Germinating old tomato seeds

I have a few tomato seeds of an unknown heirloom variety that were given to me last fall by a friend from New Mexico. These seeds were saved from the 2002 crop. They are said to be a very productive and tasty Roma-type paste tomato that was named after a gardener named Al Cavis, who brought in a specimen to a Master Gardener Fair for identification. Does anyone know anything about this tomato and does anyone have advice about germinating these old seeds. I have kept them sealed and in cool dry place. I intend to sow them indoors soon in time for transplanting in March.

They should germinate without much problem...I did some 1994 seeds last year and got 100% on one variety and 80% on the other.

Here's a trick for waking up old tomato seeds.....make you some 1/2 strength Miracle Gro....take a cup of plain water and add about 1/4 cup of the blue stuff. This gives you a VERY dilute solution. Put your seeds in and soak overnight...or up to 24 hours..(depending on what time of day you plant them.)

Plant in sterile mix...(NOT potting soil)

Now when they start to germinate, chances are, there will be a greater amount of 'pinheads' than you are used to. The seed coats are tougher, and the cotyledons have trouble pushing them off. Don't fret, just put a blob of saliva on the end of each one that looks like it's having trouble....you may have to use the spit for a few days....several times a day, but the enzymes in the spit will help soften the seed coat....you can help it along very carefully if you like, but don't pull and tug.

Chances are, with 02 seeds, you'll be fine though...tomato seeds are quite viable for many years kept in the conditions you describe.

Melody, thanks, your experience is encouraging. I have only 15 seeds and will start them soon for transplanting outdoors in early March (Dallas Zone 8A). Will post results.

Do two sets of seeds....half each time...then if disaster strikes, you've not lost everything.

I never start every single seed of a rare variety at the same time...anything can happen between seed and fruit....hail, cutworms, flood, kids, cat, disease....Best to keep a few in reserve.

Let us know how you get on Melody

tumble weed...did you have good fortune with the seeds?

Wondered if you could give us a follow-up.

Shoe

Wanted to let you know that I started the Al Cavis seeds on Jan 14 in 3 ounce Dixie cups using Miracle Gro seed starting mix. Only had 15 seeds so I placed 2 seeds per cup. Pre-soaked them about 6 hours. Germinated Jan. 20, now about 2 inches high.

You could say that I got mixed results. Starting at the top going clockwise, one long and leggy, one so-so,
one not-so-bad, one late sprout, and one O.K. Other varieties started at the same time gave about 90% or better germination. They are all under flo lamps about 16 hours per day. Room air temp is about 70-75 degrees and remp under the lamps is 80-85 degrees.

Would like to hear suggestions about when to up-pot, and to what size pot. My target for transplant to garden is mid-March (Dallas Zone 8A).

tumbleweed. congrats on the germination.

If it were me though I'd grow them on at cooler temperatures than what you have them at. Higher temps are great for germination but it's best to continue growing them on at around 65-70º.

Some folks will pot up when the first true leaves appear but I think you'll be safer letting the first true leaves grow big (not just show themselves) and even let those seedlings grow two sets of true leaves, mainly because they are in cups big enough to allow them to safely grow without being "root stunted".

Again, congratulations!

Shoe

I agree with Shoe -- cooler temps, if you can. Perhaps getting a fan going will keep the temps under the lights a little cooler. After germination, I usually grow the seedlings on in an unheated garage (works great if garage stays in the 50's) . Not this January, though, because of that cold snap and now no sun to warm the garage! Had to put them in the office.

I also agree with him in regards to waiting for the second set of true leaves. At the very least, I like to wait until that second set has started to show. When it's time, would suggest you repot in a soilless mix (not potting soil), use 4 inch pots, bury them deep -- especially those lanky ones.

You could use a larger pot, but I find I get better root development when seedings are not "overpotted" for their size. In other words, I would rather pot up to a 4 inch pot, then have to turn around and repot again to a quart or half-gallon pot a couple of weeks later.

Suze and Shoe,

I will use a small fan to reduce the temps. Thanks.

I have a new bag of Jiffy mix and will use that for up-potting.

Please clarify - what do you mean by a 4 inch cup? Is that 4 inches diameter at the top, or 4 inches high?

I was considering using a 9 ounce or a 16 ounce cup. I also have some "606 Deep Flat Inserts" (plastic pot packsfrom the Potting Bench) that have 2-1/4 x 2 x 3-1/4 inch cell size. Which do you recommend?

What I use for my first potting up is the square pots that fit in a 20 count nursery flat, like when you go buy annuals at the nursery. They are ~3.5 to 4 inches wide and high, like so: http://davesgarden.com/pf/showimage/107187/

But your 9 or even 16 ounce cups are fine too (close enough). Just don't pot right up to a gallon pot, if you know what I mean. The reason is that roots like some oxygen; they don't like to be waterlogged. An appropriate size container lets them dry out enough that they can 'breathe'. Also, roots tend to follow/grow to a water source, and if they are in a large wet container, they may not develop as well. Hope that made sense. ;o)

I lived in the metroplex until recently, btw, and grew tomatoes there for years. For a mid-March plant out date, which is about right - subject to the long-range forecast, you'll need to pot up one more time. Don't let the plants get too pot bound. I would usually pot up to a ~32 oz container about the third week of Feb, and then take them outside to start hardening off.

My 98 year old gardening guru told me a good technique for planting seedlings that have gotten leggy. She suggested that you make a trench that angles up to the soil level; place the root ball in the deepest part of the trench and lay the leggy stem in the trench with the leafy part of the stem above the soil at the soil-level end of the little trench. She said that more roots will form along the stem that is underground in the trench. I tried her technique with some seedlings that got leggy during transport from Florida (probably started them too early, as it was still too cool to plant them when I got to NH). The plants did fine. Hope this helps!