I've these two 'Crimson Queen' Japanese Maples that frame my little Koi pond. One of the two has an unruly growth branch that is crowding out the side walk. The branch is pretty large, say about a double D-size battery in circumferrence. I need to saw it off close to the base of the main trunk. Will this be a good time to do so? I remember reading somewhere that pruning JM during growing season will cause them to secrete saps that could be injurous to the health of the tree.
Winter, is this a good time to prune JM?
With the storms we have in Alabama, my JM's get pruned anytime during the year with the winds taking off branches part-way.
I let my one acer branch close to the bottom of the trunk for an umbrella effect. We get high straight winds and winds from the hurricanes. A large bottom branch was broke part way. This is not the way a professional would do but I certainly am not a professional and wanted to keep that branch. I took duct tape and wrapped around the branch and tree untill firmly in place. I then took pruning sealer and sprayed the whole area of the break and around it. The duct tape rotted off but I still have my branch.
I use pruning sealer anytime I cut a branch off any tree. It has worked well. Being sealed, no sap seeping and no disease.
I spray the area and then go back when dried to spray again in any cracks that formed or missed places.
Lynn
Major pruning of JMs (such as what you want to do,Lily Love) should be undertaken during the dormant season, after leaves have fallen, from late November to early January, well before the sap starts rising and leafing out. So... it would seem that you are right on time for this operation. When removing a larger limb, what you want to do, the cut should be made just above the branch collar-the ridge or line when the branch joins the trunk or older branch. Never cut beyond this point or you're welcoming disease. Use a sharp tool and, according to research (studies and trials done in the 80s and 90s) do NOT use tree-wound paint. Painting the pruning wound prevents drying out and disease spores, which are inevitably on the wood surface, can thrive in the sealed wound as they are protected from the elements, with ample moisture and food to grow. Letting the wound dry out discourages the germination of disease spores.
Corrective pruning (smaller twigs, etc.) and shaping can be done at any time of the year, except when the sap is rising (early spring up to leaf out).
Source: Japanese Maples by J.D. Vertrees (3rd Edition)
This message was edited Jan 5, 2009 7:34 PM
I pruned all my JM's day before yesterday. I pruned Niwaki style. It's the first time I've tried this style of pruning. I must say that it really brought out the limb structure. The effect on the Viridis and the Sekimori was stunning. It's really beautiful done that way. The Omuryama is quite small so it's hard to tell it was touched. The more upright forms ( Purple Ghost, Shirazz, Uki gumo and Autumn Moon) don't look as improved. It's the boldest I've ever been with the pruners. If it's the first time you do it you take off a lot of plant material. Just looking at the winter branch form I'm really, really glad I did it. I wish I'd done before and after shots.
H.G. thanks for sharing. Lynn appreciated your input. Snapple45, how about some 'after' pix? I'll see about taken some pix on mine in a little while.
This message was edited Jan 7, 2009 7:49 AM
i'd be interested in the after shots as well.
As soon as it quits raining/snowing/sleeting and all the nasty stuff we're having I'll get the camera out.
The first thing you do in Niwaki is to remove all small branches sprouting off the trunk. Then the fun begins. Remove any branches pointing accutely vertical. Easier said than done in a tree that branches totally upright. In the hard upright JM's I just trimmed out any that would ultimately cross another branch and made an opposite removal on the other side, one branch up, to keep the tree balanced. Then you work on the limbs you've chosen to leave.
Japanese Maple limbs have opposite branching. One pair of buds will have one bud pointing up and the bud other pointing at the ground. In the next set of buds, each bud points horizontal. Remove the branches pointing vertical and those that point towards the ground (they arise from the same set of buds). Then remove every other horizontal branch, choosing those that don't hit or cross another limb. In Niwaki you're going for the horizontal. There is a good book called "Niwaki" by Jake Hobson ( Amazon ) that gives the history, detailed instructions and illustrations about pruning shrubs, conifers and deciduous trees in this way. It's what I followed. You are literally removing 3/4 of side brances on each limb. I've never removed so much from a tree in my life. But I will admit I loved the look when I was done. I'll be holding my breath next spring.
When I was unsure of what to prune I just kept coming back to "admonition" that you're going always for horizontal branching. Apparently the tangled look comes mostly from those pesky little side limbs pointing up and down.
Does this make any sense?
that looks very nice - how come your not helping with the shoveling?
wah - Oh! You saw that huh? Well, there was a lot of mumbling going on over there and I though it best to stay out of his way!
Lily-love, it looks like your getting much worse to deal with than our light snow. Yikes!
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