Christmas Cactus advice needed

Lake Toxaway, NC(Zone 7a)

My Christmas cactus has been around for several years. I have repotted it at least once. However, it has now gotten quite big. I noticed, when I check the soil for dampness, that the roots are all along the top of the soil. It has even lost a few leaves and didn't bloom well this year. I plan to try to root some babies this spring but what can I do about the Mother plant? This picture is from a year ago.

Thumbnail by woodspirit1
Poughkeepsie, NY(Zone 6a)

If the roots are near the top you're not watering deep enough. Water until it starts dripping out the bottom of the pot. That's a real beauty!

Sun Lakes, AZ(Zone 9b)

I'd say it could stand a larger pot.

Lake Stevens, WA(Zone 8a)

I think so too.

Lake Stevens, WA(Zone 8a)

However, I would wait until spring-Christmas Cactus likes a "rest" period after flowering, then starts growing again. That would be a good time to go up a pot size. It looks super healthy.

Lake Toxaway, NC(Zone 7a)

Ok, I will do that again. I am already watering more deeply. I still don't know if I could actually divide the plant. Anyone?

Lake Stevens, WA(Zone 8a)

Not sure about dividing, I have never tried!

Lake Toxaway, NC(Zone 7a)

welll, thanks for all the help. The plant looks perkier already. I fertilized with a little Miracle grow and some bone meal to make it bloom, but it didn't do well this year. Maybe next year after transplanting it.

This message was edited Jan 18, 2015 1:27 AM

Sun Lakes, AZ(Zone 9b)

You can divide it if you want to, but it is not necessary if the pot size is big enough for the whole plant. After the flowers are done, you could show a photo here of the plant near the soil line so we could talk about dividing it.

Lake Toxaway, NC(Zone 7a)

OK, will do.

Prescott, AZ

I'm still trying to get my first Christmas cactus cuttings started, so I'm no expert but...I'd like to suggest that the plant may be root-bound in the pot. When you do re-pot you may need to deal with problem roots rather than stems. Any suggestions from you experts out there on the best way to do that? I have recently read about "box cutting" the root ball on outdoor nursery container plants that have become root-bound, I don't know how it would work on an indoor plant. Box cutting involves using a sharp knife to trim the entire root ball into a box shape, it takes off those circling and excess roots, would give some room for fresh soil and new roots if the plant has to go back in the same container because of size constraints. Just curious about if that would work, I'm planning to give it a try next time I'm dealing with a root-bound plant but haven't yet.

Reno, NV(Zone 6b)

I root prune my plants every couple years when I re-pot. It keeps them in check so they don't take over the entire house and re-vitalizes their root system. House plants, because we water, feed and pamper, don't need the enormous rooting system that a tree growing in your yard would. Outdoor plants have to search for nutrients and water. For indoor plants, everything is within easy reach.

I don't usually "box-cut" but I have on really big plants (such as my 25 year old Ficus tree) and plants that are really packed roots. Remove the plant from its pot and shake off loose dirt. Work your fingers through the roots and loosen them from the root ball. If you are re-potting into the same pot, cut off enough root to have an inch of dirt all the way around the root ball.

Most Cactus grow surface roots - in an area with a very small amount of rainfall, having roots barely under the surface that spread out several feet is very beneficial. Deep roots, except to hold the plant up, are not. Also, cactus are water pigs. They don't know when to spot drinking as their only problem is getting enough to drink. That's way its so easy to over-water cactus.

Transplant in the spring after they have actively started to grow again. That will lessen the shock of transplant. Also, the best way to start those pieces that fall off the Christmas/Thanksgiving/Easter cactus is to firm them onto the soil surface and ignore them.

Daisy

Lake Toxaway, NC(Zone 7a)

Well, I haven't been very clear about it's life cycle. It sits outside during the warm weather. It has partial shade and gets either rain on it or my DH waters it while sitting in the swing at the pond. Then in the winter I bring it in where I have had trouble with it this year. So, here's the plan (I think). I am going to cut back leaves in the spring and try to root some. I'm going to lift the plant out and trim roots back if needed. I'm going to repot with fresh soi and maybe l will use a bigger pot.. I usually add Black Kow (a composted manure) in with the potting soil. Is this OK to do with a Christmas Cactus?
That you all for helping. My cactus is like a pet to me, although I haven't named it. I really want to save it have it do well. I will keep you posted later.

Reno, NV(Zone 6b)

My suggestions on root cutting and repotting were very general.

Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera sp) are epiphytic meaning they don't live rooted in soil but find their homes up in the trees in spots that catch dead falling leaves. Their natural "potting soil" would be very loose and organic in nature. Some cactus mixes (the ones used for Palm trees) would be perfect but any potting soil is fine as long as it drains quickly. Most plants that start to fail are having soil problems - too much salt buildup, too much water, potting soil that drains too slowly. They really need to be repotted every couple years but the pot needs only be big enough to support the plant. Keep it moist during the growing season.

Christmas Cactus need a resting period in the fall. They come out of that resting period by blooming at Christmas. To induce bud set in your home, give them cool temperatures (55 - 60 degrees) and long nights (12 to 14 hours) and cut back on the water keeping it barely damp. The easiest way to do this is to leave them in a place that does not have lights turning on and off in the evening and stays cool. The plant will do the rest. Mine lives on an unheated sunporch (zone 9).

When you repot, I would skip the manure.

My only other thought is that it is staying too warm during its dormant period (Oct or Nov thru Feb or Mar).

The pot size is fine unless the plant is tipping over but new soil would probably benefit. Don't do anything until the plant starts growing again.

Break off full leaves to start new plants, also in the spring. If you see leaves growing little roots at the joints, those are the leaves you want. They are usually the older leaves so you might end up with branches to root. Lay your cuttings on the soil surface and push them down a little bit so the joints make contact with the soil and wait. Don't over water; keep them on the dry side. My most successful rootings have been when a branch falls off my plant and lands in a pot that gets very little water.

I'm attaching a photo of my Thanksgiving Cactus (same genus, same care). Its done blooming and the flowers are dropping off. The branches are about 3 feet long.

Hope you aren't too confused.

Daisy

Thumbnail by DaisyPlantLady
Lake Toxaway, NC(Zone 7a)

My branches are not that long. Finding a cool place is hard . I have a small house and it is heated throughout. I could put them in the greenhouse, under the shelving but it's colder than 60*, perhaps down to 45*.Lots of possibilities, I guess. Thanks for all the help.

Reno, NV(Zone 6b)

You said you have had this plant for several years and the photo shows your plant in bloom. Have the circumstances you keep it in changed over the last year? How late in the season do you keep it outside before bringing it in? What are the low temps at that time?

I would say that 45 might be too cold but the greenhouse could be the transition to the house before it gets to cold there. I have two small ones that live in a heated greenhouse all year around and they do bloom on schedule so maybe the heat in the house part is not the problem. These plants need 12 to 14 hours of un-interrupted darkness a night to make them set buds. Have you moved it to a room where it gets more light at night?

Are you continuing to water like you did when it was actively growing during the summer? You should be keeping it barely damp this time of year. Is it in a draft from your heating system?

Is the overall health of the plant suffering or just didn't bloom this year? That is probably the most important question because you have made this plant happy in the past. Can you post more photos of what your plant looks like right now?

We need to discover why this plant, once happy, is suddenly not so.

Daisy

Lake Toxaway, NC(Zone 7a)

I keep it outside until it's time for frost. I see, from what you say, that it is getting too much light in the room where I have it, now.This is especially true because my DH is a nightowl and is up until 2 or 3 a.m. It is also close to a lit china cabinet.
So here's my plan: I have a half basement that is cool but not cold because we have our washer and dryer down there. The bathroom down there is dark with no windows. DH has a timer to turn on lights so he can set them to about 8 or 9 hours of light a day.This sounds like perfect conditions from what you say. Gonna move it today.

Reno, NV(Zone 6b)

Good luck! Keep me posted. I want to see photos next fall of a gorgeous blooming plant.

Daisy

Sun Lakes, AZ(Zone 9b)

I think 45º would be fine for it in your greenhouse. That seems like a great spot.

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