Friend or Foe #5

Fritch, TX(Zone 6b)

by georgia you've got it!

These predacious bugs suck body fluids from prey, such as small to medium sized armyworms, earworms, rootworm and cucumber beetle adults and other soft bodied insects.


i want more of these guys :-)

Spokane Valley, WA(Zone 5b)

*whistles for Night_Bloom to step away from the porch light 'cause it's too early for the good moths to be fried*

hehehe... hope you don't remember what you said you were gonna post a pic of in yesterday's marathon chat session (though it sure was fun chatting with you). EEYYOOUU! ;-)

This message was edited Sep 15, 2005 7:57 PM

Houston, TX(Zone 9b)

Okay, so what's the least destructive way to get rid of the leaf footed bug? These are too big for my squish method (have some unwritten rule about what's too big to squish). Prefer not to kill off the good bugs that I have managed to get. Hubby said rubbing alcohol, but I don't know where he got that. The pics were taken on a pepper plant that is setting fruit, so I have to take that into consideration.

HELP!!!

Thanks.

Linden, VA(Zone 6a)

For bigger ones where the squish factor isn't too appealing, I grab a leg, put them under the edge of my shoe, and crush.

Burleson, TX(Zone 8a)

Wearing gloves, I put one hand on both sides of them and SMACK! They fly so you have to get them from both sides.

What is this thing? I can't tell from Bugguide whether it's a grasshopper or a katydid or something else.

Thumbnail by konkreteblond
Los Angeles, CA(Zone 9a)

Konkreteblond: that guy looks like he's in the leafhopper family to me. (Cicadellidae) At least that's what I've always called them. We get those guys here in Los Angeles too.

Burleson, TX(Zone 8a)

I thought leafhoppers were small tho, and he's very big. He's about the size of a large grasshopper, 3-4 inches or so.

Fritch, TX(Zone 6b)

i think he is some kind of a grasshopper or locust! feed him to the guineas! LOL

if you can take a bowl of soapy water with you, just shake the branches and hope they fall in. ihave heard leaf hoppers fly away. so might be better to use a pepper or rhubarba leaf spray. i am sure i have posted the reipe, somehwere??? it will either kill them or deter them from nibbling...

another good one is soda oil soap (1 tsp each) in 1 gallon water, spray on them and plants. insecticidal soap or castile soap is best...

Burleson, TX(Zone 8a)

I think I found it....Scudderia-Scudder's Bush Katydid. I think it's a member of the grasshopper family, just not quite as ugly. I think they eat plants tho. I haven't bothered the few that I've seen. (no guineas here! lol)

Fritch, TX(Zone 6b)

they drown well too! ;-P try some kerosene...

Griffin, GA(Zone 8a)

shuggins - Tutti Frutti is correct, your first bug is an assassin bug.

But I didn't forget about the picture that I was going to post - Hee - actually, I'm postng two.

Warning! Don't view these picture close to breakfast time. In chat I mentioned land planaria. Here's what they look like. Land Planaria are flatworms that came to this country I think from Asia somewhere. They munch on earthworms when they can catch them, and I was fortunate enough to catch one in the act of doing just that. Unfortunately for you guys, I got pictures of it. They are a little graphic, so you have been warned.

Thumbnail by Night_Bloom
Griffin, GA(Zone 8a)

And in this one, I disturbed the land planaria a little so that I could get a better shot of its spatulate-shaped head - which kind of reminds me of a garden edging tool (something I don't use myself, but Hubby has one hanging in the shed).

Edited to add: and as for katydids, I kind of like them. They are the critters that you hear singing in the trees and bushes at night. Daytime to early evening = cicadas which make a constant buzzing noise. Night time = katydids which make a more "broken" sound that some loosely describe as 'katy did, katy did" hence their name.

This message was edited Sep 17, 2005 4:12 AM

Thumbnail by Night_Bloom
Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

Oh, COOL! Yeah, the photo was a little graphic, but that's the biggest flatworm I've ever seen! You got a great shot of its head, too.

I like katydids too, although I probably would not like them if they occurred in such huge numbers as the grasshoppers we have this year. They are such a pretty new-leaf green, and they do liven up the dusk chorus.

Fritch, TX(Zone 6b)

oh, yeh, grpahic for sure! but you warned me LOL great pics, you lucky dog you!

when we catch g-hoppers for feed, I usually leave the katydids alone. But today it was a real chore, so they got one :-(

to be sure they are not in short number here though. seems nothing is!

Spokane Valley, WA(Zone 5b)

Those are some pretty funky pics, NB! *gulp*

Congratulations on the "find" and thanks for sharing it; they're rather interesting creatures. I actually read up a little bit on the land planaria after you mentioned it, and it seems they can get as long as 12"?! Those are certainly much larger than the water-based ones we used in Biology I in high school.

I just hope you folks keep them corraled to your part of the States, 'cause I don't want anything going after my earthworms (except perhaps an occasional robin).

Oh, and remind me to never do a plant trade with you. lol

SE Arky, United States(Zone 8a)

I finally got a photo of the horrid black things that are eating my blossoms. I've never seen this disgusting bug before, but heard it was seasonal, but do not have it identified. Will call the co-op tomorrow but hope you guys will know what it is and what to do about it, it is destroying my plants. Thanks!!!!!!

Thumbnail by SherryLike
Fritch, TX(Zone 6b)

oh, my, that is AWFUL!!! i haven't a clue, hope you find out soon... have you tried spraying a soap on them? perhaps even a spray from the water hose will help?

Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

Not that I know what it is, but does it have lots of little short legs? And a rounder head? I think I pulled one of these out of a tomato yesterday (yuk... but he didn't eat much!). I second Tamera's suggestion to try insecticidal soap &/or pyrethrum spray... that's my first line of defense when a plant gets infested with something.

Fritch, TX(Zone 6b)

And if you don't have quick access to any, try som dish soap, oil and baking soda (1 tsp each) in a gallon of water.

I haven't tried it yet, but hear Dr. Bronner's castile liquid soap is very effective.

Another trick, hold a bowl of soapy water under the plant, or place on the gorund, and SHAKE those suckers off! they will die in the water..

SE Arky, United States(Zone 8a)

I have done everything. They do not die easily and they swarm, some fly, some bite. I've tried neem, Sevin, cutter for the yard, soap does ZERO, unless it's foam and after I hold them under, one by one (slight exaggeration) they do die. Today i'm using Raid again, and going back to get more, I hate sprays. The remind me of a flea, but they do not have a hard body, I can see no feet/legs on them, they appear to crawl, when they fly, their wings look like gnats. I'm fixing to call the county extension. Thanks, if you think of anything, please advise...oh, I did soapy water in a bowl, as well as beer and wine...

Fritch, TX(Zone 6b)

oh, that's crazy, they must be leaf hoppers of some kind, or a nymph of something? let us know!

SE Arky, United States(Zone 8a)

I've talked to two county agents, different counties, one says: Wester Flower Thrip and the other says, Rove Beetles. After Katrina hit, I found what appeared to be black dirt on the leaves of many plants. The county agents agree that the black dirt was eggs or how the bugs were carried, and the wind came from Oklahoma, when the hurricane winds twisted around Arky and threw the awful bugs every place. Now why the agents don't agree is beyond me, but neither of the photos they've shown me looks like the bug I have. They both agreed that either bug could be treated with orthene or malithon - I bought orthene before talking to the 2nd agent, and it works but, of course, scorches the calyx and totally melts the blossom, bye - bye to the best part of our growing season. I'll live over it but I'd really like some practical advice as to how to prevent the spread and avoid them next year. Everyone in my area has them, but most gardeners don't have 'fall crops', like my brugs, when fall is the best time of the year for me. BTW, I've had a couple of people say that we have these bugs every year at this time, from the middle of Sept, until the 1st of Oct. I have NEVER seen them before and i was right here all the time. Oh, well. Anything you guys can can tell me will be sincerely appreciated. I have never seen a bug as difficult to kill...

Fritch, TX(Zone 6b)

egad! wish i could be of more help! :-(

Griffin, GA(Zone 8a)

Sherrylike - It sounds more like thrips to me. Most rove beetles that I am aware of are predators and/or do not harm plants. Now I checked my pest management handbook for thrips, and malathion, Sevin, and pyrethroids were suggested. I was going to suggest imidicloprid - a systemic - which would be less harmful to non-targets, but my book has the systemic (Bayer Advanced) product listed for thrips as disulfoton 1%. From what I've heard this can be nasty stuff, so I'm not comfortable with suggesting it. I'm not sure why imidicloprid wasn't suggested for thrips too, but it could be because they aren't true sucking insects I don't believe. I admit my knowledge on thrips is rusty, because in our area, they aren't as much of a problem. (My problem that's hard to get rid of is flea beetles.)

My suggestion would be to go with the pyrethroids - they are the less nasty of the choices. There are many kinds of pyrethroids - your extension agent can help you, too - bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, cypermethrin, etc. Check the labels of various Ortho, Green Light, Dexol, and KGro products.

Meanwhile, I'll check on the immidicloprid and see if this is a possibility at all, because a systemic like that - if it works on thrips - would provide preventative control without harming any bees or butterflies that visit your flowers.

Another suggestion would be to see if you could find any resistant varieties of flowers or varieties that flower ealier. My garden insects book shows that the main damage to flowers is scarring. if you can find varieties that only scar a little, this might be preferable to the whole flower getting scorched by the treatment.

I would also suggest that at the end of the season you clean up any plant parts that might have fallen and any leaf debris that can provide harborage around your flowers.


I know we need a new thread, but I think I'm going to wait until tomorrow night to start it.

Fritch, TX(Zone 6b)

flea beetles: sprinkle dried catnip around area, or grow some in a pot and put there. Lat year i just obught a cat toy at the store and used the contents, it REALLY worked!

somewhere in a companion planting thread is a list of other plants that deter the flea beetle. I think artmesias are among tham.

SE Arky, United States(Zone 8a)

Ding, ding, ding!!!!! You win the prize Night_Bloom!!! I've been to see three county agents and each one said a different thing, thrips, rove beetle and another beetle, I forget and they all said to use something different. So, I got in my SUV and drove over the MS river bridge to visit my garden guru, we've known each other for 43 years. He took one look and said THRIPS, and walked straight over and picked up a bottle of Thiodan to spray, and told me to use di - syston, and water it in well and spray again if I don't get them all, which I won't. My blossoms are gone, but I cannot stand these thrips. Oh, and he told me to get some Code Red Mountain Dew, and mix 4 tablespoons Thiodan per gallon, and add 1/2 can Code Red, per gallon. I thought I'd never find the Code Red, sold out every place I stopped. This guy makes his living landscaping and has an unbelievable place, and has never told me wrong. I'm going to do it when it cools off. The county agents have all called and they approved his recipe, and said that it should get the rove beetles too, should there be any. It just makes me sick to lose all these blossoms. Oh, they all agree that the first cool snap we have and these dudes will be gone. Of course that is likely a while away - last year, our first freeze was Dec 15. Thanks for your help, I'll let you know how it goes...

Griffin, GA(Zone 8a)

Sherrylike - One of our professors in extension who gives advice to commercial growers in our state suggested a Bayer Advanced product - but darn I forgot the name. I think it was Bayer Advanced System (I have it written down at work, so I'll double check). It's a combination of imidicloprid (which is only marginal on thrips) and a pyrethroid which fiinishes the job. If your other stuff doesn't work, you might want to try this. It should be available in most garden centers.

The di- syston isn't disulfoton is it? If it is (and this is in many products including some Bayer Advanced), be careful. That stuff can be nasty around people and pets. I generally don't suggest it, because of that (even though it is supposed to work).

My gardens are all about the critters usually, so one can't really call my gardens "amazing". Full of humming birds, butterflies, bees, and other assorted insects (I have quite a few preying mantises around this year as well, though they like my porchlight for easy pickens at night), but you'll find a few chomped flowers and leaves about - heh. To me, my garden is still lovely though - and my lantanas are healthy as can be this year - but not likely to everyone's taste.

And thanks for the advice on flea beetles, Tamara Faye. I'll have to try that next year.

I know I said I'd start a new thread, but I'm gonna put it off until tomorrow again - sorry bout that.

SE Arky, United States(Zone 8a)

Thanks, Night_Bloom, yet again! I used the Thiodan, with Code Red Mountain Dew and it worked like a charm and I have a lovely, happy garden this am and the critter population, with exception of the thrips, is thriving. I'm mindful of good bugs, especially bees, butterflies, praying mantis, spiders, moths, lady bugs, hummingbirds, and other small birds as well as several houses for Martins, etc. My pal told me that Lady Beetles are excellent for thrips, so I will make an attempt to import some, next spring, if I cannot find them this time of the year. The di syston has worked here previously for mealy bugs and other bugs I've forgotten, on any number 'antique' camellias, bringing them back to good health, without damage to people or pets, we have LOTS of pets, including chickens and lots of birds. I am very careful when I've applied it, I have three inch mulch, and I rake it away from the plant, scratching the soil, and apply the granules. Then I add new soil, topped with ground mulch, then topped with cypress or cedar mulch, going higher than the three inches, then water the entire thing in. I'm a 25 year plus Golden Retriever breeder and animals are a big part of my life, so their protection and good health is more important than my garden and I sincerely appreciate your caution with regard to safety. We live in the MS river delta, 6 miles from the river, and unfortunately toxic farming chemicals are sprayed by planes/helicoptor, it's a wonder we don't glow, whew!!! I must add that I HATED the Orthene, suggested by one of the county agents, an aerosol spray - everything the spray touched burned to a crisp, I returned the two unused cans and I would not recommend it to anyone for anything. Thanks to all of you again, it is wonderful to have nice friends like all of you guys, willing to help me walk through these my bug woes!!!!!!!

Fritch, TX(Zone 6b)

hoorah!

SE Arky, United States(Zone 8a)

Thanks, so much, TamaraFaye!!! I have never has such good luck with such a horrible problem. Besides getting rid of the thrips, it did not damage my plants, amazing, to me anyway, since that Orthene scorched and burned everything it touched, I do not like that stuff, and I really don't like aerosols either...

Griffin, GA(Zone 8a)

I'm glad to hear that things went well SherryLike, and I will definately take your warning about Orthene into consideration. I haven't yet used it myself. In general, the only insect spray I use is pyrtherins (in "pump" form), and those are mild as far as plants go - and not residual, so little harm to non-target critters unless they are in the path of the spray.

Unfortunately, I do often have to use something heavier for disease control two or three times a year. The clay soil and often damp weather here in spring/early summer can kill your veggie plants quickly with disease if you aren't careful - I lost my potatoes last year, getting only one small batch before the plants died. So generally I watch carefully and spray at the first signs of disease coming.


Time for a new thread. here's the link... http://davesgarden.com/forums/t/546705/ .

Los Angeles, CA(Zone 9a)

Hi NB and all. Check out this cool little scene I came upon this evening on my plumeria. Is this a momma spider guarding her eggs? What kind of spider is it? Is she friend or foe? Should I let the eggs hatch? There are three pics.

Thumbnail by margu
Los Angeles, CA(Zone 9a)

another pic

Thumbnail by margu
Los Angeles, CA(Zone 9a)

..and another

Thumbnail by margu
Los Angeles, CA(Zone 9a)

Oh, I forgot to add that she reared up into defensive pose when I got too close!

Ijamsville, MD(Zone 6b)

Very cool pics! Don't know the spider but NB has a new thread if she doesn't reply here.
http://dg.davesgarden.com/forums/t/546705/

-Kim

Griffin, GA(Zone 8a)

margu - She's a Green Lynx spider (family Oxyopidae, genus Peucetia). She's harmless, and a good predator.

Back to the new thread I go.

SE Houston (Hobby), TX(Zone 9a)

Did ya'll ever identify koncreteblond's ORANGE ants? Milkweed or Leaffooted Stinkbug nymphs? I have the exact same things on my maters...

Burleson, TX(Zone 8a)

My orange ants....I forgot all about them but do know now they aren't milkweed bugs because unfortunately I've seen the small milkweed bugs since then. I think I remember deciding they were a Leaf footed bug nymphs.

...yep, just Googled them and saw a pic that looked like mine. I didn't see many LF bugs last year. Yay!

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/galveston/p&dc_12.htm

Post a Reply to this Thread

Please or sign up to post.
BACK TO TOP