Newbie help: no blooms!

Waterloo, ON(Zone 5a)

I have 2 orchids with healthy green foliage but nothing else. The small one (1st pic) lost its blooms almost 12 mos. ago. Do I need to do anything to it now that the roots are starting to creep out? The taller orchid (2nd pic) recently lost its blooms and I do not know where I should trim it or what else I should be doing. Any help is appreciated. Thanks! Buttercup

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Poughkeepsie, NY(Zone 6a)

You can trim that flower stem about an inch above the leaves. How often do you feed them?

Waterloo, ON(Zone 5a)

Yikes! I haven't been! I was worried about overwatering so I've been using the ice cube method but that meant I was forgetting about feeding them. Can I use regular Schulz's 10-15-10?
Thanks for your help!

Cleveland,GA/Atlanta, GA(Zone 7b)

Phalaenopsis generally put out new roots and one pair of leaves each year at this time. So they should currently be in a growth cycle. Then they spike during winter and bloom late winter through spring. Some continue into summer. They need a cooling off period starting now to initiate spikes. They also need a ten to fifteen degree swing in daily temps. So, for most of the year 55-60 at night or higher and 70-75 during the day or higher. But come fall they need at least a month of 50-55 at night and 65-70 days. Phals are not heavy feeders. Once or twice a month is fine. Use an orchid food since orchids require higher nitrogen than plants potted in soil. Do not use ice! There should be a law against that instruction. Make sure the bark is not broken down. If so, repot in fresh bark and you can't over water. Just make sure the plant is not sitting in a wet drain tray. Do not water the center of the plant. Phals grow sideways, hanging from trees and will rot if water sits in the center. If the center gets wet, tip the water out. One way to get the temps right is to put the plant out in a spot with filtered sun as long as nights are above fifty. Make sure rain can't get in the crown. Hope this helps and I didn't overwhelm you with information.

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Anne Arundel,, MD(Zone 7b)

I didn't know that about water in the crown. I've had some easy great success and some failure with Phals. Maybe this is one reason why.
I have my two Phals, a dendrobium, and an oncidium out hanging in my dogwood tree and thought I'd leave them until it gets too cold. I'll go check the Phals and tilt them if needed.

Cleveland,GA/Atlanta, GA(Zone 7b)

They should be coming in at night if the temps are dropping below fifty but can still enjoy the nice days. Bright outdoor light will make for better blooms even if you can't get them out every day. Oncidium and Dendrobiums can take full fall sun if they are used to bright summer light. Phals like very bright, indirect light or several hours of early morning sun. If you bring plants in be sure to put them someplace cool at night so they have the temperature swing they need. Fertilize with an orchid fertilizer weekly to encourage bloom set and allow all three of these orchid species to almost dry between watering during this cooler period. Always water the plant first and then fertilize to prevent burning roots.

Anne Arundel,, MD(Zone 7b)

Timely advice!! Just got a cold front and next week nights will be around 50. They will soon come in to my (not really heated) laundry room with east window and south nine-pane window door.

Anne Arundel,, MD(Zone 7b)

Oops nights to low 40s so I brought the orchids in. Bud spike on oncidium! Then there's the struggling Dendrobium with my unprofessional log mounting. Grows in summer then is sad in winter, past three years.

Thumbnail by sallyg Thumbnail by sallyg
Monroe, WI(Zone 4b)

Buttercup, I would not cut that spent bloom spike off just above the leaves; I'd cut back just a bit from where it is withered up and obviously dead. It will put out blooms from the existing stalk. They look rather strange with new bloom spikes coming out of the old, but, hey.............blooms is blooms...............LOL I have several that are doing that now.

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