What is the best Fungicide for home garden

Looking for the most effective fungicide to use on all veggy plants.

BocaBob

I am using horticultural corn meal. www.dirtdoctor.com

LouC,

How does horticultural corn meal differ from regular corn meal? And how do you use it for the plants?

www.dirtdoctor.com/view_question.php?id=1988

Go to this link for an indepth description of H. cornmeal.

Hope it helps.

I had read that it is used with molassis as a food source for the good microbs that feed on or compete with the bad guys.
I do not think that it, in it's self, will kill fungus but rather serve as a food for the good ones.
Charlie

It has worked for me. Of course, we all have different climate conditions to take into consideration.

PHYSAN 20 from Spray-n-grow:
http://www.spray-n-growgardening.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PHYSAN20PT&top=7

It's all I use, personally and professionally.
Debbie
=)

dmj1218 - I have read everything I could find on Physan 20, and they say not to use it on vegetable plants. Am I wrong? Help me out here.

Does it say that? I use it for bulbs (ornamental not edible). I'll go out and read the container in am (light bulb out in garage--need a ladder to reach it).

Well, on the website it says it is biodegradable after 2 days. I would think that meant safe on veggies. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Well I know corn meal is made from GMO products, so I guess there is a prblem with all of the products.

GMO?

genetically modified
=)

Thank you.

A fungicide on a vegetable you're going to eat??? Did you want to glow in the dark? What disease are you trying to treat?

down here in florida land we get every fungi and disease known to man. Almost all veggies need to be treated, it seems like. I would be happy to use one that is natural or for organic . On my cukes and squashes last year, especially bad (looks like moldsor mildew.

I'm very curious, I happen to garden organically, but I have different climatic conditions to deal with. Have you googled cuke and squash diseases so you an pinpoint exactly what you're dealing with. You want to be sure you're using the correct agent for the correct disease and it's extremely important to use it at the right time. If you don't have any success with google, do contact your local extension agent who should be able to help you with the problem.

thanks doccat5

Don't thank me, that stuff can kill fungi it's not going to do you a whole lot of good either. If you absolutely MUST use the junk, please do read the directions, follow them carefully and dress appropriately. If it's that bad it might be smarter and cheaper to go the nearest farmer's market for fresh. :)

I found a recipe for an organic fungicide in an organic gardening book a few years ago. It worked wonders on my zuchini, pumpkin, cucumber, and pansys! Powdery mildew is what was bothering them, and bothering me too!

Then I found a few more variations of the recipe. It seems the important ingredients are the baking soda and oil. And the dish soap is to bind the oil to the water. One book said that the oil and the baking soda work sepparately, but even better when used together.

Something like this: To 1 litre of water, add 1t baking soda, 1t cooking oil, 1-2 drops biodegradeble dish soap.
Also some fish emulsion or liquid organic fertiliser of some sort, to give a light foliar feed at the same time. I guess that part is optional.
mix together and pour into a spray bottle. spray onto foliage as needed.

Hope that helps. As far as I know none of those ingredients are harmful. I use a very good chemical free dish soap by Neways.

Lena

I used baking soda with some sucess on zinnias last year. Important to get the dilution correct so as not to burn the plants (I burned mine which didn't hurt flower production but did result in ugly foliage. Might also have weakened the plants. By the end of the first week in Sept, I gave up and pulled all the zinnas out).

This year I'm switching from sodium bicarbonate to a commerically prepared potassium bicarbonate mixture containing surfactants (theory being potassium is better for the soil than sodium and I'll be more likely to get the diluation correct with a commerical product).

Also going to start with an Actinovate® SP drench and perhaps use it as a foliar spray for the mildew as well if the potassium bicarbonate isn't effective.

For cucurbits, I plan to use Chlorothalonil.

Lucked out with tomatoes last year. No need for anything even though cucurbits ten feet way got wiped out by powdery mildew (my fault, I caught the zinnas in time but not the squash and cukes). Chlorothanlonil is a preventative so by rights I should have used it as many heirloom growers do but decided to take a chance--mainly because I had so many plants to coat.

PHYSAN 20 will be last line of defense (probably test it out as a first line of defense on a few zinnias and sunflowers at the far end of the yard).

Been reading up on it and mildew problems early in the season in CT are a recent development. Until about five years ago, mildew came up with the hurricane season. By the time it was a problem, home gardeners pretty much had their fill of zucchini anyways. Apparently widespread shipment of plants is introducing it earlier. Few years ago a large pumpkin grower near me lost almost his entire field. The State Ag people have jumped on the problem and there is quite a bit on the net from UConn on how to fight mildew.