Two questions

Dragonfly: It was someone else talking about using the rain barrel, not me. I don't think it would work in my setup, though I think it is a great idea. I'd call the people at dripworks -- they are very helpful, and I'm sure they'd know the answer.

Hart: I'd definitely consider adding a timer -- they can be set to run, for example, for 2 hours every 3 days. But they aren't perfect. I think part of the problem is remembering to turn it off when it does rain, so you don't overwater. I haven't decided whether I'd be at more risk if I have to remember to turn it off when it rains, or if I have to remember to turn it of when it doesn't rain. . . . There is a rain sensor available, but the more I look at that, the more expensive and problematic it appears to be.

I'm interested in rain barrels and drip systems, but I have not done my homework on either of them ... yet.

We're figuring on rigging a homemade drip system using pvc pipe. I have 3 rainbarrels on order and DH thinks he can set them up so we can have enough gravity feed to make that work. I just use my microwave timer. I set it for a certain amount to time, go back and check the feed and if it's not wet enough, I'll just reset. I also want to be able to move that drip system around if I need too. Since we use 3 ft wide beds that shouldn't be an issue. PVC pipe is light enough I can manage it without hurting my back.

My yard is very hilly, so I need something fancier to regulate the flow, unfortunately.

USDA zone maps only gage you on coldest average days -- the new heat zone maps complete the picture a bit. We in DC-area lost more things to the freeze-thaw-freeze-thaw-freeze etc. that we cycle through for 4+ months then to absolute cold. PLUS we have the heat and humidity which can make many Northern plants just turn to a mess in our summers.

I completely agree -- it is a real challenge here! Plus I have a bit of a laissez-faire approach -- I don't coddle plants much, so anything borderline won't get an extra nudge from me!

We are slightly south, but because of the topography in the area, we're closer to a zone 8. Once you garden for awhile you begin to get the feel for what will work and what won't make it. I have a tendency to "push" the envelope in the spring and can usually succeed, but I do have to use row covers and cloches to make it work. But that gets us early tomatoes, peas and pole beans.

Wow, a few days away from the computer and I'm way behind.

Well according to the hardiness-zone map, I'm in zone 6 and on the border of 5 and 6 on the heat-zone map. I get what you're saying about micro-climates, I have cannas in the south-east corner of my house along the foundation and never have to dig them up in the winter.

I use soaker hoses ($10 at Costco) and hook them up to a garden hose. I set the timer on my watch and putter around the yard until it's time to hook up the next soaker hose. Planning several more garden in 2008, once they're ready, perhaps I'll install a drip system.

Love the weather station idea