Training Young Trees

(Robin) Blissfield, MI(Zone 6a)

Looks good Vossner! I expect spring to be the best time to get more tension on that rope...keep it up.

It looks as though the bottom left branch in your photo is large enough to compete with the leader, if this is the case, trim it back. After all said is done, I'm sure she'll be a beaut again.

East Texas, United States(Zone 8a)

Do u mean trim back to the trunk? If yes, will it make leader grow faster? I was so prune happy last winter, this year I was feeling a little shy....

(Robin) Blissfield, MI(Zone 6a)

No, do not prune back to the trunk, just prune back 1/3...so the leader is visibly longer. You can also prune the other side to the same length, only if the right side branch is longer than the left side you just pruned.

It won't make the leader grow faster but it will strengthen the leader, reduce the lean weight and keep a more pleasing shape for your tree. Leaders shouldn't have any competition, you want to reduce the chance for weak crotches by cutting back branches that can compete size wise for the leader position. Cutting back one third is always a good rule of thumb.

East Texas, United States(Zone 8a)

I am concerned that is I cut by a third, then I will have two weaker branches growing from the cut point. Wont that defeat purpose of of trying to reduce lean weight? I actually have two branches, one of each side, that should be cut by 1/3 but my question remains about creating more branches at the cut.

That's how I trim my bushes to fill them up. I have an Oleander that I've been training as a standard for about 5 years and I it is looking good. I've never been able to get a good pic of it but perhaps this summer will be my lucky shot. But I digress.

(Robin) Blissfield, MI(Zone 6a)

Pruning a large branch slows it's growth rate. It will create more smaller branching but will not compare to the weight of the uncut large branch. If further down the road you find your tree getting too congested, then would be the time to cut selective branches back to the trunk.

You are smart to think conservative after being prune happy last year. It's best not to do a major pruning all in one year. It's definitely a process that's balanced with the health and welfare of the tree at the forefront.

East Texas, United States(Zone 8a)

Thank you so much . I will trim the two side laterals a bit

(Robin) Blissfield, MI(Zone 6a)

You're welcome, I think you'll be pleased with the result, especially since you fought to have it look good (much better than replacing the tree). Looking forward to seeing your beautiful Oleander!

Vienna, VA(Zone 7a)

It's a dreary, rainy day here which limits outside gardening, so I thought I'd load some photos showing how I've been training my Red Maple. When I posted the first set of photos on May 26, 2014 (see above), it had multiple leaders and a crowded cluster of branches near the top.

I'm not 100% happy with my pruning job, but at least a clear leader has been established!

Thumbnail by Muddy1 Thumbnail by Muddy1 Thumbnail by Muddy1
Vienna, VA(Zone 7a)

Oops...photos didn't attach...

Thumbnail by Muddy1 Thumbnail by Muddy1 Thumbnail by Muddy1
Vienna, VA(Zone 7a)

This photo, taken in April 2015, shows what the top looked like almost a year after I selected a leader and pruned or removed some of the other branches near the top.

This message was edited Nov 29, 2015 5:02 PM

Thumbnail by Muddy1
(Robin) Blissfield, MI(Zone 6a)

Hey, thanks for the update, it's so cool to see the progression. It's looking good Muddy. If you can get another shot of the whole tree, that would be even better. It's also fun to see it dormant and in full leaf, it's a nice little tree.

Vienna, VA(Zone 7a)

Thanks, Mipii. The 3 photos just above the single one show the tree as it looks today.

(Robin) Blissfield, MI(Zone 6a)

Oh...sorry, I didn't see those. Okay, yes it looks really good! You should be proud. Thanks for posting all of those pics.

Vienna, VA(Zone 7a)

No worries. Thanks! I'm glad I allowed a solid leader to emerge, at least ; - )

Lake Stevens, WA(Zone 8a)

It worked!

Camano Island, WA(Zone 8a)

Muddy1, that's very impressive! Thank you for sharing the results.
vossner, is yours continuing to progress?

East Texas, United States(Zone 8a)

I will post pics tomorrow. when I take pics from one side, it looks like it is straightening but if taken from another angle, it looks as slanted as ever. We have been working diligently but the jury is still out. We started too late. My neighbors prob. think we are crazy. we have 3-4 small trees in training so they must think we're REAL control freaks, ha! they might not be wrong either...

East Texas, United States(Zone 8a)

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This message was edited Nov 30, 2015 6:31 PM

Vienna, VA(Zone 7a)

Thanks, Momlady. I'll probably limb it up another 12-18", then it's time to pick the permanent scaffold branches. I'm not going to be able to prune it myself for much longer because it's getting too tall.

(Robin) Blissfield, MI(Zone 6a)

Lol Vossner, I bet all our neighbors think we're nuts. When they don't know the method to the madness, it's easier to assume.

Muddy, once you've got the scaffold branches selected and the other ones cut back to the trunk, I think you're done...save perhaps a freak ice storm or something snaps your leader. That's one of the benefits of training young.

East Texas, United States(Zone 8a)

Here is a pic taken when I'm in front of the tree

Thumbnail by vossner
East Texas, United States(Zone 8a)

Here are pics taken from the left and from the right. Pretty sharp slant. But since it is going to grow several feet tall, like 50, maybe the trunk will be straight and the leader way up high will be bent, maybe canopy will hide it.

Mipii I did cut the side branches in the spring, as you suggested and tree leader really shot up. In fact I also did it w/ my other two trainees and they also grew a lot.

Thumbnail by vossner Thumbnail by vossner
Lake Stevens, WA(Zone 8a)

Hi vossner, that is a pretty sharp slant. It does seem to be aiming for the sky again, but it's all lignified (it's wood) now so the angled part will always be there. As you say, when it's a bit bigger the slant will be hidden in the foliage. However, depending on where it is, it might be at risk of being blown over in one of those big Texas sized storms you get-if any structures are at risk you might not want to keep it :-(

(Robin) Blissfield, MI(Zone 6a)

Wow Vossner, it doesn't look like it's straightened out enough, unless you're standing in front of the tree of course. How long was the time frame between pruning and bracing it?

East Texas, United States(Zone 8a)

It's been a while so I don't remember. Prob. 6-12 mps before it was staked.

This message was edited Dec 2, 2015 6:55 PM

Vienna, VA(Zone 7a)

Vossner, perhaps the top, supple part of your tree can be trained to grow upright enough to balance the tree's weight.

These photos are of a Maple that had grown in this shape by the time we bought our house. It grew like this because it was surrounded by other trees and, obviously no one thought about training it to have a strong leader.

The bend in its trunk is similar to the one in Vossner's tree, but it's doing okay. If/when it gets a lot taller and especially if it starts looking diseased, though, I might be quicker to take it down because its very close to our house.

Thumbnail by Muddy1 Thumbnail by Muddy1 Thumbnail by Muddy1
East Texas, United States(Zone 8a)

Muddy, Thank you for your input and pics and yes, I would imagine mine would look like that. DH will raise the stake and tie at a higher point to see if it helps. But at this point we may end up with and ugly curve. Dunno, jury is still out on this one. We have corrected many trees before so not giving up

Vienna, VA(Zone 7a)

Good luck!

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