Peas vs Squirrels vs Man

I planted peas in my EB's about a week ago and this afternoon was dismayed to find dismembered pea seeds on the surface of the soil. Am I going to have another running battle with the squirrels or chipmunks? I know I will lose some tomatoes to them, but peas? When (or better, if) I get pods will I be feeding my rodent enemies? Any solutions? I purchased a super soaker squirt gun a couple of months ago and have blasted squirrels repeatedly to keep them away from the bird feeders. I don't know that it was a very good deterrent but it sure made me feel better!!!

Try sprinkling cayenne pepper on the top of the soil. Won't hurt the plants, but it will deter the squirrels. You may need to wear rubber gloves to pick the peas, or be sure to not touch your face or eyes after coming in contact with the soil.

Squirrels and chipmunks will go after practically anything in your garden, including peas. I find that a good high-muzzle-velocity 22-caliber air rifle has a very deterrent effect on squirrels and chipmunks. HavaHart traps can also help.

MM

But the peas do come to the surface after planting often. They've set down a root, and will soon poke heads up and the little pea husk will fall off. If you see exposed peas, I don't think that means pests. Unless you mean they've been chewed up by "dismembered."

A good cat makes a big difference. We have one who's strictly a furry-animal-catcher.

Zeppy,

By "dismembered" I meant that the root and stem were not attached and the seed was split in two. We haved an abundance of squirrels so that's what led to my conclusion that they are at fault. I like the idea of spraying with cayenne pepper and will give that a try today as it is illegal to discharge a weapon in Brookline and my wife is allergic cats (I also have a philosophical issue with letting cats out as they are major predators, nonnatural, on songbirds).

Wonder why they didn't just eat the pea entirely. Sorry about your plants. We have had some luck with the hot pepper and garlic combination to keep furries away in the past.

I understand your issue with the cats. We long ago agreed that the day this one catches a bird (he brings all kills to the door) we'll bring him in. He was raised with birds and chickens so I wonder if that's why he doesn't hunt them.

don't have trouble with squirrels in the garden just with birdfeeders. using a tbl of hot pepper flakes mixed the the birdfeed stop them cold. maybe you could wpringle some on the peas.

EScubed--I feel your pain. I had just the broccoli and cabbage flowerheads neatly sliced off by what I suspect was either squirrels or rats this fall for the first time (the trees where I live are just now big enough to support a squirrel population--we were a "little house on the prairie" when the house was built 12 years ago) last fall after "coddling and babying" the plants thru the heat and drought of our fall. Really frustrating! And nothing's better than spring peas for eating!

Zeppy and Herbie--since hot peppers and garlics I got; that's going to cover everything this fall! So far, so good, with the green tomatoes (gulp).....now I'm getting worried about my spring green beans since they are about to begin producing...(double gulp).

Debbie

The remaining peas are germinating and I guess about half were squirrel food. But as I finally read the EB recommendation for pea planting I had over planted by 400% (64 when they recommend 16) I am still in good shape. I'll upload a few pictures later. Thanks for the pepper sauce suggestion. I'll be sprinkling liberally after the rain stops tomorrow. I still have to figure out the trellis system for the peas although I saw nice, inexpensive ones at Lowes the other day. Any thoughts from the experienced pea growers? Just how tall are they going to get?

escubed,

It depends on the type of peas you planted. Read the package; it should tell you that info & the 'Mature Date' which is usually how long the plant can live before it is exhausted out. If all else fails; google the type of peas they are. You will undoubtedly find some place on the net that sells them, they may include the height of the plant too. The pea plants may give way & die before that time, when the heat gets too strong for it to contnue. They don't live in the heat to long.

I copy & paste growing info to a text file so I can find it for later use. A good File Folder name would be "Growing Veggies."

JMO

~* Robin

Edited for 'Finger Typos'

This message was edited Apr 23, 2006 10:40 AM

This is some info I've collected from various sources:

Peas, Pisum sativum, Leguminosae Family Warm Season Vegetable

Also known as garden peas, shelling peas, snap peas, sugar peas, sugar snap peas, snow peas, Chinese peas, edible-podded peas. Like sweet corn, peas are at their tastiest immediately after harvest. Whether you choose shell or edible-pod peas, they grow best during spring and early summer when temperatures are between 60 F to 75 F.

Sunlight: full sun, part shade; Yields best in full sun.
Soil conditions: requires well-drained soil
Prefers well-drained soil, average fertility, high in organic matter with pH 6.0 to 7.0. Widely adapted, but prefers cool, damp weather. Good soil structure is important. Avoid compacting soil by working it when it’s still too wet.
Lifecycle: annual.
Ease-of-care: easy.
Height: 1 to 8 feet.
Spread: 0.5 to 1 feet.
Bloom time: mid-spring, late spring, early summer, mid-summer.
Flower color: violet or white.
Foliage color: light green, blue-green.
Foliage texture: fine; Leafless varieties are particularly fine.
Shape: climbing / vine.
Shape in flower: like all peas
Tolerates: frost - Can tolerate moderate freezes. Less sensitive to freezing in spring than in fall. Light damage to shoots can actually encourage more secondary shoots and result in more pods per plant.
Special characteristics: not native to North America - Domesticated by Neolithic farmers in the Near East at least 8,000 to 9,000 years ago.

Seed can be saved 3 years.
Special uses: edible landscaping.
How to plant: Propagate by seed.
Germination temperature: 40 F to 85 F - Optimum around 75 F.
Days to emergence: 9 to 13 - 9 days when soil is 60 F. 13 days at 50 F. May take as long as 4 to 5 weeks at 40 F.

Maintenance and care: Sow seed in spring as soon as you can work the soil - as early as late March or early April (for my Zone 5b)depending on how quickly the soil warms and dries. Peas planted in cold soil (40 F) are slow to germinate. Later plantings made when the soil is warmer (60 F or more) often catch up quickly with earlier plantings. Use raised beds if your soil is slow to drain.

Make additional plantings through early- to mid- May, or plant varieties with different maturity dates to increase the harvest period.

Plant seeds 1 to 2 inches deep, 1 to 4 inches apart in rows 18 inches apart. Or sow about 1 inch apart in a 3-inch-wide band (about 25 seeds per foot). Shallow planting is best when soils are cool and wet. Plant deeper if soil is dry. A quick way to seed is to make a furrow or trench with a hoe, place seed in the furrow, cover and firm. Do not thin.

Erect a trellis for tall-growing, vining types at planting using chicken wire, brush or other suitable trellis material nylon netting is best, it doesn't burn the tendrils. If trellising, increase row spacing to 4 to 6 feet. If growing in ground.

Tendrils: http://davesgarden.com/terms/go/915.html

Keep soil moist, but avoid heavy watering during flowering, which can interfere with pollination.
Intercrop peas with fast-growing cool-season crops such as spinach or radishes. After final harvest, follow with late squash plantings or fall-harvested cool-season crops such as broccoli, leeks or potatoes.
Sow fall crops about 8 to 10 weeks before first frost date. Fall crops can be disappointing if hot weather persists. Powdery-mildew-resistant varieties are best for fall crops.

Do not use high-nitrogen fertilizers. Too much nitrogen will result in lush foliage but poor flowering and fruiting. Inoculation with rhizobia bacteria may be beneficial if peas have not been grown in the past.

Do not plant peas in the same place more than once in every 4 years. Avoid planting where in places where peas have suffered before from root rot.

Pests:

Aphids - A hard stream of water can be used to remove aphids from plants. Wash off with water occasionally as needed early in the day. Check for evidence of natural enemies such as gray-brown or bloated parasitized aphids and the presence of alligator-like larvae of lady beetles and lacewings.

Seedcorn maggot - Avoid heavy manure or organic matter in the garden as they attract maggot flies and encourage egg laying.

Diseases:

Seed decay and seedling root rot & Wilt - Locate new plants in a part of the garden different from previous year's location. If that is not possible, remove infested soil and replace with fresh soil. Plant as early as possible. Improve soil drainage.

Powdery mildew - Avoid wetting foliage if possible. Water early in the day so aboveground plant parts will dry as quickly as possible. Avoid crowding plants. Space apart to allow air circulation. Eliminate weeds around plants and garden area to improve air circulation. Practice plant sanitation. When plants are not wet, carefully remove and destroy or discard affected plant parts. In autumn, rake and dispose of all fallen or diseased leaves and fruit.

Varieties fall into three major groups:

Shell peas (var. sativum): You remove the peas from the fibrous pod. Some varieties (petite pois) are bred to be picked when small.

Edible-podded peas (var. macrocarpon): You eat the plump pods and peas together. Often called snap peas. Snow peas belong to this group, but have flat pods.

Dry peas or field peas (var. arvense): You allow these to mature and harden, then dry, store and cook for soups and other dishes.

Look for different maturity dates and heights. Some bush varieties grow just 1 to 2 feet tall and need little or no support. Bush varieties produce a determinate number of flowers and fruit. Viny types may grow 5 to 6 feet or more and need trellising for good yields and easy picking. They continue producing an indeterminant number of flowers and fruit over a prolonged period.

If growing fall crops, look for powdery-mildew-resistant varieties.
Some varieties recommended for New York State include:

Early shell:
Sparkle
Early Market
Maestro
Little Marvel, Days to Maturity: 59-63 Shelling. 18-inch vines.
Knight
Novella
Progress No. 9
Olympia

Late shell:
Frosty
Lincoln
Green Arrow
Wando
Mr. Big - hybrid

Snow pea:

Oregon Sugar Pod II, Days to Maturity: 60-70 Snow. 4 1/2-inch pods borne on 28-inch plants. Resistant to pea virus, common wilt and powdery mildew. Also known as 'Sugar Pod 2'.
Little Sweetie
Mammoth Melting Sugar
Dwarf Gray Sugar, Days to Maturity: 57-59 Snow. Heirloom. 2 1/2-inch pods borne on 28-inch vines. Greens in 32 days and blossoms in 39 days used for garnishes and in salad mixes.

Edible pod (Snap) pea:
Sugar Ann, Days to Maturity: 52-58 Snap. Very early. 2 1/2-inch pods borne on 2-foot vines that don't need support. 1984 All-America Selection.
Early Snap
Super Sugar Mel
Sugar Snap, Days to Maturity: 62-70 Snap. 3-inch pods borne on 6-foot or taller vines that need support. Not mildew resistant. 1979 All-America Selection.

~* Robin

Hey you got some info! Thanks!! I also Googled Green Arrow peas and confirmed that they will get be about 28". Another naive question not answered in the info above - how many pods to a plant? A couple like corn or a bunch like cukes?

What pea cultivar(s) did you plant? I planted three varieties of English peas. The bush types are Early Frosty and Wando and I do not trellis those as they tend to hold each other up. The other one is called "Green Arrow," which I trellis w/ 2- ft high chicken wire because GA doesn't get very tall.

The edible-pod peas (like Sugar Snap) are generally vines and need a proper trellis. I have mine on a 6ft one, but they might not go that high.

oops, crossed posts. Sorry. Pods per plant: not so many as cukes, not so few as corn.