Any build their own gh out of polycarb panels and wood?

Greeley, CO(Zone 5b)

I have a few detail questions about this. I got the plans to build an 8x10 gh from the book "How to build your own gh" by Roger Marshall. I did find a few things off and made the modifications on paper before starting to build. I am going to get the lumber this weekend.

The questions I have are on the finishing details.

What did you use for the cap on the roof? (the book recommends 1x4 trim). Anything better out there that would still look nice?

They also recommend 1/4"x2" trim for the seams (or cap pieces). The only thing that HD and Lowe's stocks is regular trim for the inside of the house. I know I can get redwood, but not in those dimensions.

Last thing (I think), What did you use for the base trim? I need something that will be at least 5" wide. Please don't ask why, it is hard to explain, but it just needs to be that wide.

The gh will be covered in 6mm polycarbonate panels and the frame made from 2x4's (book calls for 2x2's, but we have a lot of wind and I want to get it right the first time.)

Unfortunately I cannot put in a concrete floor so the base will be made out of either 4x4's or 6x6's buried and stacked so they will go down 12" (frost line) and then insulated underground. The inside will be filled w/ pea gravel and brick for a walk way.

Sorry, I added a lot of detail, but now you know I am serious. I also see many posts where people don't give enough info. The more the better right?

Pictures would help since I learn best by sight not necessarily by written instructions.

Thanks

Sparta , TN(Zone 7a)

solex is good


Sarge

Lambertville, NJ(Zone 6a)

Onyx - I am going to look up that book. I am trying to decide weather to buy a kit or build something from scratch. Let us know about your progress.

Sparta , TN(Zone 7a)

we are drawing one up bit heaver in size but much like you are looking at building .

Sarge

Greeley, CO(Zone 5b)

I already have the panels ordered and am going to p/u wood today. Since the lumber is treated it will need to sit in our garage under weights until it is dry. My DH and his friend want to wait until fall to build since it will be cooler.

Still not sure what I am going to use for the base trim and roof trim. Any thoughts.

Also found some insulated concrete forms that I am looking into using. They would be placed under the soil line and capped w/ a 4x4. That way I can pull out the 4x4 when we move and cover it w/ soil. I don't plan on moving anytime soon, but my DH wants me to keep things as close to as is for when we do move (in 8-10yrs). Ha ha...

Thanks for the responses. Any input would be helpful.

Lambertville, NJ(Zone 6a)

I ordered that book on e-bay last night. Can't wait to get it.

Greeley, CO(Zone 5b)

You should have checked the library, that is where I got mine and I figure I can recheck it out if I need it again. That is were I get most of my books. I do have a few gardening books that I felt I had to own, but my goodness do they get pricey!

Good luck on yours suzieq!

Once you get it please let me know what you think for the cap pieces and trim. I did get my lumber yesterday and going w/ the 1x2 cedar. I am going to router the edges to make them a little less sharp. Still not sure about the base. I think I will just use 1x6 cedar and do the same router edge.

Lambertville, NJ(Zone 6a)

Onyx, I have a book problem. I admit it, I'm a hoarder. I love books. I can usually find good stuff on e-bay and yard sales really cheap. This one sounded really good.

I hope you can post some pictures as you work on yours.

Greeley, CO(Zone 5b)

Are you going to try to build a gh or do you just want the book?

I do love books too, but in order to build this gh I will need to save every cent I possibly can! More than likely I will purchase the book when I am done, but for now I can borrow it to my hearts content.

Will definitely post pics when we get started and throughout the process, but it won't be until fall. So I figure that gives me plenty of time to get all the wood primed and painted and all the trim completely ready for install (except for the detail cutting).

Lambertville, NJ(Zone 6a)

I am planning to build a greenhouse this fall. I have one idea, but need to look at some others and have my "builders' look them over as well. I have a son and cousin who do carpenter work. They will be a big help in putting it together.

Coos Bay, OR(Zone 9a)

Ours was built with those panels and wood many years ago and still going strong. It is an A-frame design that my husband built. The back (north side) stores garden tools. It has a long table down the center and the south side has the panels sloping down and removable racks
built to my waist height. I use it summer and winter. Grow all my own veggie starts and grow a few things in winter. I always grow a couple of tomatoes in it, in pots, because they are the first to bear and the last to bear fruit. We usually have fresh tomatoes until Thanksgiving or if lucky beyond that a bit.

Dahlonega, GA

Onyx , 10 years will go by in a hurry . And faster the older you get .
(spelling )

This message was edited Jun 27, 2010 5:39 PM

Greeley, CO(Zone 5b)

Beebonnet,

Can you post a couple pics of your gh? Some w/ close ups of your cap pieces (the pieces that cover the polycarb seams) and your roof vents. I have everything figured out 100%, those are the only things I am still a little uncertain of. I do have instructions from the book, but I think there must be other, possibly better, ways to do it.
I don't know anyone who has a gh and have never seen one in person, other than the hoop houses at the garden centers. It would help so much if I could see things closer up, the pics online and in catalogs are so far away or at bad angels and usually don't show any of that type of detail.

Dahlonega, GA

Onyx , the cap piece can be made , with great success ,out of either the corrugated plastic , or metal roofing . Run long ways and screw down . Predrill holes .You can nail them ,but I prefer screws for all wood construction . Makes mistakes easier to correct without tearing up the wood to remove nails , or change design later .Flashing can also be used and can get it in various widths to cover as far down as you want it to go . The plastic or metal can be cut to the width you want , Just use glasses and be careful of the metal , use gloves. I used metal , and cut it with shears . Turned out nice . It wasn't on a greenhouse , It was steel roofing for a porch. Much heavier . Or you can go to a metal roofing mfg and have a roof cap cut to length. I use Mueller . They are everywhere .
I was given a three sided g h already taken apart and haven't gotten around to putting it up . Don't expect any problems , going to use pressure treated wood set on concrete blocks around the bottom. If I ever get around to it . It's 18 foot long , so should get a smaller one out of it . four sides

Greeley, CO(Zone 5b)

Thanks, I was thinking about using flashing for the roof and then covering it w/ some strips of wood to give it a more finished look. I guess what I was thinking will work just fine. Maybe I should stop second guessing myself. :-) I can't help it though since I want to do this right the first time.

Dahlonega, GA

Are you going to try to heat it in the winter ? Greely gets cold and if you heat it and keep plants there , wouldn't you want the sun to help in the daytime ? Thus, a clear roof . Also wood on the outside wouldn't last as long , but there's always pressure treated . How much snow do you get ? Would want enough pitch unless it's heated.

Greeley, CO(Zone 5b)

Yes, it will be heated. The wood on the roof is only to cover the flashing where the polycarb connects at the peak. It would still be clear on the rest of it. We do get a lot of snow but, the pitch is good so I am not concerned about that part. The wood on the outside will be cedar, primed w/ an oil base primer and them painted w/ a marine grade paint to help w/ rot. Cedar is one of the woods recommended for this application in the book and several web sites I have looked at. The inside is going to be all MCQ pressure treated. MCQ is an organic, non-poisonous chemical so it will be safe to use around plants.

Do you think that if I covered 3" on each side of the roof peak w/ wood it would block out too much sun? I think that is the same amount that would be covered by the flashing.

Dahlonega, GA

In my honest opinion , I would use six ins on each side . If your poly has ridges , peak to bottom (which is the way I would run it ),They have a foam strip that will fit over it and under the flashing to prevent wind blown rain ,and heat from escaping .
Cedar is very expensive here.
Sounds like you have done your homework and it will be really nice when you finish.

Greeley, CO(Zone 5b)

Six inches wouldn't block too much sun. I know it isn't much, but every little bit counts in the winter right?

Cedar isn't too bad here. I got enough for all the trim pieces, including some to cover the 2x4's (just to give it a more finished look). It was under $100, 1/2 the price of redwood. It really doesn't matter how nice the wood color is since it will all be painted anyway. I don't want to seal it 2x a year like I would have to do if I just varnished the raw wood. I think I will only have to do a full repaint job every 2 years this way, maybe less.

Do you use heat curtains to keep the heat in at night? If so can they be homemade. I know the GH Gardeners Companion says no, but there is a product in the fabric stores that is a really good insulator. It is used for roman shades (a type of curtain). I just want to know if it would be worth it since it is quite expensive. I think I will also have to look into the real ones too.

Dahlonega, GA

I'm not in as cold an area as you , so don't know about the heat curtains . I did have a temporary green house on my deck a coupla years and only framed it up with 2x2's Used plain old plastic sheeting over it , folded over for double thickness. Had a sheet of foam insulation laid on the floor (it was only a 4x8' house) and a sheet of plywood over that to walk on . It kept the cold from coming up through the cracks in my deck . I had a small electric stove in there and a thermometer on the wall . It was built against the house and I kept the kitchen window open to it . It got down to 5 degrees that first winter and clouded all the time , so it seems . I rooted cuttings and had a rose bloom that I took the bloom off of then stuck in water . It rooted and bloomed in late Feb. I was amazed at how warm it stayed in there . I sat a small fan on the window sill and blew air from the house , but didn't need it .
Maybe someone from your area can give you more advice on the heat blanket , but with heat in there , I doubt if you need it . I wanted you to know about my primitive G H so you would see that they are warmer than you think .Mine stayed above 67 all the time.
One of these days , I'll get my poly one built but I go south in the winter so can't really use it.

Greeley, CO(Zone 5b)

The reason I want to use a heat curtain is to keep the warm air inside at night to help keep the heater from coming on as much. I know it is going to up our electric bill, but I want to keep it down as much as possible.

Thanks for the input. Every little bit counts.

Keep it coming.

Rapid City, SD(Zone 4b)

Here is a pic of mine when we were still in the process of building it. I have 8mm polycarb on mine, but we get a bit colder here. And I think from the sounds of it you are makeing yours with more pc then I did with mine. I have other pics, don't know if this will help at all... But ..

Paula

Thumbnail by Polyacre
Lambertville, NJ(Zone 6a)

Hi Onyxwar, TGIF! I got the book yesterday. I didn't have much time to look at it yet, but looks very good. Seems to have lots of detail. I will be looking it over more this weekend.

Greeley, CO(Zone 5b)

Thanks Polyacre...

Do you have any roof vents? If so do you have any photos of those? What did you use as "cap" pieces for the polycarb (or did you use h's)?

Trying for a game of 20 Questions, but only have 3 this time. ;-)

Suzieq,

It is a great book. Have fun with it. I think I have most of it memorized.

Rapid City, SD(Zone 4b)

We used the H channels all around the pc.. I dont have any roof vents, need some though.. I have the vents purchased and just need hubby to install them. And we purchased all our pc and h channels from www.farmtek.com it was sure easy to install.

Sparta , TN(Zone 7a)

good web site

Sarge

Dahlonega, GA

Poly , I sent a comment about how good yours looks . I guess it ended up in cyberspace . Anyway it looks great , nice plan for it ,the way the roof slopes . Can't wait to see it finished

Greeley, CO(Zone 5b)

Polyacre,

The H's look like they would be easier, but more expensive. The price is why I am going with the cedar. I just found out that what I purchased was cut wrong and now I have to go back next weekend to exchange it. This time I will not let them cut it, I will just do it on my own to make sure it is either done right or my fault. I would rather be upset w/ my mistake then theirs.

I never thought about purchasing a vent instead of making one. I think I will look into that before we start building. Thanks for the tip.

Rapid City, SD(Zone 4b)

This is my 4th summer with the GH. And loving it...... Sure wish it was bigger tho !!! LOL And the vents that I have are thermostaticly controlled..

Thumbnail by Polyacre
Dahlonega, GA

It's a beauty

Greeley, CO(Zone 5b)

Very nice. I can't wait to have mine up, looking at yours makes me jelous.

Coos Bay, OR(Zone 9a)

I apologize for how long it has taken me to get these pictures taken and into this forum. Here are a few I hope will be helpful, if it isn't too late.

Thumbnail by beebonnet
Coos Bay, OR(Zone 9a)

Roof overlaps the panels and the panels overlap each other a bit.

Thumbnail by beebonnet
Coos Bay, OR(Zone 9a)

Inside

Thumbnail by beebonnet
Coos Bay, OR(Zone 9a)

beams inside

Thumbnail by beebonnet
Coos Bay, OR(Zone 9a)

front entrance has a dutch door not in picture. Back door is a slider.

Thumbnail by beebonnet
Coos Bay, OR(Zone 9a)

Nice outdoor sink for washing veggies (and catch of the day)

Thumbnail by beebonnet
Dahlonega, GA

I want a double sink like yours . Where did it come from ?

Coos Bay, OR(Zone 9a)

When we remodeled this house, we took out that beautiful old double sink because we also moved the laundry location. They have been so useful outside and we love it.. This house was built in the early 50's, so look for remodeled 50's houses.

Dahlonega, GA

That's what I've done . Built on a 14x16 room for laundry , sewing , dog bathing etc . I need a double sink , deep , and don't like the utility sinks I've seen . One like yours would be perfect . Does it by chance have a brand on it ?

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