dividing iris will they bloom

Kansas City (Joyce), MO(Zone 5a)

I am dividing iris this year and would like to do all the beds but really want blooms next year also.
Will they bloom next spring?

Will have some to trade because they haven't been divided in about 5 or more years.
Deveta Marite
Infinate Grace
and this one but I don't know the name it is pale lavender with orange beards, very pretty

Thumbnail by happgarden
Nilwood, IL(Zone 5b)

Some will and some won't. You just take a chance. BEV

South Hamilton, MA

It depends a great deal on how much increase they can make during the time until bloom. It is interesting, some of the plants hurry on & make many fall increases & some wait until spring.

Kansas City (Joyce), MO(Zone 5a)

Why do we divide in the late season and not right after blooming?
Seems to me then they would have all summer to recover and be more apt to bloom.

Hate to think of a spring without blooms....

This message was edited Aug 23, 2008 6:29 PM

South Hamilton, MA

We usually divide in July & here we are in Aug & not finished, haven't set out new seedling either.

Deer River, MN(Zone 3b)

I start digging and dividing immediately after bloom. Not really any other safe choice here in the far north. I do, however, grow most cultivars in two clumps in separate beds so that when I divide one clump, I still have the other undivided, mature clump to give me spring bloom the next year.

Kansas City (Joyce), MO(Zone 5a)

That is a good idea, wish I would of thought of that years ago.
Think I will do that this year. Thank you for the tip. Now I will only be sad for one year...LOL

Nilwood, IL(Zone 5b)

Sounds like the best idea ever. Thanks BEV

Los Alamos, NM(Zone 5a)

I try to divide only a few each year, so I have lots of flowers if the divided ones don't bloom the first year after division. Of course, that doesn't work unless you two or more iris.

Lake Toxaway, NC(Zone 7a)

While they may not be at their glorious best, I have many irises that I divided bloom the following spring.
I got a Clarence at the Southern Appalachian Round-up but it didn't make it. I really wanted that one because I am trying to build my irises around reliable rebloomers.

I have found that the best time is right after they have finished blooming, more time to reestablish and they seem to rebound quicker.

Saint Paul, MN

I was always told to wait about four to five weeks after bloom time to dig and separate. That way after they bloom, the iris can grow their increases and they can develop roots. In my experience, here in southern Minnesota (zone 4), you can start dividing after the fourth of July unless it is a late year for blooming as this year was. Also, when you divide, replant them immediately after you amend the soil (I use lots of compost, garden lime and alfalfa pellets). Don't let the roots dry out at all. If you pick a few of the largest increases and give them some room to grow, I usually get bloom on most of them a little bit late the following year. If you wait until late August or September here, they may survive the winter but probably won't bloom until after two years. I think the idea of having duplicate clumps and only digging one is a great idea. Some iris cultivars just take time to reestablish themselves (orange and pink ones usually). Typically I find that a newly planted rhizome needs to grow five or six leaves before they are large enough to bloom.

Thumbnail by irisguy2
LaFollette, TN(Zone 6a)

I would be interested in trading. Here in eastern TN, I have divided as late as October and still have blooms the following spring.

wilmington, United States

I have iris plants for 2 years but have never had a flower....why

I think i will finally dig them up.

Lakes of the Four Se, IN(Zone 5a)

luc_y, don't give up just yet. A few years back when I started growing bearded iris, I planted 3 rhizomes. One bloomed the 2nd year after planting, but the other 2 didn't bloom until the 3rd year -- and they've been very reliable since. So give them another year. It'll be well worth the wait.

South Hamilton, MA

The other advice besides 'wait' is check for amount of sun, (at least 1/2 day, more is better) and planting depth. The top of the rhizome should be visible in most cases.

Lake Toxaway, NC(Zone 7a)

Lady on the hill, do you have any Clarence you'd like to trade?

Kansas City (Joyce), MO(Zone 5a)

I read some where if the rhizone is too deep it will slow blooming.
I have some iris under trees and they bloom because the iris bloom before the tree is in full leaf. They don't bloom as heavy as others, but sometimes last longer because it is cooler under the tree toward the end of the season if it gets real hot early.

South Hamilton, MA

Too deep may prevent blooming.

Blanchard, MI(Zone 5a)

The condition of the rz is also something to consider, I after dividing and replanting "Breakers" this year I have a bloomstalk on one of the divisions and most first year plants of mine will try to bloom next spring weather permitting last spring the weather was a bust with most of my lower garden sending up stalks only to be frozen or the flowers to be deformed. The healthier the better.

Lake Toxaway, NC(Zone 7a)

Most often, if iris don't bloom, it's because they are planted too deeply. Rhizomes should actually show a little above the soil. The roots are quite long and absorb the nutrients.

South Hamilton, MA

Rhizomes are a food storing stem, the roots carry the nutrition of the plant--perhaps not a great way to put it. Because the rhizomes look large, people often ask me how my bulbs are doing & I have to explain. they do need the sun. In a few hot climates the rhyzomes are protected with a scattering of soil.

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