Dividing lavender

Chalfont, PA(Zone 6b)

Does anyone know how lavender feels about being divided and transplanted in the fall? I have some lavender in my garden that I'd like to divide and transplant to a place by a walkway (hoping that people brush up against it and release its scent). I think the stuff I have in my garden is 'Provence'. Anyone have luck dividing this stuff?
Thanks so much,
Pam

Chicago, IL(Zone 5b)

Sorry I can't answer your question; just didn't want to see your question with no responses.

I have had 3 Provence plants; but over the last 3 years, I lost one a year, for reasons I don't know. I've had Munstead when I lived elsewhere, and it seemed very hardy. Based on my experience only, it seems as if Provence is more tempermental. I hope you have better luck than I had. :-)

Albuquerque, NM(Zone 7a)

Here's a site with some discussion about this:
http://www.mothering.com/discussions/archive/index.php/t-20107.html

My huge six year old Provence died off in the center when we had
big snow storms. It's such a woody plant that dividing the living parts
may be a challenge but I think I'll give it a try in the Spring.

Cincinnati, OH(Zone 6a)

This site says lavender shouldn't be divided. Never tried it myself. They tend to be short lived for me. I don't think they like my clay soil in winter.

See "don't divide these perennials."
http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/hgic1150.htm

Karen

Albuquerque, NM(Zone 7a)

Lavender does pretty well here in the desert. I have several small
varieties growing in various gardens, and the huge one did thrive
for six years. Having an unexpected 20 inches of snow dumped on
it apparently did a lot of damage to the center, although there is
a solid ring of thriving branches around the perimeter.

It's so unattractive now with all those dead branches in the
center and no signs of new growth appearing there that
it may just be time to give it up.



Cincinnati, OH(Zone 6a)

Well, generally, when perennials die out in the center they just need dividing. If it looks that bad that you're going to give it up, I'd try dividing first. I'd do it in fall. If it looks that bad it might not make it through winter without something.

Of course, your winter and my winter differ a little.

Karen

Upstate, NY(Zone 5a)

That is good advice kq. Mine are starting to look a little sparse in the center. I've been waiting to see if this thread got a reply.

Dublin, CA(Zone 9a)

I don't know this for a fact, but lavenders are one of those plants I've always thought couldn't be divided, the way they grow they're almost more like a woody shrub rather than a typical perennial. I think if you cut them back hard every year they won't get that dead in the middle look (although that may not help if you get 20 inches of snow dumped on it!) Once they already are like that though I'm not sure how to fix it--if you're going to toss it otherwise I'd probably try cutting it back in the spring and see if it regrows.

(Rosie) Belturbet, Ireland

They can't be divided. But easy to take cuttings. I took a few from a large plant in spring, planted them directly beside the parent plant in very free draining compost and most of them took. I was chuffed to bits :-))
Rosie

Newark, OH(Zone 5b)

I agree that they would not divide in the traditional sense because they are more like small woody shrubs. My elderly Mom lives with me, and sometimes "helps" me in the garden. One day when I was at work she decided to "tidy up" a long row of lavender by giving it a severe haircut. She cut it from perhaps 16" to 4" or so. Every one died. Now she knows to only trim the dead blooms off. She thought it would be like a rose - and re-sprout from the base wood - but none of them did.

I have heard the best way is to peg some of the branches down onto the soil, cover lightly with mulch, and they will root. Then you can cut the branch from the mother plant, and move the start to a new location. I think they call this "layering." I've done it with PJM rhodies and mahonia hollies.

I must admit - when I want more, I buy it in spring. I have not had luck starting from seed, or rooting cuttings. I've layered other types of plants before, but have not tried with lavender. It's been kind of tricky for me to get going, and I'd rather start out with a bushy, healthy start from the nursery.

I have one called 'Violet Intrigue' that's been the best one here. Have not been able to find it a a nursery in the last couple years. It's been growing here for several years now.

Cincinnati, OH(Zone 6a)

I've layered hydrangeas that way and it worked very well. Never tried it with lavender though. I think it would work with a lot of plants.

Seems to me that lavender's survival depends mostly on sharp draining soil, especially in winter. I've been amending my clay soil for years and I think it drains pretty well for clay, but not well enough for things like lavender and gaillardia. They'll do OK for a year or two, but bolt in a harsh, wet winter.

I start most of my plants from seed by wintersowing. I usually don't get great germination on lavender, but even if I get a few plants from a small pack of seeds, it's still a lot cheaper than buying plants. And of course, more fun.

Karen

(Rosie) Belturbet, Ireland

Lavender is a shrub - not a perennial. And it does like good drainage. Ive never tried it from seed but then the weather is a bit on the cool side here. Occassionally it will die for no real reason but I still love it to bits. The herb garden doesn't seem the same without it.
This is a good link http://www.francemonthly.com/n/0606/index.php They grow particularly well in South eastern France.
:-)) Rosie

When my Lavender died in the center I cut back all the dead woody growth. It looked ugly for one season and then filled in again,full as Ever. I agree about the layering, my Honeysucle did well that way. It must depend on either the type of lavender or your location, my Lavenders comback frmo pretty severe haircuts, but only in warmer weather would I do it; that maya have been that problem.
cheers
:Darren

Albuquerque, NM(Zone 7a)

Darren - I think I'll take your suggestion and leave mine to winter over one
more time. If new growth starts to fill in the dead center part that will be
great. And, if not, we'll dig it up next Spring.

Yes, it (depending on variety) should be good to go thru a winter ( mine always have to 18 farenheit ) and come back fine in the spring. as soon as you see new growth in spring start trimming it lightly every month especially any blooms this will encourage the center growth to occur I believe, it is what appears to have happened hta way for me for a couple years. Enjoy and great gardening!
:D

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