Fast growing and producers of fruits, any ideas?

What do you mean by avobe or below the craft?, sorry I am just too new at this.

Most fruit trees are grafted. That means the roots of the tree are one type or variety and the top of the tree is another.

The root stock is chosen for a particular reason. Perhaps improved tolerance of wet soils, cold temps or to confer dwarfing.

The tops of the trees are chosen for quality of fruit, to propagate a type that does not root well, etc. With grafting, it is even possible to grow several varieties of fruit on a single tree as well.

The process of combing the root stock with the new top of the tree is called "grafting". For fruit trees, grafts are usually a few inches above the soil line. If the tree dies above the graft, then you lose the variety that the tree was sold as, e.g. the fruiting part of the tree. This is because the root stock usually does not produce quality of fruit, having been selected for the purpose of providing the best support for the top of the plant. If the top of the tree dies, often the roots will put up shoots (below the graft) and the tree will continue to grow. However, this is not the same tree that you would have wanted to see produce fruit.

Grafting is easy and many people routinely do it. If you want to be an avid fruit gardener, then you should probably learn how to do this. There are many good sites on the web that can show you how. To paraphrase an old saying "Any fool can graft". It's been done for as long as people have been raising fruit trees.

That's odd because it doesn't look like there is a graft where the leaves stop. Not sure how the top could all die off and most of the truck on the other hand.

carminator raised a good point. However, sometimes it can be hard to tell if a tree has been grafted, especially if the graft is below the soil. Some fruit trees/bushes, such as the bush cherries, usually are not grafted. Plums can go either way, but keep in mind that cherries and plums are more difficult to start from cuttings than many other plants.

Can you take close(r)up pictures of the bottom stems of both trees and post them. We can't see the stems well enough to see if they are grafted from the pictures you posted.

krowten yes I'll take a better picture tomorrow so you guys can see better. Like Core said, I really can't tell where the craft part is, it looks like the same trunk to me.

O.K here's the picture. there is clear resin right where the growth stops so I really think the part where the leaves stop has been damaged.

Here's another

Carminator, It does look to me that you have a grafted tree. The graft union appears to be about an inch above the ground level (guesstimate as telling exact dimensions from pictures is hard). You appear to have shoots both below and above the graft union. Only the shoots above the graft should be allowed to grow. Simply snap off the ones below the graft.

It's hard to be completely certain, but looking closely at the picture shows that the base of the tree is wider than the top and there is an abrupt transition in width. That is where the graft appears to be.

You have some research and decisions to make:

1) Which plum tree is which?

2) Do you know if the trees are self fertile or do they need pollinators. You need to answer this for each tree. This is an important question to answer.

3) Once you have the answers to the above, you need to find out if the damage you have to the tree is covered by your warranty. Likely as long as it is alive above the graft, you will not be able to replace it under the warranty and without buying another one. However, it's time to find that out.

4) Since the damaged tree is living and apparently healthy (there is damage to the tree structure but it clearly is alive and growing well) and since they are young, the damaged tree will likely catch up to the living tree in a year or two in growth. However, without good pruning its growth will not "match" the other tree. Since they are different varieties, they may look differently anyway. However you should decide whether you want to keep it or not?

If it was me, I would keep the damaged tree and work on its form over the next few years. However if one or both of the trees are incompatible pollinators for each other (and not self-fertile), then you would be facing the situation where you need to add another tree as a pollinator.

Also, the name you are missing is likely "Blue Damson". However, if the names are correct, both of the plums you have are each self-fertile. Welcome to plant parenthood!

I second a grafted tree with the graft about an inch above ground level. Something happened where the leaves stop and the tree seems dead from there up.

Thanks Krowten, the guy that I bought my trees from mentioned that I needed 2 for better polination but maybe it was just a sales pitch to get me to buy more. As far as which tree is which, I really don't remember unfortunately, I did not laber them separately and I really should have.

My question is, if I am to replace this tree with another one could I buy a completely different fruit tree, like lets say nectarine and would they polinate each other? Also I do have a nice Meyer Lemon tree planted as well in the front lawn with these two trees, so will the lemon tree polinate this other healthy fruit tree.

Core, I am not sure what happened, my DH thinks maybe the tree got bent and therefore maybe it got damaged, the funny thing is that some of the side branches look like they are not dead, they have the greenish color on them but no buds or leaves at all. I am really thinking of just buying another tree and planting it in its place. The cost of each tree was $4, so it is not a big loss.

Well, the damaged tree is alive and growing well. Pollination can be complicated. There's the timing of the flowers to consider as well as what varieties pollinate what varieties. There are actually tables available that will tell you. I think it unlikely that a plum tree will pollinate a nectarine but that is a bit out of my area of knowledge. Fruit trees do tend to fall in categories or groups. For example, peaches, nectarines and apricots are relatively closely related and may be a pollinator for each other (depending on the specific variety, of course). Some cherries and plums can pollinate or interbreed. There are fruit tree/bushes that are crosses between cherries and plums called "chums". Nectarines are a special kind of peach. Keep in mind that within the category "plums" some plum types may not pollinat others - you just can't always tell without doing the research (making it sound like a lot of work, but it really isn't)

Also, the guy you bought your trees from was giving you the straight story. Even though the trees are self fertile, you would tend to get more fruit with the other tree available as a pollinator. This is very common.

If it were me, I would keep the damaged tree and perhaps add a third type of tree if you have the space. I would research what kinds of trees are pollinated by the ones you have. After all, you haven't been through a winter with them and may find that one or more do not like your summer weather or have problems surviving your winter. The good tree could suffer some winter or disease or insect damage as well.

My basic philosophy is that if one plum tree is good, two is better and three is better yet. Sorry...

O.K I've been doing some research and it seems that european plum trees an Japanese plums should not be planted together because their flowers will not bloom at the same time and therefore they can't be used as polinators, now I am a little upset. One of the trees I have is a japanese one the Methley plum, the other is Blue Damson is European, and unfortunately I did not label them, so I am at a lost on which one is which. They are supposed to be self fertile but still I was hoping to have a better crop planting 2 good polinators.

As far as space I am not sure if I'll have any left since the plum trees are supposed to be planted so far appart from each other but will see tomorrow for sure. Also if I was to keep the damaged tree should I prun it or cut it to where the growth ends?

Me, I would not prune until early next spring, before the tree leafs out. There is still the chance that the "dead" part is just delayed by damage that may be healing. If it doesn't show signs of growth by the fall, then you can be sure that part is truly dead.

You may have learned a very valuable lesson here. Always keep the labels and make sure they remain associated with the right plants. It sure makes things easier to figure out when you have a problem. Also, when you find something that works well for your micro-climate, you may want to get other similar types. I make regular passes through my garden, renewing fading labels.

Both of the plum types that you have are very popular. The cross-pollination issue may not be that important as these are reliable, self-fertile plums. However, I would talk to the guy at the nursery to bring him up to speed on plum pollination. It was likely an honest mistake but if he is making recommendations, he should know the difference. If pollination was not an issue (because they are self fertile) he may have been pointing you to two very reliable croppers. (Did you know there are also Asian and European pears, too?)

I'd like to make a book recommendation to you and anybody else following this thread. Lee Reich has a very good book about backyard garden fruit growth. My favorite gardening book that will teach you lots. "Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden". This thread started off with Carminator looking for quick fruits for her yard. Some of the uncommon fruits in the book would be ideal. (and this book teaches a lot!)

I'd like to speak again in favor of bush cherries like Nanking cherry or Joel. These are two different kinds of cherries with different ripening seasons. They are small and can fruit in pots. Their taste is quite good, not a sweet as a sweet cherry but not as tart as a pie cherry. They are go to the bush and eat type fruits. You could sink the potted plants in the ground and then take them with you when you move (as long as the plants are removed from the ground every year or the roots will escape)

Lastly, there are plum varieties that are a cross or hybrid between an american plum and an asian plum. (Toka, for example) It's very possible that one of these crosses may be able to pollinate one or both of your existing trees. I just do not know enough to answer that question. However, more research may turn up one of them or maybe not. Also, keep in mind that a healthy plum rootstock, such as your damaged tree, might become home for multiple types of plums and cherries as you adventure into grafting. When life gives you lemons...

http://msucares.com/pubs/infosheets/is1434.pdf

This link is appropriate for the Gulf Coast.

I also planted 2 plum trees this year in late January. Elephant Heart is all leafed out and the Burgundy has none. The cambium is green so it isn't dead...yet. This is very aggravating but I've heard tales of new trees taking a very long time to show signs of life. They're called self pollinating but it is always recommended to have a pollinator for increased production. I chose these two with that in mind.

I have 3 mature plums, Methley, Santa Rosa and Bruce. The former 2 have finished blooming and Bruce has peaked. Bruce and Elephant Heart are both late ones but they're planted 150' apart. Does anyone know how far apart they can be and still pollinate?

Thanks Krowten, actually my local library has a copy of the book you suggested so I just placed it on hold.

O.K I think in between you and Twiggy you have convinced me to keep it longer and see what happens, so that is what I'll do. I would Imagine these trees are young so they wont even start producing for at least a couple of years so the polinating factor wont be too much of a problem until then I suppose.

Yes I also imagine the guy that sold me the trees was just reccomending the ones he liked for flavor, I do remember he said the golden colored ones did not taste quite as good as this ones.

I have never crafted a tree but it definetely looks interesting, I many times have seen lemon and orange trees crafted in the same rootstock and always thought it was the coolest thing ever to own one.

As far as spacing I placed mine at 18 ft appart and each tree is at each corner of my front lawn with the lemon tree in the middle. There is another spot I would have been able to place a plum tree as well but my husband wants to tear that grass off and maybe place concrete so that is why my choices were limited. Also I do have a holding tank up front and I had to place both trees far away from the holding tank to ensure the roots would not get close to it. My back yard is slopped and about 1/2 of it flods when it rains so I only have limited space to plant things as well there and I am placing raise beds in the upper section of the back yard so I can't place any fruit trees there either.

Thanks twiggy for the info, I'll have to look it over.

twiggybuds, The answer to your question about how far apart the trees can be and still pollinate each other is....how far can a bee or other pollinator fly. They do not usually have to be in real close proximity. A neighbors tree or one down the block can do it. More important is the time they bloom. The period when blooms are open have to overlap in order to get cross pollination. Don

Thanks. I think the bees can find a tree 150' away especially since they bloom in sequence. First Methley, then Santa Rosa and last the Bruce. That should have all the bees trained to come looking. They all overlap to some degree and judging by the time of the new Elephant Heart leafing out, it should coincide with something. If the Burgundy doesn't wake up I'll probably replace it next year.

It's reported that 90% of the plums marketed in the US are grown in CA. I just don't see why this should be because they're almost carefree for me.

Growing a fruit tree successfully as a backyard project and doing it on a large scale and profitably year after year are two entirely different things. Until someone pointed out to me that it had an alternative meaning, I always thought that all the fruits and nuts being in California was a compliment.

Lol. CA does have a rich heritage with fruits and nuts of great diversity. As always, you lead the way and the rest of the country follows. I'd say on balance that it's a great compliment. There are lots of good things going on out there. My impression has improved since I try to ignore the entertainment industry.

O.K, we, DH and I decided to take the plum tree out the one that has not leaves at all but just on the bottom, my DH really thinks that the tree got damamged and that the upper part is completely dead. If I had more space I would have really kept it to see what happens but since out space is limited and really want to plant something soon that will produce something for us we decided to just take the tree out.

I just placed an order with Stark bros, decided on their ichi-ki-kei-jiro oriental persimmon tree, I absolutely love persimmons they are one of my favorite fruits and I just can seem to get any here in the US and when I do see them in the stores they are extremely expensive.
Have any of you ordered from starkbros before? I understand that they have a 1 year warranty on their trees,I mean they better because I mean it is quite pricey.

I am also thinking of purchasing a fig tree but I have seen fig trees here in mobile so will probably buy one locally, figs are also one of my favorites, they are so versatile.

I also see that they sell pawpaws in their catalog, I am so tempted, I love them, if you have never tried them they taste really sweet almost like custard.

One last thing, sorry to keep asking, can any of you reccomend a small bushy type bush that I can plant in the front of my house, I have some bushes right now in the front of my house but they just don't produce anything and I would love to eventually take all of them out and plant fruit bushes, something that would look nice but also produce something in return. I was looking at their lingonberries but unfortunately they are not good for my zone 8.

You might try a Sunshine Blue evergreen blueberry (supposed to grow to about 3 feet tall) for a small bush by the front of your house. They have a blue green leaf and the berries taste really good and ripen over a period of time in August- sometimes even into September.

Don't plant pawpaws if you're hoping for fruit anytime soon. I planted some named varieties three years ago and they're still nowhere near fruiting size. They really don't enjoy being transplanted and grow very slowly for a while. After I planted them, I discovered that the woods around my house were full of wild pawpaws -- I haven't seen blooms on any wild trees that are shorter than 6', and since my trees aren't even waist-high yet, I think I still have years to go!

Thanks mauryhillfarms, I think that might be a good one the blueberry.

Loligo, I love pawpaws but no I will not plant any here in my house, one because of lack of space, 2 because I might be moving in 4 years or so. I am also wondering whether or not they'll even like this humid weather we have here.