Cuttings without roots.

Hello,

I was wondering if anyone could help me please. When I try to make cuttings, often I can get the cutting to sprout leaves however when I try to check on how the roots are doing there always is no roots at all. The growth of the leaves makes me think that the cutting is working out, however when I check on the roots, there are none at all, even after several weeks. If anyone knows what I am doing wrong or if this is normal please let me know.

Thank you very much,

wes

When this happens, do the cuttings eventually get roots, or do they turn up their toes & die?

I don't generally see much growth on cuttings until after they've rooted, so I'm not sure how to advise you. I'd say that if you're seeing some new growth, that's a good sign that the cutting is taking up water and nutrients from the soil, and if you're patient, roots should follow.

Some plants do this. Its very frustrating. I have had abutilon put on new growth and actually bloom, then when I repot there are not roots at all. I have found that when I have this happen, that cutting always roots. In my experience the ones that die usually do so quicker. So just be patient and you should have roots soon. Check for callus on the base of the stem, a swollen white growth, if you have that roots are coming soon.
Rebecca
Abutilon will sometimes take a few months to root, there are others that are slow as well.

wes2, are you using rooting hormone? also what medium are you using? I use 1/2 vermiculite, 1/2 perlite, with bottom heat from heat mat, I talked to a nursery about the bottom heat, they say it should be 5% warmer than outside air. so I bought a heat mat. it made all the difference. also i sterilize the medium in my microwave and dip my cuttings in 10% bleach before putting them in rooting hormone, then sticking them in medium. the cuttings that you had growth in without rooting was because there were enough carbohydrates in the stem for growth. lol, hostajim1

I propagate just like hostajam. And of course it depends very much on what you're trying to root. The time of the year is critical as well (once again depending upon what you're rooting).

You also want to keep your cuttings misted and without fungus. That's why hostajam used bleach as a dip. You may also find that some chemical control is necessary.

Microwaving is another good point. I also do that. 50 -50 perlite/peat is a great medium as mentioned...

Rooting hormones vary. I use hormex #8 for most everything. 'Dip and Grow' is also popular and is another I'd recommend.

You also have to remember that not everything can be rooted. Therefore, I also graft "woody material."

You need to know your plant material, the timing when it propagates best, etc.

Take care,

Dax

Thanks for all the information. I normally use some of the Schult's rooting powder stuff. I suppose the cuttings will eventually root but I guess it might just take weeks and months. This same thing often happens with whatever I am trying to grow from cuttings. Leaves will develope and sometimes even a small branch will shoot up, yet when I check the roots there are none. I moved them to a darker place, because I started to think maybe they are not in enough shade. I really do not know much about it. Because I have kept having this problem I have been thinking of trying other types of cuttings like root cuttings. But I would really like for the stem cuttings to work because I know that they should.

Thank you very much,

wes

Oh absolutely wes, I'm sorry I didn't mention that (cuttings can take many, Many, MANY months to root). I stuck hardwood cuttings of conifers (Thuja, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Platycladus) in December and they weren't rooted until April. Other conifers that root from hardwood and semi-hardwood are: Juniperus (most all), Tsuga, Metasequoia (also softwood for Metasequoia).

Light: a must! Too much heat - not good (shade cloth helps considerably for greenhouses). When the cuttings do begin growing, be sure to give them absolutely as much light as possible.

Tell me what you imply when you say "stem cuttings". Are they softwood, semi-hardwood, or hardwood? (I have to assume your're talking about softwood being the time of the year it is, but better to ask than not to) Also, what is it you're trying to root? That hasn't even been discussed yet.

Dax

I stand corrected about the lighting conditions. You may need shade for some things. Clematis, I learned (which I'm attempting this summer) needs a shaded greenhouse/bagged in shade, etc. See link for further information regarding Clematis and a few others.

My apologies,

Dax

http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles0702/climber_prop.asp

I'm glad I checked for my own sake! Thanks..:) I would have been out of business - so to speak, that is, as I'm just a backyard hobbyist.

I think they are softwood or semi-hard. Some of them might be considered hardwood. Among the things I am trying to root and have tried this with are cherry trees, blueberry plants, olive trees, citrus trees, peach trees and a few other things. I try it with various plants that I have and would not mind having more of. Practice is good also. So far I always get this to happen but no roots. Some things I try like softwood grape cuttings rot very quickly and do not work. Root cuttings or layering would probably be best for them. Other things, like what I listed I will try and they will grow shoots and small leaves but no roots. I think that it is only been a few months so many the best thing to figure is that there has not been enough time. Perhaps I will see if the do better or worse in the shade. Perhaps they need even more sunlight than they already have. As I said, I really do not know much about it, and have yet to successfully root a single cutting.

Thank you very much,

wes

Peach should root if my memory serves me right.

Cherry - will not (once again relying on memory and of plants I wasn't interested in rooting/grafting at the time I was reading about them) - 'The Grafters Handbook' which primarily discusses fruit trees. I do recall them mentioning rooted cuttings, however, for use as future understock.

Blueberries - 'root very easily from softwood cuttings - peat/perlite - misting - 80% in six weeks.' - Bottom heat, better yet (Dirr).

Here's what (Dirr) says about Prunus (Cherries, Peaches, Plums, Apricots, Almonds):
PROPAGATION: Prunus seeds have an embyo dormancy and require a period of after-ripening to overcome it; generally 2to 3 months at 40F will suffice/ seeds can also be cleaned and sown outdoors in fall with germination occuring the follow spring. Cuttings show variable response depending on the species and cultivar; there is some indication that NAA may be more effectie on Prunus than IBA but it is best to start with IBA and then experiment with NAA; in my own work, I have found the purple-leaf types easy to root with 1000 to 3000 ppm quick dip; (...) I know nursery men who are producing 'Kwanzan', P. x yedoensis and others from softwood cuttings; from a practical standppoint it is better to establish many Prunus on their own roots to avoid possible graft incompatabilities; at Shadow Nursery, Winchester, TN, I have seen two-year-old rooted 'Kwanzan' cherries in the field that were 6 to 8 feet high; tremendous movement to own-root cherry and plum; slightly firmer cuttings seem to root in higher percentages than extremely sof May-June material, rooted cuttings will grow if lightly fertilized, overwintering does not appear to be a problem.

Good luck wes.