in grower size or #2 cherrystone)

How would I measure it so that I will have a balance mix of everything? Would you suggest using a cup to measure and put the mix together?

M2Chang

It doesn't matter what you use to measure the ingredients. The measurements are by volume, so a cup, a gallon, or a 5 gallon pail of each will yield the same soil. I keep several bushels of screened ingredients on hand at all times so I can make any size batch I want. With around 200 bonsai, most requiring yearly repotting, plus all my other plants, you can see that I go through a LOT of soil. I usually add about 2 gallons of each ingredient to a masonry mixing trough, mix thoroughly, pour the mixed soil into a trash can, and then go on to mix the next batch.

Al

This thread got all quiet all of a sudden... I guess it's time to reawaken it! I found some grit. I didn't have time to go to John Deere. Where is everybody finding the screened fir bark at?

A bonsai friend introduced me to the convenience of prescreened fir bark many years ago. I've been buying mine in 3 cu ft bags from Oak Hill Gardens, NW of Chicago (I pick it up usually 20 bags at a time), but before I discovered the fir bark, I had a number of sources I'd located that could provide a suitable size pine bark, which works just as well when screened to 1/8-3/8". You just have to keep your eyes open for something suitable. See my post dated 10/29 for suitable bark and my post dated 11/11 for what I use to screen the bark. The screens needn't be as elaborate ..... it's just that I do use a lot of soil & the screens make it convenient for me.

Many use a fir bark product found in the pet supply depts of larger dept stores, called Repti-Bark. I understand it comes in 2 sizes, and the smaller size is the most appropriate.

Al

Al, that is a handy dandy tip about the Repti-Bark. I was wondering where I was going to find screened bark.

I imagine most people are busy getting ready for the holidays. I know I sure am! I figure I will do my rereading and repotting in springtime.

I have tried some of the Turface in pots but am wondering if it has an order when wet.
The pot I used as a test with Turface (but not the correct mix ratio) was left in the rain and became fully saturated. When the temp dropped down into the 30's I brought the pot indoors.

Haste makes waste. I just haven't had time to screen my pine bark.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm......my bad.

Turface is inert and has no odor of its own, but mixing it with organic ingredients that break down quickly can produce unpleasant smelling gasses, but the same can be said for any other inert soil ingredient as well. You're more likely to notice odors in any of your plantings if you use organic forms of fertilizers. Those would be things like various meals (blood, bone, hoof, horn, feather, cotton seed .....), fish emulsion, seaweed emulsion, and similar. An over-wet soil with as soggy layer at the bottom of the pot will find bacteria and fungi that thrive in anaerobic (airless) conditions working extra hard to produce the gasses associated with decay.

Make sure you screen your Turface through insect screen or a regular size mesh kitchen strainer before you use it for the very best results. The whole idea behind making the gritty mix is to produce a soil with particles large enough that it holds lots of air and no perched water. We depend on the fact that the bark and Turface are internally porous, holding water INSIDE the particles and not between them. This is the departure from soils made of smaller particles (peat, compost, coir, topsoil, sand .....) that makes the gritty mix and the 5:1:1 mix so easy to grow in and productive. When it comes to soil particles - size matters.

Al

You are right! I did put a small amount of organic soil mix I had. No wonder it had a smell. I have some powdered fish emulsion that I can use only out doors since the smell is so strong. No wonder it was given to me.

I put my/your/our soil receipes on flash cards for convenience, but did not realize that Turface should be screened also. I would probably have to pulverize my Turface so it can be screened. Another "to do on Friday".

???
Turface already has a significant volume of fine particles that should be screened out for best results; so when you mention 'pulverizing' your Turface, it sends up warning flags. You can see what the finished gritty mix should look like if you scroll upthread to the second picture I posted on 10/29.

Al

(( raising my hand over here )) So we need to screen out the particles that are too small, as opposed to omitting the ones that are too large.

Exactly. You're shooting for a coarse mix that holds lots of air between the large particles, with most of the water being held within the porous particles. Water retention is closely linked to particle size. The reason most commercially produced and bagged soils are so difficult to grow in over the long term, is because the particles that make up the soil are so small that they hold water between the particles instead of air. All container growers will benefit significantly if they remain aware of how important ample volumes of air are to root function and plant health. Most of the problems container growers come to these forums with, seeking resolution, are the result of the heavy soils they are growing in. Even the disease and insect-related problems are most often the result of the plant's inability to produce the bio-compounds that form the plant's natural defenses against these pathogens; this, because of poor vitality and a sluggish metabolism resultant of impaired root function. Healthy roots are essential to healthy plants - no healthy roots = no healthy plants.

Al

A little off-topic, but will this soil save begonias with root rot? All of my Begonias for some reason just decided to get root rot ( I'm assuming ), and I was wondering if I used this soil originally, if they would have it now?

In a technical sense, even the best soil won't cure the fungal infection that is root rot, but it will do an excellent job of ensuring root rot can't get a hold in two ways. First, by providing a well-aerated rhizosphere (root zone) that is hostile to the several common damping off fungi. Second, by ensuring cultural conditions favorable to root growth, health, and function, it offers the opportunity for plants to grow stronger; by that, I mean plants have the opportunity to glow at something much closer to their genetic potential compared to their counterparts in soggy soils. Since the bio-compounds that act in the plants' behalf as their defense against insects and disease are a by-product of the plants' metabolism, a more robust metabolism ensures stronger defenses.

We can't see what's going on in the rhizosphere, so we tend to disregard it, but roots are the heart of the plant, and they come first. The first thing to emerge from the seed is the root radical (tap root), followed later by the stem, & cotyledons. If you can't or don't keep the roots happy, there is no chance you can keep the plant happy.

The cultural condition most responsible for the fungal infections that kill roots is to much water and not enough air in your soils. These heavy soils are also largely responsible for the salt build-up that many of you are or will be dealing with this winter. I water freely, and I water on a schedule (gasp). I can honestly say that all I need to do to keep root rot at bay is to use just a little reason. I can't remember the last time I lost a plant to an issue relating to suspected root rot ..... and I grow some plants rather sensitive to wet feet. and I grow them in very shallow containers (bonsai) that would normally seriously compound the problems associated with a heavier soil. The short answer is, it's very unlikely you'd be having a root issue with your plants if you were using a well-aerated soil and watering correctly.

Al

Hm...strange. If anything, I underwater. I now have the grit, and the turface. Guys at John Deere where awesome. Now I just have to find the bark!

What kind of dirt do you use for seeds/germination? Won't seeds slip right out of the dirt, or dry up too quickly? Can I use regular store-bought dirt for them, or is that bad for them?

It depends on the seeds I'm starting. If it was for veggies or bedding plants, I'd use the 5:1:1 mix made with pine bark fines:peat:perlite @ 5:1:1 respectively. Seedlings demand a medium with very good aeration if you're to minimize the probability of damping off diseases. for larger seeds, say for instance desert rose seeds, I'd sow them directly on top of the gritty mix and cover lightly with the fines I screened from the Turface. Alternately, if I was using the 5:1:1 mix, I would cover the seeds with about 1/8" of fine peat or sand.

The keys to a high rate of germination are: a favorable temperature (usually around 70*) and the right balance of air and water in the soil. The soil should NEVER be soggy - about as damp as a wrung out sponge is great. After germination, if you used bottom heat to bring the temperature of the soil up, remove bottom heat. Good light is important to strong seedlings, and air movement both strengthens the seedlings and adds an extra measure of protection against damping off diseases.

It's been slow here at Dave's the last few weeks, so in case I don't get the opportunity to wish everyone a Very Merry Christmas, I'll do it now. No matter what your religious views, I wish everyone happiness & peace in their hearts, not only during the Christmas and New Year holidays, but every day of the coming year and beyond, as well. Merry Christmas to all.

Al