My peaches get rot before ripe

Tampa, FL(Zone 10a)

I have a peach in the side yard that is disease and pest free, but, for the second year in a row the fruit had problems. It is three years old.

The problem with the fruit not ripening properly is a puzzle for me. The local extension websites are not helpful. The tree sets fruit and the first few peaches are of good quality. Then the later fruit begins to get a soft spot at the top which spreads inside and the fruit drops before it is ripe. I have tried picking them before they develop the soft spot and ripen them in the house, didn't work, the spot always developes before it is good to eat. The problem is very consistent because it always starts at the highest point on the fruit and moves downward, even if i pick the fruit a little early and turn it on its side the rot developes at the high point from when the peach was on the tree. There are no signs of insects or virus/bacteria. It is always rotting from top to bottom on the inside of the fruit.

Anyone every had this problem? Anyone know what to do?

La Grange, TX(Zone 8b)

It's probably Brown Rot.

http://plant-disease.ippc.orst.edu/disease.cfm?RecordID=790
http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/dp_hfrr/extensn/problems/pchbrnrt.htm

"What can you do about it?

Once you see signs of infection with fungal brown rot in your peach and nectarine trees you will want to spray any uninfected blossoms on the stone fruit trees with a chlorothalonin or triforine containing fungicide. Repeat the application again approximately ten days after the first application. This method usually helps prevent further infection from spreading to uninfected blooms. You should then remove any infected fruits, mummies, twigs, and areas of bark which show lesions. Often you can prune out the infected cakerous lesions rather than having to cut off an entire limb. However, be sure that you have sprayed first so that any spores you stir up in your pruning and removal efforts are not spread to uninfected areas of the tree. After harvest be sure to clean all debris and check again for fallen fruits which could turn into mummies harboring the fungus. Often previously hidden lesions will be easier to see once the harvest has been had, and the tree begins fall defoliation. Prune out any existing cankers and then in the spring be sure to treat the peach and nectarine trees, as well as surrounding foliage in case you missed any overwintering areas of fungal spores."

Tampa, FL(Zone 10a)

Betty Dee,

I checked on the brown rot, don't think that is it. There aren't any cankers on the trees and the fruit gets soft from the inside to the outside. The peaches look beautiful on the outside and are soft and mushy inside, then they turn into liquid inside, that exits the fruit as clear sticky juice. The fruit then falls to the ground with a splat. Doesn't appear to be any insects or larvae in the fruit.

I do spray the trees in early winter and again in early spring with dormant oil. At the end of this year I will try some fungicide also.

La Grange, TX(Zone 8b)

Maybe this key to peach and nectarine diseases will help:
http://www.caf.wvu.edu/kearneysville/wvufarm6.html


Tampa, FL(Zone 10a)

Betty,

Thank you so much. I would never have found that site on my own. After a little searching and reading and following links I found 'Ask an expert' and sent the info that I have so far. I read all kinds of 'stuff' about the different diseases and insects, nothing seemed to fit my problem even closely.

I will post any info or conversations I have with them on this thread. They said they would respond in 5 business days.

Baltimore, MD

Dale, I would still say you have brown rot. You don't have to get all the symptoms. And whatever it is, it is a disease that starts early since it is inside the fruit, and so the key is to spray a fungicide 2-3 times next spring: e.g. at pink, full bloom, and shuck split. I got the same kind of brown rot a few years ago before I was spraying my peaches and plums.

Scott

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