What annuals do I need to start in January?

HI all, We need a thread on what annuals need a true head start. A 14-16 week head start.

So far we have:
Angelonias (serena)
Begonias
Geranium
Lisianthus (Eustoma)
Lobelia
Pentas
Vinca
Laurentia axillaris aka Isotoma axillaris aka Blue Star Creeper
There is one more, and I forget what it is, but it's little, and the garden centers usualy sell it as a premium plant in hanging baskets. Torenia? Does that need to be started really early?

PLEASE post. I know I am forgetting something(s)!

Thanks,
Suzy


This message was edited Jan 31, 2008 2:56 AM

This message was edited Feb 24, 2008 1:04 AM

Hi Suzy,

Pansies should be started now. They are a little slow to germinate and grow slowly. Some need to be cold treated to get them to germinate. Lots of varieties to choose from, including some new ones. You can set them out when the weather is still on the cool side.

MM

Oh, my!--Illoquin, you're making me feel very far behind! I hadn't thought of starting any annuals until May!

And here you are starting all kinds of seeds and managing those seed swaps and getting ready for the daff season!

You're a bundle of energy!

All I can do is go to the mail box and look for seed catalogs!

i sure didn't know things get planted now!! and i live in texas!! where spring starts in feb! i thought you wait till last frost! suzy i lived in fishers and i know spring doesn't start that early in indianapolis----i liked indianapolis a lot--also lived on the east side before fishers

Hi MM, Okay, Pansies, and primula, too (although they are generally pernnial, they both like the cooler weather....anything else?

No, you're both right Tab & Linda, Spring doesn't start that early, but some of these seeds need to be sowed early-early so they are ready when the weather is because they take so darn long!

I remembered another one: begonias.

Suzy

the ones that I start in Jan to be ready at the first of May are : begonias, vinca, angelonias (serena), pentas, geraniums and rudbeckia (annual-Indian summer)

So you must have a pretty good light set up?

these are in a grhouse in full sun I guess I should add that I am a commercial annual grower

Oh, Tigerlily! What a fantastic resource! How about the Feb list, or what comes next? With all the seed I , ahem, have here, I might need to do some digging!!!

lol off the top of my head, and these are all geared to be ready late April/first of May is

Salvia farinacea (blue salvia) 2/7
gomphrena 2/7
dusty miller 2/7
Salvia splendens types ( red salvia etc)- 2/14
impatiens 2/14 and 2/21
ornamental chilis 2/14
petunias 2/21 and 2/27
portulaca 2/21
marigolds 2/27
cosmos 2/27
celosia 3/3
zinnia 3/3
I think those are the main ones, I may have forgotten some. If there are any that I have forgotten-just ask me.

Hot Dog!!!

Now *that's* what DG has been missing -- I gotta find those tags and how to use them!

Let me look at my seeds and see what else I have. :)))

Thank YOU!!!

Suzy

What are you talking about "tags and how to use them"??? just wondering...

I can barely figure this out, but this is what I meant.

http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/802588/

Suzy

Oh, yes. I see. Thanks. I thought the tags were already in place...or are they?

(I didn't read to the bottom of that long thread.)

The tags are in place DG-wise, I just wanted to tag this thread.

Suzy, you don't want to start your annuals as early as Tigerlily. I started black eyed susans much too early last year - they germinate quickly. Vinca is slow, so that needs an earlier start, as well as salvia. I would wait on the marigolds as well and BES. You should be able to start them when you start your zinnias. Definitely start those geraniums, they took forever.

Last year was my first time, and I had quite a few plants ready to go in the ground long before the last frost day hit. I ended up buying more shelving because I ran out of space.

Hey, Penne, Fancy seeing you here!

Well, Yeah, I didn't really look at the dates as closely as I should have - I just saw that some seeds I had were listed, but you're right; I shouldn't use the same dates as NC. My last frost date is April 15, so a month early on the marigolds?

It's interesting, though that the other ones - the begonia, lisianthus, geranium, et al, *are* the same dates as up north.

I ran into some trouble already this year wih Pro Mix BX staying way too wet and compressing. I went to the website and found out it is for containers, and cuttings, not seedlings OOOPS! I can use it later in the year, but I had to make an emergency stop at Lowe's to get some bags of Moisture Control Miracle Grow until I can get back to my little garden place to buy the bales of Pro Mix for seed starting.

TigerLily, what do ya'll use?

Suzy

Suzy, I use two different mediums for germinating, depending on how I am germinating. When I do plug sheets (which are very small squares-288 holes per flat size) I use a very fine Metro Mix. When I do seed trays I use a medium just like Pro mix. I don't have any problems with it drying out. I water it a lot less after the seeds have popped and have started to send out their true leaves. I also have them in a sunny warm grhouse so maybe they dry out faster then.

Our last frost date is supposed to be April 15-but that is just a general guide. Its also an average (as yours is too) We have had frosts after the 15th, as I imagine you have also, being farther north than me. In fact i am surprised that we share the same last frost date with you being over two zones colder than me. At any rate, I don't think that you want to start your marigolds a month before me, maybe after would be better.

LOL! No, I meant March 15 on the marigolds, a month before set out, not a month before you. Yes, Indianapolis has a very long growing season... I didn't realize it before joining DG and hearing about the weather (from gardeners' perspectives') from around the country.

We haven't had frost here (at my house, at least) after April 22 in over 20 years. I know this because of the daffodils and the daffodil shows in the midwest which are all around that time.

Here are some more dates, some I sort of averaged because of the conflicting information.
Information used from www.Stokeseeds.com
Using April 22nd as the last frost date:

Abutilon Bella Mix - says sow April 1, blooms in 80 days. (Mar 22)

Accroclinium - This species prefers direct seeding (May 1)

Angelonia (Annual) - Feb 14 (Grow with impatiens)

Aster (Annual) - Direct sow Apr 15, or start indoors Mar 15

Basil - Indoors Apr 1 or direct sow May 15. (Apr 1)

Bells Of Ireland - WS. It needs a week of cold, then to fluctutate between 85 and 50 degrees to germinate.

Brachycome (Swan River Daisy) Direct Sow May 1 (May 1)

Celosia - Needs heat; Do not sow before Apr 1st.

Heliotrope - slow; start indoors by Mar. 1st for July blooms.

Kochia scoparia (Burning Bush) - Easily grown from seed outdoors.

Lobelia Annual Dwarf/Trailing (Jan 25)

Lobelia Upright - 14 weeks (Jan 14)

Nemesia - about 10 weeks before last frost, grow cool. (Feb 12)

Nemophila - warm soil with bell jar and direct sow April 15. Cool season annual (Apr 15)

Nolana - Mar 1 for April 15 set out after frost (cool season) (Mar 1)

Osteospermum Hardy Annual. Cool Season annual, full sun. 80 days, but wants daytime temps below 75.

Phacelia Annual - Direct sow as soon as ground can be worked (needs hot, dry, full sun)(Mar 15)

Phlox Annual - Best thinly sowed in a flat and transplanted HOS. Weakest seedlings are best colors. (Mar 1)

Reseda odorata (Mignonette) - Direct Sow (May 1)

Salpiglossis (Painted Tongue) - says Mar 1, but also says 10-12 weeks (Feb 20)

Torenia - 10-12 weeks before last frost (Feb 12)

This message was edited Jan 18, 2008 8:21 AM

Tigerlily, I just figured out why your dates are so much earlier than mine despite having about the same last frost date. It's because you are selling them in bloom, right? I just need to have a decent sized plant to put out. Marigolds are usually budded, and the Impatiens might actually be in bloom, but everything else is just coming on.

Last year I started my petunias too early, around Feb 14, and I had jumbo 6" pots in bloom at set out.

I wonder if Dave would consider doing an interactive calender so these dates could change depending on what set out date you choose. Hmm, I might need to rephrase that, but I wonder what kind of computer programming it would entail?

Suzy

Yes, I think thats part of it-somethings I do send out in bloom, somethings not. But I do start some plants earlier so I can pinch them back once or twice-like the angelonias, salvias, impatiens,celosia etc. Others I start earlier and put them outside in late march to harden them off-like petunias and begonias-which does slow down their growth some, but makes a stronger plant. I just have to watch the weather and cover the begonias esp if we are going to get a frost that evening-of which I do probably 3-10 times before I send them out. i have long, wide frost blankets that I use to cover them, and heavy weed block on top of that if I need to.

Oh, I forgot about pinching ...maybe I need to make a database with columns and add that, too.

I bought my first seeds today. I decided to go to the nursery, even though I know that a lot of their seeds wouldn't be on display yet. I still managed to spend a good amount of money. Now I am finalizing my orders with Stokes and Burpee. All of my January seed starts I'm having to order, so I'll probably actually begin my week when the geraniums, vinca and lisanthus arrive.

This year, I will be increasing the variety, but cutting back on the number of flowers that I am starting.

Thanks so much for starting this thread, Suzy! Did anyone have good results from sowing Lisianthus (Eustoma) early. None of mine made it last year. Perhaps, I started them too late and then the weather heated up to quickly. Should I start them in January or February in my growing zone?

Shirley, I read on the annuals thread that Nov-Dec wasn't too early for Lisianthus, but then most people decided it was literally cheaper to buy them in the spring because of the lights and possibly heat (mat) that needed to be left on.

Here's the thread:
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/805535/

Thanks for the link, Suzy. I was just reading that thread while you were posting your answer. It sounds like most people purchased their Lisianthus (Eustoma) plants vs. sowing them from seed. I have 2 varieties of Lisianthus (Eustoma) seeds and I'm wondering if I should spring sow them outdoors or start them indoors now with a heating mat and lights. I guess I'll experiment and try half the seeds with a mat/lights vs. spring sowing them outdoors. I love these beautiful annuals, but they can be a bit challenging to grow!

Hi, I'm new to DG, but not to growing annuals from seed. I've grown them from seed for over 20 years and grow to have them a good size, but not necessarily in bloom for planting time. My last frost date is the first week in May. I found that starting some annuals too early resulted in plants needing to be cut back, there fore delaying flowering time and they took up too much room under my lights. For zone 5b-6a here in Ontario Canada this is what works for what I'm going to grow this year.
Alternanthera 'Royal Tapestry' 02
Begonia 'Bada Boom' end of 02
Coleus 'Chocolate Mint' mid 03
Cosmos 'Sonata White' mid 03
Gazania 'Daybreak Pink Shades' mid 02
Heliotropium 'Marine Lemoine' end of 02
Hibiscus 'Luna Pink Swirl' mid 02
Hibiscus 'Red Shield' mid 02
Impatiens mid 03
Osteospermum 'Asti White" end 02
Petunia 'Tidal Wave Silver' mid 03
Portulaca 'Sundial Pink' mid 03
Salvia farinacea 'Mini Victoria' mid 03
Verbena 'Quartz Burgundy/eye XP' mid 03
Zinnia 'Uproar Rose' mid 03

I pinch back the top leaves after they grow their 3rd or so set of true leaves to help them bush out. Hope this is of some help.
Karen

Hi Karen/Tanglee, Welcome to DG!

Yes, thanks for the list! Look slike you will have a realy pretty garden -- I like all the things you chose. If I am reading it right, you don't start until mid-Februry, and you start with:

Hibiscus
Alternanthera
and
Gazania

That's interesting. I think I get such an earlier start because the things that do well here in summer are the things that like a lot of heat.

Thanks for the list!

Suzy

Hi Suzy, Thanks for the welcome. Yes, that's right about what I start in February. I used to start annuals like salvia and impatiens and the beginning of March, but they got too big for my lights and then I ended up having to cut them back which would set the flowering back anyway. We lived in Montreal up till last August and it just wasn't worth the risk of losing the annuals to plant them before May 20th. Mother Nature could fool you into planting early when there would be a warm spell at the beginning of May and then it could go down to below freezing at night and people would lose the tender annuals. After all that TLC of raising them from seed I wasn't going to take the risk! Now we're in the Toronto area where it doesn't get as cold and spring comes earlier I'm going to find out if I can start earlier. I start the Hibiscus "Red Shield' early because it doesn't flower till fall and if it's started late the frost comes in the fall before it flowers.

Karen

hello, I was just reading your sowing info...thanks Suzy...love your choices tanglee! I just got the royal tapestry and I didn't realize Alternanthera should get started so early. I checked another pkt I have here for Salvia Bonfire and it also says to start Feb 1-15 but after reading your post I wonder, since it is a salvia, if I should wait a bit longer?

Just fyi, last year I started angelonia in March and it flowered all summer; I didn't note when the blooms started though.

Hi Wind, The seed catalogue I ordered the Alternanthera from, Stokes, says it takes 11-12 weeks "from sowing to finished 4" pots". Since I figure I can plant outside by about May 16, that's why I'm going to sow it in Feb. I checked the same catalogue for Salvia 'Bonfire'. The same advice is given for all salvias, plant in mid Feb. for combination pots, whatever that means, or March 15th for May-June sales. Mid March has worked for me with both Salvia farinacea and the more common red salvia. If I plant them any earlier I always have to pinch them back before planting and then wait for a few weeks for flowering. I haven't grown Anternanthera before, it looks like a beautiful plant! Karen

Well I wasn't sure about the Gazania, when I should start them, I just hate it when I'm fighting the plants touching the lights at the end just before I take them out and have this trouble a lot with the geraniums and dahlias, I'm not growing any dahlias this year but this is my first year for Gazania for a neighbor and wondering how fast those grow, I did add a couple more inches to my height on a couple of stands this year lol Those darn tomatoes always get too tall too at the end before I take them outside too since I'm not selling this year I think I will start those a little later lol

I'm trying to start these this week I'm running behind because of life getting in the way this year!
Lantana
Velvet Inight
Lianthus
Hosta
Succulent’s
Geraniums
Begonas
Pansies
Violets

I'm not much of a pincher I always have trouble finding the spot to pinch at lol I'm never sure which ones to pinch either, I had some impatens last year I pinched and they never started blooming until it was too late to enjoy the bloom so that made me even more nervous about pinching!

hi LeBug!
...so lantana and hosta should be started now too?

I've had one Lantana seed germinate for me in four years so I am not the one to even ask that question if you are Wind lol but I do remember it took forever to grow maybe mine just wasn't as happy as I wanted it to be downstairs :) And I started hosta seeds one other time too but they were outside and took a while to get some size on them so thought I would start them earlier this time too. Myself I'd like to start some columbines downstairs too if I had the room lol I don't care if they bloom which they won't this year I just like their foliage, I started some last year downstairs but I won't know how many seeds I will have for downstairs until I get the seeds from Suzy's swap lol

I have done both if it's any help, Wind -- I always thought hostas (along with daylililies, I have a lot of friends who grow both) need 2 months of winterchill, so wintersowing is just easier than the refrigerator.

The Lanana wants heat and lots of it. I'm going to start mine this week by soaking the seeds in warm/hot water for 24 hours. I use about 150 degree water, which is way hotter than your bathtub (about 105) but way warmer than boiling (210?). I just use a coffee cup, and change out the water several times so it stays sort of warm. I sow in a closed container with some vent holes over a heat mat and they germinate in 5-10 days or so. (That last part about the number of days is from memory)

I probably should mention that my Lantana seeds still have the berry around them. If yours are bare nekked, I'm not sure they need the hot water soak. I have no idea.

Lantana and Lantana seedlings grow very slowly until the temperatures rise. The basement is a poor spot for it, even though that's where I grow it, so your set up will be ideal. I put mine out last year and it was only 5" tall, but it grew really fast once it hit the nice warm ground.

Suzy

Suzy, when do you WS your hostas? I didn't know you could do it. do you wait until about March? I guess they would be good to WS I do have some of the older green ones that reseed sometimes.

No, they would be one of the first wave of hardy perennials. So, when I get around to it -- say, sometime in early Feb. (I just got some seeds from Mao, but as you know I haven't opened any of my envelopes. But I imagine I'll soe them next week.)

You know what? I just looked it up
http://www.hosta.ca/about_seed.htm
and there is no cold strat needed...what am I thinking about? I guess I'm confused because I have a friend who is a hybridizer here locally and I thought I remembered her telling me about harvesting seed in July-Sept, 90 days chill, then bring them inside and she gains a whole year. BUT SHE MUST HAVE BEEN TAKING ABOUT A DIFFERENT PLANT! SO SORRY! She grows a lot of different things, and in fact, she's the one who got me on Dave's, but we are rarely in the same forums!

Suzy

Well you know those instructions do sound familar though wonder what it's to lol

That was some very interesting reading, and when I plant my hostas I'll just put a couple of inches of soil in the seed tray, just seems like that wouldn't be enough but that makes sense about the roots then maybe they will grow faster! You know hostas do need cold treatment after they are germinated like I will probably pot mine up this fall and put them in one of my little big lots greenhouses where they will be sheltered. I hope they will be alright in one of those lol

Indoor planting schedules can vary depending on your growing climate. For instance, I can't safely set plants out til June 1st around here, so I don't have to start some seeds as early as many of you. On the other hand, I start most everything inside and give them a good head start, because our season is generally over in September. I've already started pelargonium (annual geranium), and I'll be starting my artichokes, leeks, dianthus, petunias, peppers, salpiglossis, violas and pansies, hardy geranium oregano, marjoram and slow growing mints in early February. Lobelia should have already been planted, but it got out of hand early last year, so I plant it in early February, as well.

hi Weez :) I always wanted to try leeks but never have yet...at a French pastry shop I used to work, the family always grew leeks in their garden.

artichokes? do you actually get artichokes?

decisions, decisions...I have violas and dianthus to get going what should I do; WS or start them indoors?