We have a west facing hill that we want to turn to a no mow hill. We hope to plant the south (right) side of the hill this summer. It gets 5-6 hours of sun in the summer. It also does not keep a snow cover in the winter.
As you see the hill is fairly steep and we have found that anything tall just can't stand upright. What I have been thinking of is a low 1-2' spreading evergreen. What would you suggest? Or would you suggest something else?
I really like Microbiota dessucata (sp?). I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow.
Scott
Juniperus horizontalis 'Wiltonii' or blue rug juniper is a low growing carpeting evergreen that can be vacuumed clean, with a leaf blower of course! You may even be able to stick plants through it eventually, it really holds the soil well.
Consider a colorful mid-sized prairie grass, like little bluestem? Or a complete miniature hill prairie planting?
Guy S.
scott and prairiegirl I checked on both of them and they both spread a lot which is what I need. Do you think it looks best to stay with one type in mass or put two or three together? I don't mean these two, there is much to much size difference.
Guy, I have played around with the prairie idea, and keep going back to it. I just keep getting stuck on trying to find mostly short plants. I have looked at some of the no mow native grass mixes that stay short. The one I am looking at for part of our lawn is a mix of 6 slow growing fescue varieties from Prairie Nursery in Wisconsin.
I started looking at evergreens for some variety.
The park across the street from our home has a nice large section of native plants. Minneapolis has been doing more and more of this. They are also encouraging home owners to go to native plants. I have winter sown a lot this year.
Any other ideas out there?
Pauline
I agree with Decumbent's Microbiota d. Roads & Highways use it for exactly that type of planting and they look good.
growin, thank you.
Pauline, the Microbiota is my favorite low (up to 3') spreading (4-5') conifer mostly because it is so versatile, sun and shade. I use it as a foundation planting, feathering off the natives before you get right up to the house, with all the surronding forest its pretty much dappled shade most of the day and junipers just don't do well in shade. We also put them as a mass planting on a south facing slope under the cemetery enter and exit signs, as opposite a situation as my dappled shade that you can get. Both applications doing excellent. Be aware these change color in the winter to a grey with maroon tint but bounce back quickly to green in the spring and summer. Pretty cheap and plentiful, but not exactly ground huggers like a blue rug. Ken
Never seen even an 18 inch height on Microbiota, unless you're talking about that particular cultivar-Jacob something. My plants stay 6-10". Very nice though. Stays pretty green through the winter in shadier spots, and turns the gray-mauve in sunnier spots. You will see them when you come, Pauline. Little (and Big) bluestem used as an ornamental too. 4-5 ft might be a good width to work with for the Microbiota, but of course, everything just keeps on growing. The first one I planted close to 20 years ago is probably about 15 ft wide, winding through other conifers.
Rick
Here are some pictures of Microbiota decussata:
Scott
Another...
Scott
And foliage.
Scott
I should add that this site is sun from midday on. Microbiota is terribly prone to wilting until it is established, after that carefree. In the picture are three plants, installed about five years ago. Foliage bronzes some in winter.
Scott
The Microbiota looks like it might just be what I want I like the look of it.
If it were mine (I covet topography, my garden is almost perfectly flat.) I'd terrace it with contour terraces, and make it all beds. Every third level is a woodchip path to tend the terraces above and below.
Ok, Ok, I'm not going to get out my growing stick to measure height. It does give the appearance of being taller than it is espically compared to the juniper. 5-6 hours of sun is a whole lot of sun, no snow cover in winter would bring on the "off" color. I just wanted Pauline to be aware of the color change because someone came up to me in town just the other day to say: sorry you lost ALL your plantings under the cemetery signs. Still my number uno shrub conifer! Ken
Pauline,
I did an experiment with grasses last year, tore out my overgrown yews and tried one of everything, LOL. I'm here to tell you, grasses are best used as accents, or en masse, no in between. Little bluestem, and some of the taller grasses will lodge, which I think you will hate the look of, like a straw mat on your hillside. I think you'll be much happier with a juniper or the microbiota. I would stick with one type, as the object is to not draw attention to the individual plants, if that makes sense. At the college I attend, we grow a plot of buffalo grass, it's very interesting in that it has these little seedheads on it. It's browner, cause it's a warm season grass. Also, it looks lumpier than bluegrass, since it's spread by runners. I would be curious to see how it worked for you.
Lot's of info to work with. PrairieGirl I checked out the buffalo grass and got a wide variety of images there must be more than one variety.
When we first moved in we checked into terracing it, we would have had to take out a second mortgage. I am going to post what happens to the left of the photo what you see is only the beginning of the hill that would have been terraced. The goal is to get all of the hills to a no mow state.
I was recently measuring the slope in my yard for a rain garden workshop that I was taking and that hill drops 5'6" in 15 feet. a 44% slope.
This photo is directly to the left of the first one. It drops 5' in 10' for a 98% slope.
This is the next shot running toward the back of the house.
And the last shot on that side of the house.
Woops I sent it too soon. This one drops 4' 8" in 16'. Needless to say we have a lot of slope to take car of. This section isn't as hard to mow so it will be the last to loose it's grass.
To make up for all of this hill we have a beautiful creek with a park that is on both the north and west sides of our house. There are enough trees to forget that we live in the middle of a city. The right side of this photo has my sculpture studio.
This photo was taken a few years ago, that garden is much more developed. I had forgotten how small that cherry tree was.
This message was edited Apr 20, 2006 7:41 AM
It's a gorgeous piece of property. Heaven for a wannabe stone worker and a few large piles of nice cobblestones and such.
I'd start with a poured footer and a cobblestone knee-wall at the edge of the sidewalk, with appropriate drains. Build it about 2' high, and start cutting into the hill, turning the sod over on sawdust, and filling in with soil.
Continue the process up the hills. Each retaining wall will be a different type of stone.
I see it as a 7-year plan. ;>}
How about Taxus baccata repandens...I have seen that around here and always looks good..not like the "typical " yew.
I hadn't added that the two trees that you only see the trunks of are oaks. Between the two of them the canopy more than covers our property. I would be afraid that we would have to cut too many roots if we put in stone terracing. They are beautiful and I would hate to loose them. We could go with wall starting where the house starts and going back. Since neither my husband or myself could do it we would have to hire it done or convince our son to become a stonemason rather than go to collage next year.
Actually that might not be a bad idea, stone masons make a lot of money. The wall you see in the last photo is around half of a cobble stone patio that we had put in along with a cobble stone path down the south side of the house. We didn't need that second mortgage, but it was close.
levilyla your Taxus baccata repandens suggestion came in as I was typing the above response. I checked it out it is lovely. Being 4' tall would it work alright along the side walk? I am wondering if people walking by would get scratched, we get a lot of walkers all year round with the park there.
Taxus baccata 'Repandens' has soft, user-friendly foliage that won't scratch anyone the first summer. Its also a female selection with decorative red arils. But by the next summer, when it's deader than a doornail from your gawd-awful Minnesota winter, it will be dry and scratchy!
Guy S.
Guy, sounds like you don't think much of our winters, I don't either. Fortunately Minneapolis is a great place to live, especially for the artist in me.
Thanks for the heads up, I hadn't noticed that it was zone 5. With the no snow cover on my hill and the wind that can whip up I will stay away from that. I tend to look for zone 3 plants for the hills.
I like color and contrast, the whole nine yards.
Here are some conifers that would be zone 4 hardy:
Taxus cuspidata 'Aurescens'; And definition from the American Conifer Society: "Semi-dwarf, low spreading, golden foliage, full sun for best color."
Picea abies 'Repens'
Size Description (ACS): "Dwarf: 1-6" (8-15cm) per yr., 3-6' (90cm-1.8m) at 10 yrs."
A specimen at Bickelhaupt Arboretum of Clinton, Iowa is only 2 feet across @ 15 years. (Sun)
Juniperus communis 'Berkshire'
(ACS) "Very dwarf, slow growing, dense flat mound, dark green, blue striated foliage, plum in winter." (Sun)
Juniperus squamata 'Prostrata'
(ACS) "Prostrate form with blue foliage that eventually mounds in the center. This species is resistant to Phomopsis tip blight that is so troubling with the Juniperus horizontalis cultivars. Often confused with Juniperus procumbens that is NOT resistant to phomopsis needle blight."
Microbiota decussata (Russian Cypress)
(Tolerates very well quite a bit of shade which is a major bonus)
Juniperus procumbens 'Nana'
(ACS) "Prostrate or Ground Covering" (Sun)
Photo of Picea abies 'Gregoryana' and J. p. 'Nana' below.
Picea abies 'Saint James'
(ACS) "Miniature: < 1" (2.5cm) per yr., < 1' (30cm) at 10 yrs; Light Green."
(You don't want all big plants, if you understand what I'm saying) - (Sun)
Picea pungens 'Glauca Prostrata'
(ACS) "Intermediate: 6-12" (15-30cm) per yr., 6-15' (1.8-4.5m) at 10 yrs." (Sun)
Tsuga canadensis 'Brookline'
(ACS) "Mounding, Arching, or Weeping "
Here again a conifer that can be planted in sun or tolerates very well shadier spots as do all Tsuga's.
Picea pungens 'Gotelli Prostrate'
In my opinion the very best (dense and flat) "Blue Spruce" there is.
Picea pungens 'Hillside'
(ACS) "Size: Dwarf: 1-6" (8-15cm) per yr., 3-6' (90cm-1.8m) at 10 yrs. " (Sun)
Picea pungens 'Mrs. Cessarini'
This plant has always been a favorite of mine.
(ACS) "Dwarf: 1-6" (8-15cm) per yr., 3-6' (90cm-1.8m) at 10 yrs."
Pinus mugo 'Teeny'
(ACS) "Dwarf: 1-6" (8-15cm) per yr., 3-6' (90cm-1.8m) at 10 yrs; Mounding, Arching, or Weeping."
You gotta have some "Pines"
