How do i get rid of blackberry plant

it is growing and coming out of everywhere and getting out of control... it killed my 7 yr old lemon balm, killing my bear breach, and is moving towards my thai lemon and kiss me gently... And the thorns are so sharp and can penetrate 2 gardening gloves (leather and nitril)

Have you tried pruning it from the outside in and then digging out the clumps with a shovel?

The most permanent way to rid yourself of wild blackberries is to cut them back to just a couple of inches above the ground and paint on full strength brush killer. Be careful not get any brush killer on the ground as it will kill any other root it runs into. This is especially successful in the fall just before the blackberry goes dormant.

Daisy, can you point us to a citation of a brush killer killing other plants by contact with the root only? I was under the impression it is absorbed through the actively growing foliage or a cut stem to kill the plant including the roots. I used quite a bit of it last year at my daughter's home for poison ivy, Virginia creeper, honeysuckle, and other tough weeds but any desirable plant I sprayed around and up to the base but don't remember it killing the desirable plants.

Hiya
@Sequoiadendron, it is growing in clay soil with lots of rocks, tough to dig out, its runners has spread out a bit.
@Daisy which brush killer do you recommend? is there a household / organic method? I herd about vinegar but not sure if it is a myth.
@hcmcdole I have this other vine system growing behind a fence owned by the city that is growing runners all over my yard, I wanted to hop over the chainlink and cut them by the roots but if the leaves are all I need...

Also could I just get syringes and just inject the main body of the plant with the weed/brush killer? A Dr Kevorkian for plants.

Here's two:

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ag259

"Triclopyr Amine
Triclopyr amine is a growth regulator-type herbicide, which means that it causes abnormal and/or suppressed plant growth that may result in plant death. Triclopyr amine-containing herbicide products used by commercial applicators usually contain 31.8% (acid) triclopyr; they are sold in 2.5 gal or larger containers and are available only from agricultural supply stores. Triclopyr is available for homeowner use in more dilute (0.8%–8.8%) products and smaller containers (8 oz–1.3 gal) from garden supply stores. While commercial product labels recommend up to full strength for some applications, diluted or undiluted product that contains 8.8% is usually effective for most landscape applications. Care should be taken not to allow triclopyr amine to come into contact with foliage or roots of plants that are not intended to be harmed."

http://www.invasive.org/gist/products/handbook/20.triclopyr.pdf

"Vegetation
Both the ester and salt formulations are hydrolyzed to the acid after entering plant tissue. The
acid tends to remain in plants until they die or dop leaves and begin to decay (Newton et al.
1990). Newton et al. (1990) reported that triclopyr in evergreen foliage and twigs showed
remarkable persistence. Although concentrations of triclopyr in the soil will decrease quickly
and remain low through the winter, levels can rise again in the spring if a new supply of
contaminated foliage falls from defoliating crowns (Newton et al. 1990). The residues of some
herbicides in fruit have been shown to persist up to one month (Holmes et al. 1994). There is
therefore a potential for long-term exposure of triclopyr to animal species that eat wild fruit. In
non-target plants, triclopyr soil residues can cause damage via root uptake (Newton et al. 1990)."

Thanks Daisy. I know I read that it should not be used around food crops (not so much for killing the plant but for the uptake into the fruit).

You're welcome. We lost a grove of beautiful trees because the gardener decided to kill the cattails in a nearby catch basin with brush killer. I don't think it killed the cattails.

Snowdoggie-
I have clay and rocks too, so digging is a problem. I did exactly what Daisy said, and it works fine. I did it mid and late summer in different places, had almost no regrowth. I just used full strength generic "Brush Killer" from Ace Hardware, it was cheaper than the brand name stuff. Make sure you get the full strength kind that is supposed to be diluted if you are going to spray it. Paint it on full strength. I used a cheapo tiny paintbrush from the dollar store, then threw that away when I was done painting the stumps. If rain is expected, turn a bucket upside down over the painted stump, so it will not get washed off.

Oh, and buy some "Rose Gloves" which are extra thick leather and go halfway up your arm!

The injection method is intriguing, but you would still have to get to the thick branches, and still have to dispose of them with all the thorns, so I wouldn't think it would be any better than the paint method.

I have found that it is best to deal with the branches immediately after chopping them off, as if they get dry they get stiff and woody so the puncture problem is even worse.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

@Daisy, First I would like to thank you for the info
One of the product you mentioned - Chemical formula: [(3,5,6-trichloro-2-pyridinyl) oxy] acetic
acid, basically a variant of vinegar?

I'm not a chemist. But looking at your formula, I know there's no chlorine in vinegar. You might find this interesting:

http://weedcontrolfreaks.com/2014/06/salt-vinegar-and-glyphosate/

The problem with the injection method is that you have to hit the cambium layer of the plant. Good luck with that.

Daisy

Thanks Daisy,
I did not know that the home made mixer was actually more than round up!
Though I have all the ingredients ready for that; the round up concentrate is cheaper but I will have too much of the product unless huge weeds start to crop up.

My recommendation is still full strength brush killer in the fall.

Pull the roots out if you can. Use pliers if you can't get a little digging tool in due to growing against other treasured plants. Blackberries are easier to get out than saw briars (Smilax) that have a big fleshy tuber several inches in the ground.. Persistence often pays off just by clipping the growing tip every time you see it pop up depriving it of sunlight needed for photosynthesis.