I hear you, now if I can just retain the information. I thought it was sucking energy from the rest of the plant. Soon they will be in the ground and it won't be so tempting to mess with them. Thank you AL
Ficus Fotos For Prune-o-Fobes
Think of the leaves as workers, producing food for the plant. If you fire them, not as much food will be made & the plant won't be able to grow as fast.
In one respect, you're correct. The smaller branches won't grow as fast as they would if the top was removed, but growth is measured in the increase in biomass. The o/a biomass will increase MUCH faster, and the trunk will thicken much more quickly if you treat the part you want to cut off as a 'sacrifice' branch to be removed later.
Lol - I have many trees that are ready for pots that are already perfect little bonsai trees, except for that sacrifice branch (or two) that sticks up/out 2-3 ft above the 8-10 inch tree.
Your tree - your call. There are no bonsai police that will come and pull your bonsai license for enjoying your trees as you wish. ;o)
Al
Like this one, I won it as a door prize at my bonsai meet. I'm pretty sure it's a Japanese Maple. I've had it in dappled shade for about 2 months.
OK Am I having fun yet? This one is a beaut.
Thank goddness I just re-read about your Larch. BTW, is a great looking tree.
Below is a Green Island Fig. I've been trying to figure out which one to use as the new leader, how much to cut off and what to leave as the sacrifice.
1= my first choice for new leader
2= second choice
s=sacrafice
x= chop it off
The big X to the right is off already. I think this is the final choice. Unless I have to have more sacrafice branches.
I believe once this tree is done the rest are going to be easier.
Remember that here in florida we are having our "second summer". Everything has been hot and dormant (practically) and they are getting their second flush of growth. Like springtime.
W/o being there to actually SEE the tree and get a look at the root position (the roots determine the front or back of the plant, though you can change that if you're willing to start cuttings and start grafting them to the tree for their roots) it wouldn't be right for me to advise you on what might be good ways to take your tree. I could talk in circles for a while, but I'd just be blowing smoke.
I can tell you that this tree back-buds profusely. That you have foliage (it appears) only at branch ends is a pretty good sign it's badly rootbound. The color appears to be leaning toward yellow as well, which could mean it needs N, which is also supported by the fact there are no lateral breaks (buds emerging behind the foliage tufts at the ends of branches).
If it was my tree, I would repot (includes root pruning/bare rooting) and get the plant into an appropriate soil. I would wait until new growth has resumed and the tree has gained some energy. I would then cut every branch with 4 or more leaves back to 2 leaves./ This will force profuse back-budding and give you something to work with - foliage closer to the trunk. Then, take your tree to your club meeting and seek some hands-on advice from one of the knowledgeable members.
Al
I expect the back budding, and the yellow is either the camera coming out from the AC or from the tinting of the roof of the shadehouse.
I'm not big on feeding plants unless they are indoors. There should be plenty of nitrogen in the air with the storms we've been having. And there are a couple of worm bins, my little pets, that I distribute when it's ready.
So, this plant was so packed that there was no sun getting to the middle. I now have 16 new Green Island to mess with and share. Including 6 Golden Gate, 4 nerfifolia, and benjamina weeping and curly, too many to count. The big ones, rubber tree have too much sap flowing, I'll wait a month.
With the Green Island I've changed my mind again. Final decision is to keep branch #1 instead of #2. And I've just got to do it, I'll learn from my mistakes. At least I'm on the right track. I've got 16 more to do different things to...
check out these photos
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/155552/
OK - have fun. Please don't depend on atmospherically fixed N as your sole source of N - it isn't even close to adequate; and by-products of worms (vermipost and worm castings) are also very low in NPK, not to mention the fact that the fine particulates they are composed of are detrimental to aeration and drainage, physical properties of soil you'll eventually learn to guard judiciously as your bonsai journey progresses.
Good luck.
Al
I did have fun. I think I over did it with the roots. And thanks for the info. I read and save stuff about nutrition but it's sooo boring. But I'm getting there.