Can Miracle Grow Potting Soil be Used for Seed Starting?

Columbia Heights, MN(Zone 4a)

I'm just about to take the plunge into the wonderful, I hope, world of seed starting. I'm hoping that I don't have to go out and buy a different soil just for seed starting. Also, I did buy some of those jiffy pots. Are they better to use with some seeds than others? I know for sure I want to do Morning Glories and Black Eyed Susan Vines in potting mix and plan to use those little peat pots. Any advice? I have been trying to keep up on all the peroxide threads.

Some of the seeds I'll be trying are:

Peony Poppies
Pansy
Paper Daisy
Campanula
Larkspur
Catchfly
Lisianthus
Petunia
Lavatera
Foxglove
Gloriosa Daisy
Verbena
Salvia
Torenia
Mirabilis
Cosmos
Marigold
New Guinea Impatiens
White Lace Flower and
Coreopsis

Should I soak all these?

west Houston, TX(Zone 9a)

I would not recommend it--I use seed germinating soil.

I've often grown the following and never had to pre-soak them:

Larkspur
Petunia
Foxglove
Gloriosa Daisy
Verbena
Salvia
Torenia
Cosmos
Marigold
New Guinea Impatiens
Coreopsis

Debbie

Missouri City, TX(Zone 9a)

I agree, wouldn't bother soaking those seeds. I usually just follow the directions on the packets. Also don't recommend using MG soil- better to use seed starting mix.

Chewelah, WA(Zone 5a)



This message was edited May 28, 2010 5:22 PM

Eastlake, OH(Zone 5a)

Miracle Potting soil has fertilizer in it, and is not a sterile soil. It is too heavy and will cause the seeds to rot. By using a seed starting mix, it is not heavy like potting soil. You will get better germination and less damping off. Seed starting mix is easier for the seedlings to grow in, and to transplant in also. Seed starting mix is a sterile soil for starting seeds.

Union City, CA(Zone 9b)

Go for the seed starting mix .
Besides MG will fire anyone who smokes at home and probably don't want smokers buying their product .
Last year I switched from MG orchid food to another brand . [ schules - sp ]

Columbia Heights, MN(Zone 4a)

Thanks all. Any recommendation on a a seed starting soil brand or doesn't it matter as long as it is sterile and does not contain fertilize?

Cincinnati (Anderson, OH(Zone 6a)


BTW, beaker, Miracle gro makes a sterile seed starting mix, too.

Googling around we found out Scott Corporation owns Miracle Gro and Scott's, and, in addition, makes and markets about 10 different labels/brands of seed starting mix. (There's another thread about Scott's/Miracle Gro going on right now with more info.)

Many people (myself included ) also use Pro Mix products with great success. Pro Mix has a seed starting mix, too. Available at HD and Lowes and most other places.

I did use Miracle Gro potting soil for my Wintersowing project this year because the wintersown.org website said you can use almost anything to start seeds using that method--including Miracle Gro with ferilizer (and I had a big bag of it, too). If you use the Wintersowing method, they say you don't have to worry about damp-off issues which has always been my bugaboo. Here is the link to the Wintersowing forum FYI

http://davesgarden.com/forums/f/coldsow/all/

Your list of seeds looks like a great list for winter sowing.

Let us know what you decide to use and do and how it turns out.

And don't forget pics!

Columbia Heights, MN(Zone 4a)

I think winter sowing is something I need to work up to. I have so many questions about what would work in our zone and then there's the issue of where would I put them. I did buy a little freestanding greenhouse that I'm going to use to harden plants in this spring and I'm nervous about that. I've got a great garden, but I've always purchased my annuals and perennials. Seed is new to me. It's just becoming too darn expensive every year.

I have some lisianthus seed I'm going to try and I understand that's one of the more difficult seeds to grow. Is there a thread anywhere that discusses this particular plant?

Cincinnati (Anderson, OH(Zone 6a)


beaker-- you can do a search for lisianthus on the Plant Files or the Forums and you will probably find some info on lisianthus seed starting.

If you click around on this Plant File page you should find some info http://davesgarden.com/pf/search.php?search_text=lisianthus&images_prefs=both&Search=Search

The other site I use for good germination information is Tom Clothier's-- you can google for that website.



Eastlake, OH(Zone 5a)

beaker,
It does not make any difference on what the brand name is as long as it is a sterile seed starting mix. Here is a website with some tips on starting seeds. http://www.plantea.com/seedstart.htm?source=overture&OVRAW=seed%20germination&OVKEY=seed%20germination&OVMTC=standard#raise

"Good Luck and Keep Gardening!"

Yukon, OK(Zone 7b)

beaker_ch, here is a good website for info on Lisianthus. http://www.dontveter.com/howtogrow/eustgran.html

Lisianthus is one of my most favorite annuals, and I've tried growing from seed before. Wow, you talk about sloooooooooowwwwwwwwww. (I finally gave up after 3 months, and my seedlings were only about an inch tall) I think I read somewhere that you needed to start them 6 months before you were to set them outside. Good luck with them! And let me know how they do.

Columbia Heights, MN(Zone 4a)

Yikes! 6 months? That's not what the seed package says.. I'm rethinking Lisianthus. I nice pot from Linders will do just as well.

I bought soil tonight and all they had at HD was Scotts. They really don't have much of anything there right now. IT's kind of sad. All sorts of people walking up and down the rows looking and looking and looking, but not finding anything. I filled up my cart. I bought four packages of those 5 foot bamboo sticks to go with my plastic disk handy teepee trellis makers. 4 4gallon pots, some more jiffy pots, and chains for my shop lights (I need longer ones). So, I think I'm all set to go. I'm not starting my first seeds til mid March.

Thanks for all the advice. I'll probably be back at the first sign of trouble (LOL).

Raleigh, NC(Zone 7b)

Hi Beaker- I grow annuals for a living and am always starting seeds. I use a peat moss based soiless mix that has a starter fertiler in it. I would not worry about the fert in the soil because it is a small amount and I alway start fertilizing the seedlings when they show a true leaf-although with a mild amt of fert (about 75-100 ppm). The keys to germinating seeds is warmth and moisture-use hot water to mist the seeds with, and use plastic to cover the containers so you keep the seeds wet. When you use cold water, it takes about 6-7 hrs to get the soil temp back up to 70 degrees. When the seeds germinate and start to show the first leaves you can uncover and back off the water some and you will avoid damping off. The more roots/leaves the less water, but don't let the soil dry out totally. Lots of sun helps too.

Cincinnati (Anderson, OH(Zone 6a)


Hi, tigerlily-- good new information--thanks for posting. I hadn't thought to water with hot water to keep the soil temperature up.

And welcome to DG! We look forward to many more tips from you on how to grow annuals--

please post some pics of your spring 'crop' on the annuals forum and please don't forget to 'introduce' your self on the Welcome Mat forum.

We're always looking for new ideas! t.

Winchester, KY(Zone 6a)

I had Miracle Gro potting soil on hand anyway, so I sterilized it and used it for my first few batches of seed with no problems. I prefer a lighter mix with more peat, but had no problem transplanting. I'm not a fan of Miracle Gro products, but at off times of year there's not a big selection to choose from here. ProMix has always been my favorite though.
Neal

Eastlake, OH(Zone 5a)

Beaker,
I have a mini greenhouse also that I use. I start my seedlings in the basemnt with grow lights. About the first week of April, I put up the mini greenhouse, and put a portable electic heater on the bottom shelf. You can buy them that are digitaly controled. They only drawback, is that you have to be around during the day to open once the sun starts shinning on it in mid April. Need to open it to keep temperature under control. The sun warms it up also, that is why I am always out there. " Good luck, and Keep Gardening!"

Columbia Heights, MN(Zone 4a)

Did you guys see the picture that gal posted with Christmas lights in a milk crate with her seedlings on top? They looked great and were just sitting in a window. If I can make it past the damping off stage, I think everything will be OK.

And I hope it doesn't take too much babysitting, because I'm gone about 12 hours a day when I'm working. But thanks for the additional info. I've always watered all my indoor plants with warm water. I do think I'll have to go out and buy a spritzer.

Elmira, NY(Zone 6a)

I have been using Miracle Grow for the first time this year for potting up seedlings and plants (I have always used ProMix, but they didn't have any). I did not know it wasn't sterile, but that explains a LOT. Some of my plants have gotten some kind of virus, and it is clearly a lot heavier and slower to dry out than ProMix. I have managed to overwater most everything, and I never have that problem with the ProMix. Glad I read this thread. I will dump the rest of the Miracle Grow outside.

Lewisville, MN(Zone 4a)

We use Sunshine #6 for seed starting, #1 for growing. Then dilute the #1 with peat moss for baskets. We mix a time release fertilizer with the #1 & the basket mix. (You would not beleive the baskets!) Ask ant of our customers what they look like in August-September.
The big thing about germination is good soil-to-seed contact. Also not drying out. I would not recommend the jiffy pots, they dry out very fast. It's like putting a plant in a pail of sand & not watering!
For a small amount of seed, the best thing is a gallon milk jug bottom.
Cut off the jug about 1¼" high. Drill a dozen 1/32" holes in the bottom for drainage. Use a waterproof marker & number the trays, then you can record the number & whats in that tray. Fill to the top with soil mix. Water untill saturated. Sprinkle the seeds on top or set in rows,(larger seed), dust with soil mix & spray water over to moisten. Slide the tray into a baggie & tie shut. It will stay moist enough until the plants start growing.
You must remove from the bag as soon as growth starts & get it under light to keep things from getting leggy. Transplant into 4-packs or pots as soon as plants get soom true leaves. This is important step, to small containers make terrible plants.
We have used this method for 20 years. Wash the trays & store for another year. We are still using some of the originals.
As far as seed soaking & such. Mostly experience & research.
Some need light, some dark, freeze for certain number of days, or refridgerate. We have compiled a book of what to do. Also germination temperature is important. Oh, did I mention damping off ?
A small fan blowing across the plants helps with that.
Good Luck,
Bernie

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