compost starter recipe

Plano, TX

i was looking at a website that sells compost starter--said it included cocoa meal, alphalfa and peanut meal--was wondering if anyone has ever seen a recipe to make their own?

(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN(Zone 6b)

No I haven't, although we've certainly talked about adding things that will fire up a cool pile. There's a lot of folks who pooh-pooh the "starters", but if it gets the compost going, (or gets a person composting!) I say go for it.... didja google it?

Plano, TX

didn't google it but that's a good idea and i think i will--my compost pile doesn't need help right now but i am also just laying a bunch of leaves, shredded paper and a little bit of coffee grounds on some larger flower beds and thought maybe it would help those break up faster--since they are doing the cold compost thing

(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN(Zone 6b)

You might want to try just throwing in some of the alfalfa pellets - it or some manure should aid. I googled and didn't come up with much, but maybe you'll have better luck than I did.

I don't remember what your winters are like (I lived in Garland briefly about 20 years ago) but you'll want to make sure your beds are staying pretty moist, too, in order to aid the breakdown. When I lived in Phoenix, it could take years for something like layers of paper to actually break down without any water added.

Plano, TX

i always hear about alfalfa but does it sprout at all? good idea for the added water-will remember that--you move around a bit i guess--i love TN--i bet it is a nice place to garden--good soil?

(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN(Zone 6b)

LOL- you've almost heard of it all. I was 19 when I was down in Texas, but in my 30s for Arizona.

No, I've honestly never seen any seeds in the alfalfa cubes and I think the pellets would be far too processed to have anything survive what they go through. I kinda wish there were some seeds, I'd like some alfalfa out in my pastures (I have 6 horses, otherwise I'd never be this familiar with the stuff!).

Tennessee is a nice place to garden, zone wise - not too cold and not too hot so there's a pretty wide range of plants. The problem is the soil - it's this brassy yellow clay - if you threw it on a wall it'd stick. Hence the compost addiction!

Plano, TX

oh--and here i thought it would be nice and rich and black soil!! must have been thinking of kentucky with their blue grass!! we have clay here too (as you know from living in garland)---from what i read clay is better than sandy soil tho--

(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN(Zone 6b)

True - plain sand is the worst. Especially on salt water.

But it sure sounds nice right now!!!!!

Mid-Cape, MA(Zone 7a)

Quoting:
True - plain sand is the worst. Especially on salt water.

Yikes, I've got plenty of plain sand here on the Cape, with salt water not far away. (Which is why I hang out on the soil and composting forum.)
The ONLY thing I hear good about sand is the drainage-factor.

Plano, TX

drainage is a problem with the clay ---

NORTH CENTRAL, PA(Zone 5a)

All compost boosters are designed to feed and jump start your micro herd or living biology of the compost pile.

Black Strap Molasses is the very best in my opinion to do get a pile all fired up. It is available at any place that mixes animal feeds for an average of $3.00 a gallon of $6.00 - $8.00 for five gallons.

Dry molasses is not molasses. It is chaff and other organic waist with a little molasses mixed in to create a product. The liquid is a much better buy for any reason.

All the other products mentioned above are good compost pile components.

Be aware that some animal food including pellets have a high sodium content. Spoiled hay or even good hay is better than horse manure because it has not been run through the horse.

Plano, TX

what do you think about putting the black strap molasses on lasagna type bedding? it is a liquid that you add to water? spoiled hay is just old hay?

NORTH CENTRAL, PA(Zone 5a)

Early spring and late fall use six ounces of molasses to a gallon of water and drench your lasagna with that application twice during your first time period when the soil temperature is at fifty degrees or above. In the fall back up to give yourself a month and two applications as your bed is cooling off but still above fifty degrees. These figures are for a one thousand square foot patch.

The second time period that you may use two ounces in a gallon of water and drench is when the fruit is starting to form. That will vary due to differences in growing days and regions of the country.

None of the above is rocket science so be not concerned if someone else offers a different opinion. What is basic is the fact that you are getting a good dose of carbs in there at the right time to have your biology well fed when it can grow and prosper. Then you are offering a mid season maintenance drench and finally a bed time snack so the whole community can go to sleep or into rest at the highest level and best condition possible.

Be not concerned when someone wonders if this will attract ants. No your biology is going to eat it all up. It might fatten up your worms. :)

Old spoiled hay is just a little bit closer to becoming compost. Nothing has been removed from it. It has to rot in process. It makes great mulch. We can buy it here sometimes for fifty cents a bale.

Plano, TX

thank you-thank you and thank you--good explanations!

Alexandria, IN(Zone 6a)

The link below sells a compost starter. I have no idea how well it works. Interesting theory.

http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/QR/QRapp1.html#tab4

NORTH CENTRAL, PA(Zone 5a)

One of the best soil boosters and compost starters is pure and simple feed grade black strap molasses. You find it where feed is made for cattle. Feed grade black strap molasses will be about three dollars a gallon or five gallons for under $10.00. In most instances you must supply the jug.
What boosters do is simply provide the carbs which enable your biology to get up and get going faster. You may use from two to eight ounces per gallon. Use the heavier amounts early in the spring and again as you are adding manures and leaves in the fall ahead of planting a cover crop.

Fredericksburg, VA(Zone 7b)

doc, I am coming to PA and buying molasses there. I don't want to have to tell you what I had to pay for 2 gals of feed grade molasses and was lucky to find it!! Sheesh!!!! This area gets more urban by the minute, sigh

Central Texas, TX(Zone 8b)

How about the addition of mycorrhizal fungi? Or is there enough of these present in most piles?

NORTH CENTRAL, PA(Zone 5a)

MYCORRHIZAE must have living roots as a host in order to live over the Northeastern Winters. Then the specific host comes into play and most of the hosts die off. Mycorrhizae has a shelf life of two years and should be used as new spore every spring. I like to take an old salt shaker and bore out the head holes. Makes a nice Mycorrhizae shaker. A couple of shakes like putting pepper on an egg is all that is needed in the planting holes. You can start it in the seed or cutting potted plants but that seems to me to be more work. I use the planting hole.

Cincinnati, OH(Zone 6a)

I never waste money on compost starter. Probably most if not all of the suggestions you've been given here will work to get the compost cooking, assuming that the mass of compostables is great enough. I just can't see see spending money on stuff to throw in the compost. Most any N source will work if you have enough. If I add nothing but grass clippings, leaves, and water mine heats up to 150 degrees within a day, guaranteed.

Sheet composting doesn't usually produce really hot compost, but I don't think it's supposed to. There isn't usually enough depth for it. However, I do find that covering my lasagna with burlap and keeping the hump moist does speed it up.

Karen

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