Krauter Vesuvius flowering plum is leafing out, but so far, no flowers

I fertilized it earlier this Spring, and it's leafing out well. Is it still too early for flower buds to appear? We live at a higher elevation, and everything is later up here. The plums in town (lower area) are already blooming pink. We purchased this plum last year, it was a couple of years old already, and had finished blooming when we got it and had only purple leaves on it. It kept all of its leaves throughout last summer and Fall, lost them as normal in winter, and now new small leaves are forming. Will this tree eventually bloom, or will I only get leaves? The fertilizer's number ratio was what our garden center recommended: 5-10-10. The nursery they got it from recommends a 10-20-20 fertilizer, but our garden center doesn't carry that, and they say the 5-10-10 is the same thing, anyway. Perhaps I need to use a stronger fertilizer? Should I use the fertilizer more often because of the lower numbers? First time ever owner of a flowering plum. This species is the Krauter Vesuvius.

Hello while it is somewhat unusual for a ornamental plum tree to not bloom, it does happen. It could have been a period of drought going into dormancy or a unusually cold period, that let to the tree feeling as though blooming would take too much energy. I would make sure that it gets sufficient water during this growing season as the first year tends to be the most crucial when establishing new plantings. In addition, I would put a layer of compost- 1-2 inches on the planting area and mix in. Finally cover the area with arborist wood chips or some sort of coarse mulch. This will protect the soil from the sun, maintain moisture levels and microbial activity throughout the season, and contribute to good soil cultivation over time. In the event that it was stress that kept your tree from blooming, you may even see some sporadic flowering later in the season.

Thanks for the input. I had mulched around the tree with straw throughout our wet winter (plenty of snow), and while I'm now removing straw mulch from the rest of my garden, I'm keeping most of it around the tree for the exact purposes you've stated -- to preserve moisture and microbial activity. I fertilized under the straw and mixed it into the soil. Is the fertilizer my garden center recommended too weak? It's Lily Miller brand granules, 5-10-10. Somehow, it seems those numbers should be higher, in equal ratio. I think I see what may be newly forming flower buds at the tips of a very few branches, but along the branches are mainly what looks like leaves, and the tips of most of the branches are devoid of buds. I might get some flowers, not sure yet. This tree was a couple of years old when we got it, so it had been through a season or two before we planted it. It's raining right now, and we had a snowy winter, and all that snow soaked into the soil, which is now quite moist. I plan on keeping it watered throughout the seasons. As I've mentioned, we live at a higher elevation, and everything in the garden develops later than in the lower lying areas. So, we'll see ... Maybe I just need to be patient. Are there anymore suggestions? Yours are very helpful. Thanks again.

Sounds as though you have done all the right things. I would just give it some time. Plants are like people, sometimes they do unusual things. I do not believe that you need to increase the fertilizer strength, as the nursery's recommendations may be based on a containerized setting. In the end, if you have prepared the soil properly before planting and you continue to mulch and periodically apply compost, you should be able to avoid addition granular feeding.

I'll just be patient and see what happens. If it's going to bloom, it will do so in its own time. I'm actually quite fortunate, as we have tried in the past to plant flowering plums, crab apples and dogwoods, with no success. This time, I chose a different location and an older tree. The fact that it kept its leaves all of last year up until snow time was a sign that it was still healthy. Thanks for the advice. This is supposed to be a fairly low maintenance species, and it sounds like it won't require a lot of pampering.

Trees and shrubs usually take a while to become established after transplanting. The first year or two they will prioritize growing a robust root system to ensure survival. Foliage is also a priority for providing energy. Normal flowering will resume once it's happy.

Don't over-fertilize as that can burn the roots and kill the plant. The N/P/K ratios on the two ferts you mentioned are the same so just apply at the recommended rate. Actually the lower concentration fert you are using is less likely to cause problems. As for mulch, make sure it's not too deep and make sure it does not directly contact the base of the trunk to avoid rot.

Thanks folks. Looks like I have nothing to worry about. I did mulch away from the base of the trunk, and never did make it really deep, as I know this can smother a plant. There's just enough straw to help retain moisture, but not so much as to hinder oxygenation. Whether it flowers or just puts on leaves, it will still be a nice looking tree. The pink flowers are so lovely, it's such a thrill to see them in town every Spring. Eventually, I might see them out here, too. I just want to give it the best care possible. I also knew to not apply fertilizer right up next to the trunk, but several inches away, all the way around. I'm sure the rainwater has been washing it down into the soil where the roots can access the nutrients. Thanks again for your assurances and advice. Very helpful.