Questions about soil??

Myrtle Beach, SC(Zone 8b)

After many years of neglect and pine tree and weed removal. The soil is somewhat sandy filled with pine tree mulch. I have seen some earthworms in my digging. My question is - should I bring in top soil and compost or will it be alright as is??

southern willamette , OR(Zone 7a)

If you haven't had it done before, I think that you should consider having your soil tested or getting a kit and doing it yourself. That will give you a better idea of what your soil might be lacking or in excess of and then a better idea of what mixture of soil to have brought in, if it seems that bringing in soild would be a good thing to do.

Hammond, LA(Zone 8b)

I am a big proponant (sp?) of compost. I always add some if I feel my soil is lacking.

southern willamette , OR(Zone 7a)

your right, if I would've thought about it I would've said soil and/or compost.... my brain is going to sleep already.

Myrtle Beach, SC(Zone 8b)

OKay - so I should bring in top soil and compost even I have found earth worms??

southern willamette , OR(Zone 7a)

I think that it is probably so, but if you have it tested first it may reveal that you have pretty well rounded stuff to begin with. Ocasionally, the worms don't have much to choose from as far as good soil goes, so they go to where they soil has some moisture and the next best thing.

Myrtle Beach, SC(Zone 8b)

So moisture is the key. My small patch of dirt is really dry.I water the plants but I have noticed that the dirt about about 2 inches down is dry.

Burwash Weald, United Kingdom(Zone 9b)

Is this the first season that you have gardened on this soil? I think I would vote for compost to raise the organic matter in sandy soil - and then a year of rain getting to it. If it is really that dry, you definately need to add organic material - but I also think your plants are going to appreciate a bit of time passing for the soil to really get wet. The organic material will help hold the water.
I find myself wondering if this is a situation where a lasagne bed would be a good way forward, not so much to block anything out, but a way of getting more organic matter and moisture into your soil?

Do you have a big compost bin, or access to cheap/free organic matter?



Cincinnati, OH(Zone 6a)

I agree, build lasagna. You don't need to pay for topsoil- it will most likely be mostly sand since that seems to in comprise much of your native soil. If you add lots of mulch on top- like a foot of it- it will break down and compost in place. You can use any organic matter you can get- grass clippings, leaves, shredded paper, UCGs, etc. That would probably do want you are trying to achieve, and be free.

Karen

Myrtle Beach, SC(Zone 8b)

There is a lot of pine tree mulch in the mix. But it is really dry. I know dirt is not just dirt. I have brought in bags of top soil and compost to the areas I have planted. So I guess my next question is --to get enough moisture in there and see what the composition is then??

southern willamette , OR(Zone 7a)

How long does it take to do this lasagna thing?

Burwash Weald, United Kingdom(Zone 9b)

Redchic - that is 'how long is a piece of string' - depends on size of bed, amount of material, ambient temperature, and moisture - TC is in South Carolina (?) so my image is of a moderately wet summer, with high humidity and warm temperatures - with a good mix of wet and dry material, well blended and a topping of well rotted manure TC will probably have a good breaking down by early spring -

Disputanta, VA(Zone 7a)

at what point would your mixture ready to be topped with manure?

Cincinnati, OH(Zone 6a)

Since I've never lived in a rural area I have no experience with manure. But just keep in mind that what you are doing is composting in place, so you need adequate C to balance the N manure.

I generally top my lasagna with leaves or wood mulch to absorb any possible resulting odors just in case I get too much N or too much rain.

Karen

Burwash Weald, United Kingdom(Zone 9b)

davis - again it really depends on what you are looking for - I put about 18"/.5m of green and dry material on mine - then top out with a 6"/.3m of compost/soil/manure on that. You can either wait until you have the entire bed covered or do it in sections - its really about following your own sense of making a bed. In fact, the whole nature of lasagne is to build up layers - just as you would in a dish of lasagne - so if you want to put down a thin layer of green (n=nitrogen) and brown (c=carbon) material, then dirt, than another layer of green and brown - there is nothing stopping you.

I hadn't thought of people in city centre not having access to manure, but you are right of course kq - although i do know that some of people in London get it delivered from the race tracks! People become very enterprising when looking for lasagne materials!! If you happen to have a riding school not too far, they may be willing to bring some to you. But its also worth checking to see if your city has a recycling programme - a lot of places now collect and compost garden waste and then sell it back in bags very cheaply.

Cincinnati, OH(Zone 6a)

I have no problem getting garden waste- I generate plenty of it. And I have no problem generating lasagna material. I just don't use manure.

Karen

Cincinnati, OH(Zone 6a)

And I should have added I don't use peat either, nor do I "cook" it under plastic, though I understand Lanza's book recommends both of those.

Karen

Fredericksburg, VA(Zone 7b)

Lanza doesn't really recommend "cooking" using plastic. It's really only effective if you do it in the summer when the sun is the hottest. If I had that kind of a problem area I think I would opt to use some type of green manure cover crop to smother. You don't have to use manure, but it's normally one of the easiest things to use to provide the N and in most places is readily available. I went to coir instead of peat for my layers, it's much more environmentally friendly and actually is less expensive, and it spreads easier and unexpected bonus. LOL

Right now I'm experimenting using regular lasanga beds and others that are a combination of lasanga sprayed with bokashi juice. So far the one's sprayed with the bokashi are ahead of the others. those beds are mainly either roses or young perennials. Very interesting concept. I also see additional growth in my veggies. Trying to keep good notes so I can do a good comparison when this is all done.

Disputanta, VA(Zone 7a)

thanks for the input. I've posted a question on this forum, I hope you'll find the time to take a look.

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