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Soferdig Kalispell, MT(Zone 4b) Mar 24, 2006

Mine are going to be 16" and the motar thickness is to be about 12". I will place my logs closer than the one displayed and the log pieces are barkless and dried to lessen the expansion problem. The ends of my logs will extend 1 to 2 inches beyond the mortar. I like this look better. See following piece. This is a neat building when you do it right. Fits in to any wild look. The ones in Alaska had mostly rocks but they were uncomfortable to lean up against. Too hot. You also put sawdust in the mortar to allow for the expansion difference to lessen.

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Post #2136419
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Leftwood Saint Bonifacius, MN(Zone 4a) Mar 24, 2006

.ahhh . . . sawdust. Yes. Along the same lines as the hyperfufa mix we use for outdoor cement pots that can take the freeze/thaws. Mix is Portland cement/sphagnum peat/vermiculite. Am still somewhat amazed at the stability of your method long term. Especially for a structure as large as that house. But that photo makes me a believer.

And I like the looks of the walls in your second pic better too.

Rick

Post #2136904
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Soferdig Kalispell, MT(Zone 4b) Apr 03, 2006

Sorry I went to mexico and was gone. Mind you I havent built such a building yet but these structures are all older and were featured in old editions of some Organic magazine. I find the Idea sound and the construction in post and beam style strong and simple. I am interested in the style of building and its natural look. The Irish used this in a lot of their garden buildings. This is a builder in Colo who has his business exclusively in cordwood construction. You will need a post and beam support for each floor. The walls like most stand free in their own container.

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