Crimson King Maple

Hi,
I was wondering how fast a CKM should grow?
I planted one about 4 years ago and I don't think it is one stick bigger now than it was then.
The other types have grown well, and I water it, ect. It looks fine. It leafs out in the spring, holds its leaves till fall ect. Just no growth.
any ideas?

I've not grown CKM, but had great success with its counter part, the Crimson Queen. Hopefully my comments will bump this thread up for more input from others that could assist you with your questions?

I don't have a CKM, but have grown a Red Maple from a stick (as you call it). It too sat there for several years, healthy, but without much growth. Since you've had it for several years, I wouldn't hesitate to use a Peterson root waterer with fertilizer in it. They aren't expensive and they get water/fertilizer right to the main business of the tree. Top watering/feeding won't do it. It runs off and you get nice green grass instead. I picked mine up at a garage sale, but I know Lowe's and other garden centers sell them along with the fertilizer pellets and go into the glass jar on top. Give it a try. It took my tree at least 4 years to get going, but it's now 12' tall.

'Crimson King' is a dark purple- (effectively, black-) foliaged cultivar of Norway Maple. Fast-growing, and invasive in your area. If yours has failed, count that as a blessing.

'Crimson Queen' is a purple-foliaged cultivar of Japanese Maple, slower-growing, little more than a large shrub.

Red Maple is very different; it is a green-foliaged species, with red leaves only in autumn. Fairly fast-growing.

Resin

I must add to what Resin has said regarding the Crimson King. We had several on our block and most are ugly, burnt and invasive. I'm constanting pulling baby maples out of my yard. These trees were planted 30 years ago and are now dying.

I bought it at a local nursery so I can't imagine them selling something on the invasive species list?
There are not very many of them around, which inclines me to believe they do not do well here. They are hard to find and expensive when I do see them.

The Japanese Queen maples are expensive, grow very slow and are not desirable as a shade tree, really only ornamental. Most here get about 10 - 15 feet tall. The trouble with them also is that they are barely hardy in my zone. Most people plant them on the south side of the house, or other wind block around front porch area. They are a short lived tree as well for the zone here.

The tree is about 6 -7 foot tall. I pruned some unruly stuff off when I planted it, loosened the 'mulch' around the root ball and then mixed compost into the soil before planting. It gets plenty of water. So I am thinking even though I don't fertilize the other trees, maybe I should this one? I could try that and see if it helps. I have not staked the tree, but it seems rooted well, and I do not notice it move much when it is windy.

'Crimson King' Norway Maple (Acer platanoides 'Crimson King') is, as mentioned above, a potential invasive species in many parts of the eastern United States. It can be (and often is) a short-lived tree for many other reasons, including borers, girdling roots, intolerance of site conditions, etc. Except for the dark foliage, there are not a lot of positive attributes that would make me recommend this species for planting for shade or otherwise.

Here is an anecdote that may "color" future decisions:

A thoroughbred horse farm was established on a very nicely situated and fine piece of property in central KY. Proudly, the owners planted an allée of this tree selection to grandly line the main entry to their enterprise, which they subsequently named Crimson King Farm.

Not too many years later (maybe 10-12), every one of these trees summarily headed into decline, and today (20 years +/-) not a single 'Crimson King' Norway Maple is left alive there.

Certainly, no tree selection is without its hazards. But for a long term investment and expectation for long life and ample shade, doing some quality homework before choosing a permanent feature like a canopy tree will pay huge dividends in satisfaction.

It should be noted that all Norway maple cultivars do poorly the further south one gets in the US. In the South (Zone 7 and higher) the warm summer nights retard growth and the trees are not as vigorous as in northern latitudes, usually petering out in just a few years. Perhaps that's the problem with yours?

ah ha!
I don't know where the tree was 'originally' from before I purchased it. It is possible the tree was 'raised' up north farther and never adapted to my warmer area. Our summers here are terribly hot, often topping 100 F. And pretty dry.

I also thought of the root bound thing, because it seems so sturdy, I am sure it has a good root system. Was very 'pot bound' when I bought it. I thought loosening the soil and the roots would help, maybe not?

Like I said, I haven't seen many of them around here, maybe they don't do well so many people don't plant them.

Well the dark foliage is exactly why I planted it!
Most all trees are green, and I wanted something different. Maple trees are not good shade trees for 'gardens' anyway IMO because the roots are usually invasive. Silver maples are very popular around here and WORTHLESS IMO. Very, invasive root systems and weak wood- don't survive storms or high wind.

I see a lot of CMKs planted in older subdivisions and homes in town. I have yet to see one that looks good. They don't get tall and stately like a hardwood Maple. The dark leaves offer no fall color. They just turn brown and fall off. If it's the purple leaves you like, how about a Fagus, (Beech). Their leaves are purple and also offer fall color. Don't know if they're hardy in your zone, but do well in my Zone 5.

How large of a shade tree do you need in your situation? Pastime is right that a purple beech is a great tree, weeping or upright, but very slow-growing. Other more quickly growing trees would include 'Newport' flowering plum (20' x 20'), many red-leaved varieties of flowering crabapple such as 'Prairiefire', 'Profusion', & especially 'Purple Prince' (all of them get to 20' x 20'), the beautiful red-leafed redbud 'Forest Pansy' (15' x 15'), and finally the wonderful red-leafed cultivars of Japanese Maples, especially 'Bloodgood', 'Emperor', and 'Fireglow' (all get to 20' x 15') which should do very well in your area. Although none of these would get to the size of maples, they would add that rich red foliage to your landscape. There are also red-leaved shrubs that get to a good size such as 'Diablo' ninebark (10' x10').

I was wanting something rather large, and fairly fast growing.
Nothing that needs lots of water.
Invasive roots wouldn't be too bad, not near the house.

The flowering plum would be the fastest growing, but the crabapples would do well too. I don't know of any red-leafed tree that would get larger than 20' though. Any of them would need regular watering (in lieu of rain) the first year especially, to get established.

Two red leaved trees that look great in local gardens I have noticed are the Crimson Frost birch in a three trunk clump. These grow fast, and the triple clumped trunk provide enough leaves for some shade. The other is Prunus Serrulata "Royal Burgundy'", which has gorgeous flowers in the spring, like pink carnations.

I forgot to mention I read recently that "Royal Frost" Birch is listed as an improvement over Crimson Frost. More upright and resistance to borers. I have not seen any evidence of borers on the Crimson Frost Birches around here, and they are 20 years or more.

I have a crimson frost birch in my front yard. Do not like it at all. Leans real bad, falls over in ice storms, always has to be pulled up. Have had it for like 7 or 8 years now. Also the leaves all fall off about August every year. Very pretty bark though. And leaves if they would just stay on!

Oh my! It does present some problems doesn't it? Do you have a shot of it leafed out and upright?

I see.

Birches have to have good, rich and moist (but well-drained) soil to grow well. When planted, I always plant shallow, but mound up all around with excellent, enriched topsoil to create a small berm, usually planted with a few evergreens and/or perennials. The birch will grow quickly and the trunks will be much stronger. The ones I've planted directly in existing topsoil seem to have the problem FrillyLily has with hers. (I have a landscaping business and have planted dozens of birches over the past 25 years.) Also, quaintcharm is correct about the red-leafed birches. 'Royal Frost' is more resistant to borer than the beautiful 'Crimson Frost'. However, I don't know that either would do too well much over Zone 6 because of the summer heat.