Are the potworms eating my Columbine? If not, what is?

I've tried and tried to grow Columbine and failed. Finally I started one in a new location that is doing great. There are a few still languishing in the old bed, so I grabbed my shovel to dig one up and look at the roots to see what was going on. Well, there were no roots and masses of small worms all over the area where the roots stopped. I pulled up a new plant I put in the bed a week ago that was starting to fail already, it too had the worms all over around the roots. I tugged on a few other struggling plants, they popped right out, no roots. I dug up a healthy one about 8 feet down in the bed, healthy roots and no worms. I also have several Hosta, Johnson's Geranium and violas in this bed that are showing no effects what so ever.

So, I strongly believe the worms are Whiteworms/Potworms based on my web research. I've also read that they often feed on harmful micro organisms and decaying matter. So what's going on here I guess is my question, and how do I deal with this?

Here are a few pictures, this first one is a picture (not a very good one due to camera limitations) of what I believe are potworms.

Here are two of the victimized columbine.

Here is a larger plant that is being attacked to show the leaves of the plant in case that helps.

Some more research and I was thinking maybe borers, so I cut the stems open and nothing, just more white worms in the crown, which looks like it rotted. So I'm guessing crown rot (I'm hoping that's it) I can easily fix that. I have the bed heavily mulched, so I pulled all the mulch back from the living and half living plants to see if that fixes things.

You might try a Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) innoculation of the soil. I've used it successfully on other root-eating bugs. You can find Bt at almost any garden center or store.

Thank you so much dparsons, I'll do that this week. Do you just use it when you're having problems? or also as a preventative?

I had a problem with a bug that had an underground larval stage and a winged stage. It worked well. I've also used it on Tomatos.

Just now saw this for the first time. I use BT as needed -- never had a problem with columbines, but it works great for cabbage loopers. It only lasts for 14 days or until the next rain, but it is very effective and harmless to everything except caterpillars. I did have a friend who was allergic to it - when she used it on her broccoli she swelled up like a balloon if she ate the broccoli. But pouring it on didn't hurt her.

Thanks Paj. I noticed today they've moved on to my Bleeding heart. I seriously think there is a double problem. All the rain/snow we got I think rotted some of the plants, but they've obviously also been getting chewed on, maybe that's why they then rotted. Anyway, that's today's chore.

I'm not to surprised at the reaction. Bt gives off a toxin, which is what kills the bugs. It not generally lethal to humans, but I'm sure some people don't tolerate it as well.

Obviously you are correct, dParsons. I am also wondering if kTalia shouldn't work on keeping the crows of her plants dry -- maybe move mulch away from crowns? I am not sure why these worms are so happy there, but it may be to much moisture.
I had never heard of such worms before, but sounds like the need to be out of there.

I pulled all the mulch away yesterday. The white worms I'm lead to believe are actually very beneficial. They eat nematodes, bacteria and other bad microscopic bugs. They're also attracted to decomposing matter and are good for composting. I'm not totally sure, because the amount of information available on the web is very scarce. But I'm guessing they're just attracted to the rotting crowns of the plants. When I pulled up the bleeding heart today there was a whole host of other bugs that I think might be more troublesome (for instance little slugs and grubby things). Anyway, who knows. Moisture is definitely part of the problem and I'll treat for the bugs on the few remaining plants. Fortunately the bleeding heart was very big, so there is a ring of new growth around the outside of the whole mess.

Keeping the crowns dry is a definite. If all you have is the white worms mentioned on the web, then that shouldn't be the problem.

Another thought: have the leave consistently shown the yellow patches as in the photo above? You might have a mineral deficiency which would make the plants more susceptible to disease.

No, I haven't noticed any of my plants with odd colors until this year. I put a general slow release on them back in Mid-March. It's the first time I've used anything other than fish emulsion or coffee grounds, so I don't know if maybe I over did it. But I think if anything I put less on than recommended. It's a pretty new bed, I established it last spring and there are Soooo many things it could be. :D For instance, all the dirt there came from old outdoor pots from family and friends. So who knows, I could have a Lock Ness in there! That and I have a history of over-water things, I've tried to behave. Add in the melt off that made a swamp out of my yard for days. I think the plants were just doomed and I'm thankful I didn't managed to kill the rest of my flowers before I realized what I was doing! Isn't it just like us to blame the problem on someone other than ourselves? I mean, I didn't really mean to, but as it turns out, that's probably really what started all this! Hehe... oh well. Live and learn.

So, I pulled off all the mulch in the beds to air them out.
Going to apply some buggy defense to the one bed to clear out that problem.
I did some research and I think I'm going to start using seaweed sprays on my plants.

Hopefully that will cover it all and get me back on track. So much to learn!

Good luck. I don't have an answers for you but good luck and I'll keep my fingers crossed

Have you tried posting the white worms on the insect forum? Those people are usually fast and good. Easier than research.
I suspect your problem is moisture. Plants catch things when they begin to rot -- wilts and such. Frankly, I would recommend drying everything out good before spraying with fish emulsion which is normally a good thing. But it is wet. Some sun might cure the rot on your plants. Once they start growing again then try fish emulsion or whatever.

Show us some pictures of your soil. Dig down and show us the sub layer. Is it clay, how is the drainage? Have you had a lot of moisture this year?

You guys are so great to help me with this. I tried not to say too much originally because I tend to ramble and didn't want to turn everyone off. For those that want the dirty long details, here's the entire history of this bed.

Here's a link to my blog that shows what the area looked like 2 years ago during my construction of the bed. The dirt was a type of clay, but it was very gritty. Probably some sort of foundational mix they put in after the foundation of the house was built. We removed enough to establish the grade needed for the patio we put in.

http://davesgarden.com/tools/blog/viewimage.php?did=36126

Here's a picture of what the area looks like tonight.

After the construction I mixed about 4 inches of Eco Compost with the native soil and then filled the rest with a mix of Eco Compost and potting soil from old patio pots of mine and family and friends. On top of that I put 4 inches of small pine bark mulch. So I dug down and here's what it looks like, it was about 10 inches down to the native mix of clay. I couldn't go much further because I started hitting root structure from the Linden which is about 14 feet to the right of the whole.

Here's the dirt that came out of the hole.

While I was digging this little guy came up from about 8 inches down.

By the way, yes, there has been a lot of moisture here. The bed is raised, so it typically dries quickly, but because everything has been so saturated, everything is taking a long time to dry out. And I didn't help by cleaning the patio a few days before all the rain started. I try to wash as much as possible into the grass but a lot still gets into the side beds.

Thanks for your interest in helping Soferdig, Paj and dparsons.

The drainage is good because the soil looks OK that clay at the bottom is not affecting the linden. What did you use to clean the patio? That chemical could add to alkalinity. I would check the ph of the soil deep and see it it isn't too alkaline. The deck looks new and some mortars have chemicals that can leach for quite some time.

I just sprayed the patio clean with water and a deck brush. Yes, they did use a lot of pigments to do the stamped concrete and they got them everywhere. I tried my best to scrape up and toss the worst of it and any residue would be down at the deep level since I filled the beds after the concrete work. None of the grass died and the bed below this one under the Linden would have much greater impact since it's at ground level and has a much thinner layer of enhancement (about 6 inches I think) due to the roots of the tree being difficult to work around. Also, Lindens are very sensitive to chemicals and this is a young Linden (maybe 8 years?) and it never showed any signs of decline.

By the way Soferdig, I love your place. I was looking for something in some old posts and saw your tour. I have "mountain home envy" more than ever now. Of course, having a fenced backyard makes it easier to control furry visitors. You know, I think I've been in your neck of the woods before. When I was about 8, it just looks very familiar to me.

Thank you for the compliment. It is beautiful here next to the Rockies. I garden while I look at Glacier Park mountains. The weather is moist and pleasant most of the year except for a month of really cold in January. Lots of hardscape available here for making the garden beautiful year round. Here is an envy picture. It is only 20 minutes from our house.
Check the PH and see what you are in the amended soil. Calcium salts will leak off the patio for years after mortar. You already are alkaline in CO and I am also. My colombines thrive here in PH of 6.8 to 7. I had to make all of my soils and am still doing it so that is why I asked about soils. My areas that I haven't ammended at least 3' have been difficult to grow the acid loving plants. Grass likes PH over 7 so maybe that is why it is doing well.

That looks like a grub kTalia, as far as I can see from the picture. True?

Nice picture Soferdig.

Just to make you mad at me this is a collage of some of my columbines.

Nice sofer. I have a few too.

Oh my gosh. I never thought to look at the PH needs for columbine. I just assumed most of Colorado was alkaline and they're the state flower. How silly of me. Of course they won't grow in my yard. The only place they might possibly be ok is way too shady. Oh well, giving up on Columbines for now then. I don't remember my pH exactly, but I think it was about 8.2 before I started changing things around here. So it's still pretty close to that I'm sure.

A grub, I don't know, I've never met one, but that's what I assumed it was based on the few pictures I've seen.

You're right, the waterfall is absolutely wonderful. And if you live by Glacier National, that would explain the familiarity because I know we went there when I was a child. You're Columbine are adorable, the reds especially.

I get a few from seed every year and hope to get a nice hybrid. Who knows.
I always go into Glacier about 2 or 3 times a summer. It gets pretty crowded after Memorial Day. So my favorite trip is on my bicycle while they are plowing out the Going to the Sun road. They keep the cars off and let hikers and bikers use the open portion. It is most beautiful then with the alpine flowers and massive snow still on the peaks.

I've grown columbines successfully in both my current and previous residence. The previous residence had more clay and a soil pH of 8.3. One of the biggest issues with pH is nutrient availability. The mixed in compost or organic matter should lower the pH and make nutrients more available.

Grubs are certainly likely to eat the roots. Addressing them should help if there are more of them.