Ficus Tree ??

Help!!! I was given a plant while in the Hospital which I was told was a Ficus Tree by the Florist who knew nothing more about it. It is now about 4ft. tall and I want to know if I can put it outside as I have no room for it inside. It is in a very large pot and doing very well but I really need to move it. Can anyone help me? I am not good with a digital camera so can't send a picture. Sure hope someone knows what I am talking about.

I put mine outside under a tree last year where it got dappled shade. I don't know what your summers are like though. They may be much hotter than mine, though we're in the same zone, so I am not sure. My ficus loved it and grew quite a lot. I killed it over the winter, though... :o( Sorry I can't be of more help. Someone else who knows more than me will come along shortly, I'm sure. :o)

Oops, almost the same zone. I forgot that I'm in a and you're in b. Close enough, I'd think.

Robin: Click on this link to Plant Files and you can see if this is your tree. There are many different types of Ficus Trees, but one widely sold as a houseplant is the Ficus Benjamina or Weeping Fig. They will get VERY large! I used to have a few that were 8' tall in containers. Not my favorite plant ... if I moved it from one side of the room to the other, it would go into shock and lose all it's leaves ... messy. Down in South Florida they are grown in the ground and get really huge and some folks use them for hedges too. In your climate, you could keep the pot outdoors during the summer, butI don't think it would survive winters in zone 7. If you don't want to keep it, you could always donate it to someone else, a business office type plant! I ended up hauling 5 or 6 to the end of my driveway one year for the trash and my elderly neighbors dragged them home. He planted them in their yard even though I told him if we had a hard freeze it would kill them. They survived in their yard for a few years before the cold finally did them in one year!

Here's the link to Plant Files

http://davesgarden.com/pf/go/719/

Lin

Thank you for your help. Mine is indeed a Ficus Benjamina and I plan to set it outside but will bring it in this fall as our temperatures get pretty cold during the winter. The summer weather gets to 105 so will watch it for any problems and if I have to I will give it to an office in town where it can be kept inside.

Robin: The tree could also be pruned to keep it at a more manageable size.

I wrote this as a handout to participants of a bonsai workshop I did with F. benjamina as the plant material. Though the perspective is from a bonsai viewpoint, the cultural information is still pretty much applicable. Hope you find it useful:

From the family: Moracea (relative of mulberry)

Native: India, other tropical - subtropical regions

Ficus benjamina is one of the species of Ficus commonly referred to as a strangler fig. It often begins its life in the crotch of a tree, or on a branch as a seed deposited in the droppings of an animal. After germination and as it grows, it does not actually parasitize the host plant, but uses it as support while it produces thin aerial roots that dangle or attach themselves to the host trunk, gaining nutrients and moisture from the air, leaf litter, and the bark of the host. This relationship is termed epiphytic, or the tree an epiphyte. Those familiar with the culture of orchids and bromeliads will recognize this term. When the aerial roots reach the ground, the tree begins a tremendous growth spurt, sending out more and more roots and a canopy that eventually shades out the host at the same time the roots compete for nutrients in the soil and compress the trunk and branches of the host to the point of stopping sap flow. Eventually all that is left where the host tree once stood, is a hollow cavity in the dangling roots that have now become the trunk of the Ficus. It is easy to see how many of the trees in the genus have come by the name strangler. The roots of some species are so powerful they can destroy concrete buildings or buckle roads and can be measured in miles, as they extend in search of water.

The Ficus genus, with more than 800 known species, is undoubtedly the number one choice as a subject for indoor bonsai culture. It tolerates the "dryer than desert" conditions actually found in many or most centrally heated homes reasonably well. Benjamina’s fairly thick leathery leaves with a waxy cuticle help to limit moisture loss, although it much prefers humidity levels well above 50%. Its preferred temperature range is from 60 degrees f. to near 100 degrees. It should be noted; however, that extended exposure above temperatures in the mid 90s will slow or stop growth, and below the recommended limit, the tree will decline slowly, with the damage being very subtle and probably not apparent until later, when the cause may well be forgotten.

The number one cause of Ficus decline and subsequent death is without question overwatering. When we consider the young tree and its ability to obtain sufficient moisture from the air and bark surface of the host, we can extract the very important lesson: my Ficus will not tolerate wet roots! , or wet roots = rotted roots. Ficus b. will tolerate very dry soil well. Allowing the soil to completely dry; however, will result in leaf loss and undue stress. I have grown various cultivars of Ficus b. for many years and usually check my trees twice daily when they are putting on new growth. I have found that waiting until emerging or new leaves lose turgidity and just begin to wilt, is the best time to water. If you feel the new leaves often, you will soon be able to tell when wilting is about to start and can water accordingly. I never water my Ficus with cold water. I allow tap water to set overnight to help dissipate the chlorine and come to room temperature before using. In summer I do the same or use water from the hose that has been warmed by the sun.

The roots of Ficus are very vigorous and the tree will concentrate much of its growth potential on root development. A quick review of the growth nature, particularly how the tree is programmed to develop the all important first aerial roots, serves to reinforce this assertion. When in pot culture, development of trunk and branches will lag root development substantially until the container has been well-colonized by the roots. Ficus b. does not mind being potbound and can thrive with a root to soil ratio approaching 90 /10. In bonsai culture such ratios are not realistic and can create watering problems, not to mention aesthetic considerations. I am not advocating you maintain this ratio, but this knowledge can be a useful tool in deciding when a repot is in order or in answering the question: "Why are my tree’s trunk and branches developing so slowly?".

Ficus roots need air. Again, returning to the epiphytic nature of the tree, we see the roots of the young tree thrive in just air. For this reason, we should always use a soil mix with large particles - in relation to the size of the tree, but perhaps larger than you might normally use. Soil particle size must be balanced with the amount of time you can spend on the tree’s needs. Large soil particle size = healthier tree, but there is a qualifier: you must be prepared to water more frequently as particle size increases. I have not tried this method, but I have read that you may aerate the soil of potted Ficus by inserting chopsticks and rotating to create air pockets. It makes good sense, and because of the vigorous nature of the roots, I believe the practice would present little danger if some slight wounding should occur. The ideal time to repot a Ficus, in our area, is about the time you can depend on outdoor nighttime temperatures remaining above 55 degrees f. or around mid-June, but I have repotted them at all times of the year with little ill effect except that they will sulk for a time. Bottom heat, such as a propagation mat, along with high light levels will fractionalize recovery time after a root prune and repot.

The light requirements of Ficus in general varies by species, but a good generalization might be; that although most Ficus begin life as an understory tree and are generally quite shade tolerant, they actually spend their life striving to reach the canopy where they find full sun. For this reason we should give Ficus all the sun they will tolerate. I grow all varieties of Ficus b. in full sun, although I am as yet unsure of how much sun Ficus b. "Midnight" will tolerate. (new note - full sun after acclimation is fine) I have often read that Ficus defoliates at the slightest change in light level or temperature. I have found this to be only partly true. Any trees I have moved from a location with a lower light level to a brighter location have not suffered leaf drop (abscission). If the change is reversed leaf loss is probable. It might be interesting to note that trees that are being grown out, or allowed to grow wild are most likely to suffer loss of interior leaves when light levels are reduced. Trees in bonsai culture, where thinning has occurred to allow more light to the trees interior are less affected. Indoor supplemental lighting is a broad subject, but if you have the ability to provide it, your trees will definitely show their appreciation. Brighter light = smaller leaf size, shorter internodes. and superior ramification, not to mention a marked increase in overall mass. Concerning leaf loss due to temperature fluctuations: It should be noted even fairly short exposure to cold draughts will cause leaves to fall. The cool temperatures trigger an increase in abscissic acid, a growth regulator (hormone) that plays a major role in leaf loss. It follows then that it is prudent to select a location free from cold breezes.

Ficus b. has a fairly large leaf, but responds well to bonsai leaf reduction techniques. Complete defoliation is a useful tool in reducing leaf size and improving ramification and is superior to the practice of removing only apical meristems, but does cause more stress to the tree and slows development. It should be considered only after the tree has reached good development and only then on trees in good health, growing vigorously and in need of leaf reduction. Branch pruning should be undertaken after 5 or 6 leaves have formed . You can then cut back to 2 leaves.

Ficus b. is suitable for most bonsai styles, although I cannot imagine it as a literati. Since they air layer so easily, a very nice bonsai can be started by buying a standard type tree at a nursery or discount store, then layering off the top. I’ve seen plants with larger than 2 inch trunks for around $20. Air layered trees will exhibit more basal flare and more even roots than those grown from cuttings. Pot selection can be important. Shallow pots will also encourage basal flare. Always select pots that will drain well.

Fertilizer recommendations vary depending on the trees state of development. Since I am able to maintain high light levels in my indoor growing area, I use a hi-nitrogen fertilizer like Miracid all year. A more balanced blend of 20-20-20 might be a choice for good conditions indoors, but only when the tree is actively putting on growth. A torpid tree, or one that is weak, should not be aggressively fertilized. Wait instead, until the tree shows signs of new growth.

Ficus trees can suffer from some pests. Most common are scale, followed closely by mites, then mealies. I have always had good luck with neem oil as a preventative and fixative. Scale and mealies can be picked by hand, and a full strength rubbing alcohol spritz will kill them in the crawler stage as well. Malathion should not be used on Ficus, and if root mealies are the problem, a systemic insecticide is in order. I have not had to combat soil insects, but neem oil, used as a soil drench, should be effective here as well.

Ficus leaves can tell you much about the condition of your tree. I will close with a little chart of how leaves respond to some common problems:

stunted, black, or deformed buds..................................................................need more light

limp leaves...........................................................................................................need water

buds fall off................................................................................too much water or too cold

leaves turn pale green, then yellow...................................................severely underwatered

yellow leaves..............................................................................dry roots, needs more light

falling green leaves..........................................................too much water, insufficient light

pale leaves.....................................................................................................needs fertilizer

yellow leaves with green veins......................................................................iron deficiency

brown or transparent spots...........fertilizer burns (flush soil, allow to dry before watering)

mottled yellow color.....................................................................................pest infestation

great information folks. thank you so much.
debi z and franklin