I sprayed dormant oil about 6 weeks ago. I think it is close to time to spray something else. Could our garden friends please help with a refresher course of some kind or a schedule? I have pear, apple, almond, nectarine, peach, plum, and pecan, all planted within the last 3 years. Some have buds starting to swell and an almond has one flower already. I am not growing a garden this year because I want to concentrate on having bugless, blightless, fungusless fruit now that most are large enough to have decent fruit. Thanks in advance,
Mike
Fruit tree spray schedule for zone 7b
Peach borers - spray when buds swell, (you only spray the trunk and surrounding ground. Regular spray shedule begins at petal drop. Nothing is sprayed during blossom time.
I usually spray once for brown rot and peach leaf curl before the buds open.
Some people do this in late fall, instead.
Could be a good year. Already a response from 2 of the 3 that stick in my mind as someone I was hoping to hear from. The last two years, my pear trees had fire-blight. I used Bordeau?? and it seemed to help. Last year my best looking nectarine tree had alot of fruit on it and then developed brown-rot. I sprayed heavily with some kind of fungicide and it died. I believe that I should have watered first. We had the wettest spring/summer that I have ever seen, but I believe it was the third wettest year on record.
1) For the peach borers, trunk and ground only, would that be a dormant oil again or what do you suggest? I would like to go organic.
2) For the brown rot and peach leaf curl, would that be a fungicide? Beardeau(spelling??) misture or what do you suggest?
3) I spray this/these ONLY ONCE NOW and nothing else until all flowers are gone?
4) What spray after that and how often?
Thanks again, Mike
I am not organic, but this outfit seems to make good suggestions. They do point out that organic fruit production is much much easier in the west than the east. At any rate, check with your county agent. Tamu should have precise recommendations for all areas of Texas. Borers emerge from the ground as the sap rises, so they can be controlled at hatch if you time it just right. If you have high humidity you will fight brown rot all summer.
http://creatures.ifas.ufl.edu/fruit/borers/peachtree_borer.htm
http://cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/peachtreeborer2006.html
brown rot http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/plantdiseasefs/450-721/450-721.html
http://plantpathology.tamu.edu/TexLab/Fruit/Peach/peachbr.html
Is it okay to spray a fungicide during bloom as long as it is not mixed with a pesticide? I do not want to harm the bees. This is a quote from the last link "Control by applying a fungicide during pink bud, bloom, petal fall, and at preharvest.". Thanks, Mike
Many fungicides are not harmful to insects. Select carefully. I don't spray during petal drop since I use dormant fungcides (Sulphur or copper based ones) and begin my spray schedule after petal drop. I have in the past in Virginia had problems with Peach leaf curl, which can be best treated with a winter fungicide.
I ordered bordeaux powder and surround last night. I am starting another thread asking about if they can be used together. I think bordeaux is copper based, but not sure.
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