This is a draceana- don't know the cultivar. I've had it about 13 yrs and it is over 6 ft tall. As you can see I have almost killed it by overwatering- at least I think it's from too much water- LOL!
If I cut it way back and repotted it in drier soil would it grow back? Or should I just toss it in the compost heap?
another shot ....
Last one. It has a little bit of new growth on it....
I would first cut it back to less than a foot or so in height, then repot it in new soil (the brown leaf tips suggest that the plant has gotten too much fertilizer or water). The plant should resprout from the base. You may be able to root the cuttings (from the pruning) to form new plants. Good Luck!
THANKS lorien! I'll do it tomorrow.
If you're serious about saving the plant, I would:
Depot and remove all soil from roots. Prune back rotted roots until only viable tissues remain. These steps are important because soil and rotted roots are host to the anaerobic fungi that caused the rot initially. Then, I would repot in 100% perlite. Oxygen is your ally in combating root rot. It kills the anaerobic organisms that digest roots. Perlite is extremely oxygen-rich because of it's excellent porosity and will provide a temporary but very healthy root environment.
After repotting in perlite. Place the pot in a shallow pan filled with a solution of 1 quart water with 1/4 cup 3% H2O2 added (H2O2 is hydrogen peroxide. Buy over counter at any supermarket or drug store). Scoop water from the pan and pour through the perlite repeatedly until you're sure it's completely saturated. This method is better than immersing the whole pot, as the perlite tends to float.
H2O2 has an extra O atom (compared to H2O) in an unstable arrangement. It's the extra atom that makes it useful in horticultural applications. Generally, we're not concerned with aerobic forms of bacteria normally occurring in container media or on roots, but rot fungi thrives in anaerobic conditions.
Since H2O2 is an unstable molecule, it breaks down easily. When it does, a single O- atom and a molecule of water is released. This O- atom is extremely reactive and will quickly attach itself to either another O- atom forming stable O2, or attack the nearest organic molecule. Many disease causing organisms and spores are killed by O. The free O H2O2 releases is extremely effective at this. H2O2 can help eliminate existing infections and help prevent future ones. The free O atom can destroy dead organic material and fungi that are rotting and spreading diseases.
When new growth appears, repot in a well drained soil & begin an appropriate fertilizer regimen. It is not necessary to prune back the top at this time. It could actually be counterproductive if there are any living leaf or stem tissues capable of photosynthesis.
Al
Thanks so much Al! Keep your fingers crossed. I'll let everyone know how it's doing.
Today I worked on my plant. The bottom soil wasnt wet at all and the roots didnt appear to be rotted either so I just added fresh dirt. I trimmed off the brown tips and cut down the tall stem. I hated to b/c it was over 6 ft tall but it was mostly dead.
Am hoping for the best!
Al - that was very interesting and very informative. Can that be used on any plant? What other uses of H2O2 are there when it comes to gardening?
Sorry Anita - I forgot about this thread.
H2O2 can be used sort of like liquid air in soils that lack appropriate aeration or retain too much water. In compacted soils or soils that are just plain poorly constructed and remain soggy for extended periods, H2O2 in the watering water can help supply missing O2 to roots until water in the perched water table can be used and some aeration returns to the soil. The benefit is more O2 to roots & the effect described above - it kills anaerobic bacteria.
I grow lots of bonsai and pre-bonsai material under lights in winter. I really don't like to repot tropicals or sub-tropicals until they are about to begin a growth spurt. In MI, that translates to late Jun or Jul. Sometimes I get lazy about repotting cuttings or other plants I might have received in an inferior soil and try to winter them over anyway. When I see signs these plants are struggling, it's always soil-related. I never hesitate to add H2O2 to the water. It makes a significant/noticable difference. In fact, this year, I've been using it on all I grow indoors at the rate of 1 tbsp (1/2 oz) per qt/liter which = 2 oz/gal. Again, this is 3% strength product I'm using.
H2O2 is just H2O with an extra atom of oxygen loosely attached.
Al
Thanks Al
