Weed Control in Iris Beds, 2011

Lewisville, MN(Zone 4a)

Little early for weeds here. Maybe by Mid April.
Thought it would be nice to start fresh as we are in a new year.
Maybe if talk about weeds early, they will leave us alone, LOL!

Bernie

We came from;
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1020576/

This message was edited Feb 19, 2011 7:32 PM

Thumbnail by CountryGardens
North of Atlanta, GA(Zone 8a)

OK. That was too much stuff to read and too confusing. I vote for a sticky note to identify what chemical would kill what (weeds, grass) and weather it would hurt the rhizomes and rank on what is strongest to least strongest, etc....

Lewisburg, KY(Zone 6a)

Hi, Bernie
What do you use to fertilize your iris this time of year? Or do you before they bloom.
Teresa

Thumbnail by bluegrassmom
Lewisville, MN(Zone 4a)

I haven't thought about that. I soil is so fertile, I've never fertilized flowers.

Big blizzard going today & tomorrow. Forecast, 20" of snow.

Ellerbe, NC(Zone 8a)


We are warming up nicely here in central North Carolina. No freeze forcast for the next 7 days. The daffodils are blooming. Iris are growing, some more than others. Can I fertilize yet? or should I wait for March like I usually do? How warm does the soil have to be before the fertilizer works?

Greensboro, NC(Zone 7a)

My daffs are greening up but no blooms as yet. Iris are starting to grow a bit and send up some fresh green. Of course they never die back much anyway with our weird temps:lol: I left a huge mat of fall debris/dead weeds over them also which I'll be ripping out next week. Will scratch in some Preen this season. Hoping to head off the clover and grassy type weeds early this year.

Watseka, IL(Zone 5a)

Grassy as all get out here.. I think I lost most of my beardeds. Its too early to tell.

Gainesville, TX

The weeds are awful in my unstructured wild cottage type beds. I have crab grass and bermuda and chickweed. I am happy to know about something to spray on top of all. I really don't like to use a pre-emergent as I have many plants that reseed each spring. I also have poisonous snakes( rattlers and copperheads and water moccasin) here and don't like to get over into the weedy beds in the summer.

The daffs are blooming here as we have had 60 to 70 for the last week, less than 2 weeks ago it was down to 7. Expect nighttime temp in mid 30s up to mid 50s daytime for the next couple of days.

I had a chance to save plants from an old heirloom garden this week. Now or never type of thing. I dug red texas yucca, siberian iris, tall beardeds, daylily, red spider lily, and a petite type of climbing ivy. I got several small digs of passion flower vine. I know most were not the proper time for transplant but we will not have another hard freeze this year and I got them back in the ground asap. It about killed me....too much, too soon after an idle winter on the sofa. Anyone had similar experiences? With what results? I save heirlooms from abandoned or land about to be cleared anytime I can.

There are thousands of daffs on the site just about to bloom I will have to get as soon as I can, same with more lycoris radicans (red spider lily). I am anxious to see what other dormants jump up as the ground warms more. I will have to move them in a hurry to save them. Only my old 68 yr body and a shovel and hand spade but the dirt there is the best I have ever seen in this area, black and crumbly and easy to dig.

Lewisburg, KY(Zone 6a)

I have one bed that is trouble badly with crabgrass/fescue. I think I have it all pulled in the Spring and by late August it is back full force. It could be that I am expanding into the hayfield area lol. I would love to know of a grass/weed killer that could be sprayed over young dls popping up. Preen doesn't work that well for me :(
Teresa

South Hamilton, MA

Some people have reccommended 'Over the Top' which supposedly kills grass & not plants. We have not tried it as yet.

Melfa, VA(Zone 8a)

I pulled out every weed in my plant/flower beds last fall. When I went over to our new house last month, my holding beds were completely covered and there was chickweed profusely growing in every other one! As soon as it is warm enough for mr to get out...another week like this one would be fabulous! ...without rain/snow, I am going back to weed. I really need something that will kill the weeds w/o killing my trees/shrubs/flowers and keep the crap out at the same time.
Deb

Watseka, IL(Zone 5a)

Not saying a word.. other than too grassy, to cold, then too wet, too weedy ando probably not many left worth saving. If I have any left I will be yanking them out to start a new crop of some other description. I have had it with bearded iris.

Now sibs, those I will take all I can get so if anyone might be interested in my iris.. D-mail me and I wil see what I can do in a couple months. It will not be any choice of colors or named, Im chucking them in a mixed box and will work somethign out asking for postage.

Lake Toxaway, NC(Zone 7a)

I am up in the mtns., a bit cooler than Greensboro but my irises are beginning to get new shoots too. I went out and removed the leaves and underneath, found a lot of chickweed. I pulled a lot up and kept some because it is edible. From the looks of things, I will have free greens all seaso, lol.

South Hamilton, MA

too much snow still to look for weeds.

Lizella, GA(Zone 8a)

Blossom:

Put me on the list for irises... d-mailing you

Melfa, VA(Zone 8a)

I am working very hard on my collection of irises!! Wish there was a way to know what color.
deb

This message was edited Feb 23, 2011 6:08 PM

Ellerbe, NC(Zone 8a)



I've been out weeding all day... have barely made a dent. Wild Onions. A sea of Wild Onions all around me.

South Hamilton, MA

Csn you mention a few? People might know the names. If no ID you will have to photograph spring bloom & move them around.

Lake Toxaway, NC(Zone 7a)

etrail, my daughter was able to identify a lot of her irises and daylilies by taking close-up, focused pix of blossoms and posting them here (via me). She then put out markers. There are some good markers often sold in a cooperative and there is usually a helpful thread here at DG each spring.

Lewisburg, KY(Zone 6a)

Don't you just hate wild onions :( I have them too, not a sea thank goodness. They smell badly too.

Melfa, VA(Zone 8a)

Ooooooo...wild onions!! A sea of them...yes, that is what I have. Pull one up get 10 more in the same place. My granddaughter wants to help me garden when she comes ( they live in NJ and don't come down often) and I let her pull them as she can id them easily. My poor DIL does too except she can't tell which are weeds and which are flowers yet...oops!
Anyone want my Johnson grass??? Roots run, grow down a mile and I have gotten roots up 1/2" thick! I think maybe I would even trade onions for more those though! EXCEPT...it is illegal to grow here.
I have quite a few oldies that I have been id'ing and have quite a few to go though. I moved about 300 rhizomes of those into holding beds (many are the same) until they bloom, hopefully this year.
Deb

Watseka, IL(Zone 5a)

Ok, my offer for the iris has ended.. I have enough takers.. will mail them when the weather allows and when I can dig. Thanks everyone for asking.

Lake Toxaway, NC(Zone 7a)

Are wild onions edible? They look like thin scallions.

Greensboro, NC(Zone 7a)

I think I found a few places that sell Over the Top--if it's not too pricey I may give it a try.

I didn't really have much of a grass/weed problem until the new landlords started using a different lawn crew. They don't use grass catchers on the lawn mower and then walk back around the lawn perimeter w/ leaf blowers and then my couple of small beds and containers started sprouting all sorts of grass and weeds.

Lewisburg, KY(Zone 6a)

Is Over the Top a liquid that you dilute with water? I will be asking around at the farm stores for it.
Teresa

South Hamilton, MA

I haven't seen or used it. It has just been reccommended.

Greensboro, NC(Zone 7a)

When I googled it, the only photo I immediately saw was a liquid-looked like a concentrate. The container was clear with one of those built in squeeze the bottle measuring device/cups at the top. That bottle was priced around $80 or $90 so I'm hoping that smaller bottles are to be found locally. I'll try to find the site I used to find the local sellers. It had a ZIP code search block to see who was selling it in your ZIP within a certain mile radius.

Hannibal, NY(Zone 6a)

Here's the one I'm going to be brave and try this year. A little cheaper, but I don't know how it compares.

This is a concentrate.

http://www.garden.com/item/ornamec-grass-herbicide/G23598/?srccode=tbgarp&tbid=tbgarp001089&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=ornamec%2Bgrass%2Bkiller&utm_campaign=Garden.com_Mar2004-Jan2005&gclid=CK67k6X-pqcCFQFM5Qod63JcBg

Gilbertsville, KY(Zone 7a)

Polly,
I have used "Ornamec" in the past, however, I've found that "Hi-Yield Grass Killer" (from the local COOP) is quite a bit less expensive and, in my opinion, works as good as or better. The Hi-Yield is concentrated and you use 2TBS per gal + a small amount of liq dish washing soap. A pint of Hi-Yield costs about $32. I have been using this for several years and spray over the top on all my bearded irises and day lilies.
Dennis

Lewisburg, KY(Zone 6a)

I grow many more daylilies than iris. I wonder how it would do in the mixed beds. Here is my dl collection online. I really need something that works!

www.plantstep.com

Teresa Barrow

Lewisburg, KY(Zone 6a)

Hey, Dennis
I just noticed your address. We love the KY and Barkley Lake area. I am live closer to Bowling Green.

Gilbertsville, KY(Zone 7a)

We live on KY Lake just south of KY Dam Village State Park.

Hannibal, NY(Zone 6a)

Thanks Dennis. I already have the Ornamec, though. How did it work for you? The Ornamec is a concentrate also.

Watseka, IL(Zone 5a)

Ornamec and many others require a license to use, so read your lables careful.

Hannibal, NY(Zone 6a)

We discussed that last year. Not here. Maybe some places, but not here. I'm a licensed and inspected nursery, and need to be up on these things.

Here's where we discussed it last year. It was back in May. Ornamec does not need a certified person to apply it in NY. I don't know about other states, but I suspect not.


http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1020576/?hl=ornamec

Blossombuddy, if you know of states where Ornamec needs a certified person to apply it please state where and show the restrictions. I'd like to you to be specific on that, as I don't believe it's the case.

This message was edited Feb 27, 2011 9:48 PM

Lebanon, OR

Not in Oregon

D

Hannibal, NY(Zone 6a)

Thanks Dee!

I searched and searched before when this came up, and can't find anything about needing a license to use Ornamec. I'd like to put an end to this if it is in fact a fallacy, as people should not be swayed from using it, if it works.

I'll wait and see what Blossombuddy is basing this statement on, though.

Lebanon, OR

Blossom buddy what state are you in and do you have a commercial license

D

Lebanon, OR

Blossom buddy what state are you in and do you have a commercial license

D

This might help. It is like all chemicals use with caution! I have special yard clothes and use a mask a surgerical mask and wash well after use.

http://www.garden.com/images/prodimages/OrnamecOTT-MSDS.pdf

The is what is given out to farmers, gardeners etc

If you are worried then you should go on line and get the MSDS for any chemical.

No worse than round up

Watseka, IL(Zone 5a)

POLLY - ask the guy who sells it...

Not to avoid answering a direct question or to be unkind..

Its always good to check the labels and be aware. Stuff changes from state to state and product changes. So too does the applicators license.

Some of the chems are OTC in a dilute vs commercial strenght.. generally its the commercial strenghts that you need the applicators, but again, that could vary state to state and the applicators state tests change too so that is always something to be aware of. Just because they make the rules it is still your job to read the label and apply common sense to them. Which many in the farms and backyarders often fail to do regarding the common sense, but thats the world.

Just because you can acquire a product does not make it proper for anyone who acquired it to use it.

Most if not all chemicals that require an applicators license or permit have it printed either on a label or handout of the product you can acquire or at least should. That is something you as the applier should inquire about at the checkout counter. Those selling it are required to also be licensed to sell it and/or apply and to provide the information. Often it is the most un asked questions on either the sellers or buyers part and everyone assumes the other guy knows what he or she is doing. Which by the way is often the farthest from the case in the dont ask, dont tell world. The retailers want their money, how you get out the door, some dont care.. just as long as you have paid for it.

It will not matter what state I am in vs yours etc.. its your state, your location and your knowledge of use and the guy who sells you. Granted, you might be able to obtain/buy it, but there are also stipulations on those selling it and restricted use. If you have retail license etc. Its your conscience so when in doubt ask the seller if your the buyer and viceversa.

We are not open to the public. We do primarily organic so very very rarely are chems used here because of the water table and our personal concern of things going into the ground water.. unlike some neighbors who either lack the knowledge of how to in what they do or who literally do not care.

Nurseries, farms ag operations are often required to keep records of where they apply chems with their garden maps.. least as that is what is supposed to be in our state for certain license types.. This might be different in your state. If you have a license for a nursery your states department of ag will let you know. Or at least they should let you know. Or perhaps its your Cooperative extension service that is your states department.
The biggest thing with licensing, is that jsut becasue you have a paper that says you are a licensed such and so, does not mean it backs up any knowlegde and is often just a paper that said you paid a state or local fee to operate.

Its one of those things that like someone once said, you cant stop birds from flying overhead, but you can stop them from building a nest in your hair.. I have been around long enough in this world to know that even the department of ag, and especially in my state passes the buck and no one knows all as they keep their hands warm in patronage jobs. So as someone else says, how goes the "church" that is how the country is runned... but then thats another topic.. so getting back to this topic.. My opinion is read the labels, use common sense and inquire in your area. If your not farming my ground then your rules in my state do not necessarily apply.

California for example s stricker than say Mississipi etc...if your playing by the rules, read and know them.

Co-operative extension services, departmens of ag, thats what those departments are there for in those states and sometimes neither are often NOT the same not to be unkind!

A licensed nursery by the way is not the same as a chemical applicators license. While I could have a nursery license, if I am appplying chemicals, then I also need the required applicators license to do so. Chemicals consist of pesticide, herbicide etc.

As worthless as this is, but I will suggest it too because your state may be more concerned you can also contact your EPA office and ask them.. Quite frankly and honestly, sometimes the EPA can be the most worthless department to contact for anything because the EPA is often more concerned in letting people have permits for projects that destroy the environment and not protecting it.. Been around long enough to know that in our state the EPA is a MISNOMER especially when it comes to landfills and land pollution.. their montra in our state appears more if you got the money to pay the fine, thats great, but well, you messed the land, thats your problem.. whether it gets cleaned up.. thats truly debateable. More fights go on about who and what is right and more money is spent erroneously in thinking that something is protecting vs what it really stands for. The bottomline is caring about the environment is one thing.. collecting money to support a government issue is another.

Like I said.. Read your labels, its YOUR CONSCIENCE.

And again, not to be unkind, political or whatever the case.. life always boils down to one side of the fence or the other is always offended. Therefore someone is alwasy an offender or defender.. and im not trying here to be either.. just stating facts.

And when you read the label, besure to use a magnifying glass because the answer often lies the small print most of us do, do not, will not or cannot read read.

Just my 2c!

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