Winter, is this a good time to prune JM?

Central, AL(Zone 7b)

I've these two 'Crimson Queen' Japanese Maples that frame my little Koi pond. One of the two has an unruly growth branch that is crowding out the side walk. The branch is pretty large, say about a double D-size battery in circumferrence. I need to saw it off close to the base of the main trunk. Will this be a good time to do so? I remember reading somewhere that pruning JM during growing season will cause them to secrete saps that could be injurous to the health of the tree.

Thumbnail by Lily_love
Prattville, AL

With the storms we have in Alabama, my JM's get pruned anytime during the year with the winds taking off branches part-way.
I let my one acer branch close to the bottom of the trunk for an umbrella effect. We get high straight winds and winds from the hurricanes. A large bottom branch was broke part way. This is not the way a professional would do but I certainly am not a professional and wanted to keep that branch. I took duct tape and wrapped around the branch and tree untill firmly in place. I then took pruning sealer and sprayed the whole area of the break and around it. The duct tape rotted off but I still have my branch.
I use pruning sealer anytime I cut a branch off any tree. It has worked well. Being sealed, no sap seeping and no disease.
I spray the area and then go back when dried to spray again in any cracks that formed or missed places.
Lynn

Danville, IN

Major pruning of JMs (such as what you want to do,Lily Love) should be undertaken during the dormant season, after leaves have fallen, from late November to early January, well before the sap starts rising and leafing out. So... it would seem that you are right on time for this operation. When removing a larger limb, what you want to do, the cut should be made just above the branch collar-the ridge or line when the branch joins the trunk or older branch. Never cut beyond this point or you're welcoming disease. Use a sharp tool and, according to research (studies and trials done in the 80s and 90s) do NOT use tree-wound paint. Painting the pruning wound prevents drying out and disease spores, which are inevitably on the wood surface, can thrive in the sealed wound as they are protected from the elements, with ample moisture and food to grow. Letting the wound dry out discourages the germination of disease spores.

Corrective pruning (smaller twigs, etc.) and shaping can be done at any time of the year, except when the sap is rising (early spring up to leaf out).

Source: Japanese Maples by J.D. Vertrees (3rd Edition)



This message was edited Jan 5, 2009 7:34 PM

Holland, OH(Zone 5b)

I pruned all my JM's day before yesterday. I pruned Niwaki style. It's the first time I've tried this style of pruning. I must say that it really brought out the limb structure. The effect on the Viridis and the Sekimori was stunning. It's really beautiful done that way. The Omuryama is quite small so it's hard to tell it was touched. The more upright forms ( Purple Ghost, Shirazz, Uki gumo and Autumn Moon) don't look as improved. It's the boldest I've ever been with the pruners. If it's the first time you do it you take off a lot of plant material. Just looking at the winter branch form I'm really, really glad I did it. I wish I'd done before and after shots.

Central, AL(Zone 7b)

H.G. thanks for sharing. Lynn appreciated your input. Snapple45, how about some 'after' pix? I'll see about taken some pix on mine in a little while.

This message was edited Jan 7, 2009 7:49 AM

Pepperell, MA(Zone 6a)

i'd be interested in the after shots as well.

Holland, OH(Zone 5b)

As soon as it quits raining/snowing/sleeting and all the nasty stuff we're having I'll get the camera out.

Central, AL(Zone 7b)

Thanks. Okay here is mine. I may have to log off as we're expecting some bad weather. I'll return when the weather clears off.

Thumbnail by Lily_love
Central, AL(Zone 7b)

Zero in to the trunk of the tree that needs to be pruned back.

Thumbnail by Lily_love
Central, AL(Zone 7b)

This is the big branch that I wanted to take off...

Thumbnail by Lily_love
Holland, OH(Zone 5b)

The first thing you do in Niwaki is to remove all small branches sprouting off the trunk. Then the fun begins. Remove any branches pointing accutely vertical. Easier said than done in a tree that branches totally upright. In the hard upright JM's I just trimmed out any that would ultimately cross another branch and made an opposite removal on the other side, one branch up, to keep the tree balanced. Then you work on the limbs you've chosen to leave.
Japanese Maple limbs have opposite branching. One pair of buds will have one bud pointing up and the bud other pointing at the ground. In the next set of buds, each bud points horizontal. Remove the branches pointing vertical and those that point towards the ground (they arise from the same set of buds). Then remove every other horizontal branch, choosing those that don't hit or cross another limb. In Niwaki you're going for the horizontal. There is a good book called "Niwaki" by Jake Hobson ( Amazon ) that gives the history, detailed instructions and illustrations about pruning shrubs, conifers and deciduous trees in this way. It's what I followed. You are literally removing 3/4 of side brances on each limb. I've never removed so much from a tree in my life. But I will admit I loved the look when I was done. I'll be holding my breath next spring.

When I was unsure of what to prune I just kept coming back to "admonition" that you're going always for horizontal branching. Apparently the tangled look comes mostly from those pesky little side limbs pointing up and down.

Does this make any sense?

Central, AL(Zone 7b)

My Kois say "That's alot to digest" at one sitting. lol. Thanks Snapple, give me some time to figure that out.

Thumbnail by Lily_love
Holland, OH(Zone 5b)

Finally! Some sun! Here's my crude attempt at Niwaki pruning on a Sekimori. Funny, but when I uploaded these shots from camera to computer I saw two small branches I should have pruned away. I'll be heading back out later with pruners.

Thumbnail by snapple45
Holland, OH(Zone 5b)

From the other side. This shot best illustrates, as least as good as I can any way, that the attempt was to remove anything that crossed (obviously), and anything that grew vertically - either sticking akwardley straight up and straight down.

Thumbnail by snapple45
Holland, OH(Zone 5b)

The Viridis. It wasn't possible to find a clearer view of the branch structure. I hope you can at least get a sense of it. Prune for the horizontal, remove things crossing or sticking straight up or straight down.

Thumbnail by snapple45
Pepperell, MA(Zone 6a)

that looks very nice - how come your not helping with the shoveling?

Central, AL(Zone 7b)

Nice collection on your JM snapples45! I enjoyed your illustrations. Thank you, oh by the way, when you're through with snow shoveling, could y'all bring some buckets and help me drain some of this flood? lol
Winterery wicked weather!!!

Thumbnail by Lily_love
Holland, OH(Zone 5b)

wah - Oh! You saw that huh? Well, there was a lot of mumbling going on over there and I though it best to stay out of his way!

Lily-love, it looks like your getting much worse to deal with than our light snow. Yikes!

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