I was reading on the SSV website and she says that she tilts the plant at a 45 degree angle when planting to encourage new shoots. Do you agree?
Also, when I bought my one (actually there are 3 there), at a very small local greenhouse; the man told me to put driveway stone in the bottom of the hole and that it would continually feed the plant with (something?) lime maybe? Any truth to that?
I bought 3 of the same one because I asked him how many I would need to fill a certain space and he said that 1 would fill it in 3 years and 2 would fill it in 2 years (or something like that). I told him to give me 3 because I wanted it NOW. Good thing because the one on the right doesn't get as much sun and has stayed small.
Planting
I've "read" that people have put a stone in the hole for drainage but I seriously don't see the need nor understand the concept...especially the part about "Feeding" the plant..what would a rock give off to feed anything?..I've planted both ways and both have worked...planting the first "leaf axil" undersoil by slanting the vine at a 45* angle or straight up gives you a better and stronger plant as the "leaf axil" will eventually root giving you a second plant in the same spot...
There is no such thing as "instant gratification" with growing clematis so over planting will only 'cause you grief in the long run and probably kill your clematis if their roots must fight in competition for nutrients...Remember the "Mature" height and width when planting and plant accordingly..I am known to plant a foot apart but deep watering sends the roots Down down down in the soil which is a good thing...Jeanne
ps..what dimensions are the space you are referring to?..
Hi Jeanne - I should have said driveway "gravel" - ours is small and gray and does look like its covered with a powder. My husband could only guess that the breakdown of the gravel would release lime (I think).
My space is a span of about 6/7 feet. They definately aren't close enough to fight unless they start growing a lot more. I was trying to hide my husband's woodshed which isn't exactly attractive.
I understand on the instant gratification, but I did feel the need for fast coverage.
I wouldn't put rock in the bottom -- you could be creating a little bowl for water to drain into. At least that is the theory. I've never tested it.
I rarely tilt the clematis towards the support. I don't know if this is a coincidence or not, but one of the clematis I tilted has roots right underneath the mulch.
In the spirit of maybe we over think things and fuss too much over our plants...
I don't think tilting them towards the support is necessary.
Thank you, JuliaJayne.
i do not tilt. crown more likely to expose root over time or heave in cold winters....you have to go too deep with a tilt to be following best practice guidelines.
no gravel or stones, holds air pockets between which freezes and is not good in dormant climates. no need to. that won't save poor drainage from ground condition or heavy clay soil.
i plant in holes 12 inches wide and 18 inches deep. very good success with this. holes sometimes as close as touching. have huge plants with touching holes. see attached photo from last weekend. etoile violette and lady betty balfour,each 9 ft tall plus. touching holes, each in it's own collar. just put two more in, one on each side of these tow, also touching holes. blue elizabeth and a new allanah both from ssv.
i use a collar around the clem to hold in amended soil, compost and goodies and id the hole. more common in europe than here, as i have learned recently, altho for me necessity was the mother of invention. there is a thread on this somewhere on the forum i started with photo.
god luck all. every garden is different, but i am becoming more confident in what creates high success ration and a good, vigorous plant in my zone...
that is wrong photo, but the clems are same thing there, touching holes
Thank you, Guru. Good information. I'll check for the crown thread.
Dathen
if you can't find it let me know. and when i get back in the garden sunday i will take a snap of a grouping of the bases of clems and post. here is the collar pic from 08 with a baby clem in it. it is "consort" and that is now to the top of the trellis.
about 09% of my clems are in collars.
when i discovered the idea a couple of years ago, mainly due to erosion of all the expensive top dressing, i went back and retrofitted most of the clems with one.
if the clem is one that does not get hard pruned i cut the collar into a strip and stapled it into the circle around the base, and worked it down into the soil.
recently i saw some pictures and discussion of someone in europe that was using the collars. they also keep small animals away from the shoots, can discourage insects, mark the hole in the case of MIA clem, hold the soil in as i mentioned, and make it easy to water as you can break the flow of water on the side of the collar and fill the collar and you are deep and direct watering the clem with far less difficultly.
Guru - Thank you so much - I found the thread (July 7, 2008). It took a while, but well worth the effort. This sounds like a great idea for several reasons. I have often spent time in the spring searching for a plant from the previous year. Will also give me an idea of how much water I'm giving. Again, thank you. You are very generous with your advice.
it is my pleasure dathan. the only place i have met those interested in clems as i am is on the internet. my local friends may ooh and aah in season, but are not into the details og getting th eooh and aahh and discovering the simplicity of clems!