Vegetable oils?

Scotia, CA(Zone 9b)

We don't do a lot of fried food but occasionally we do enjoy a bowl of home fried corn chips or a fried burrito. Disposing of the used corn or canola oil is troublesome since I have to scrounge up a container to pour it into with a cap. There is never more than a cup of oil and usually less than that.

Since it is vegetable based oil, will it break down in a compost heap or will it just stay oily and ruin the compost because of the way it is created/processed? And if it will not break down, what is it doing to our landfills where it arrives in a plastic container that may take eons to decompose befor the oil is even exposed again?

If the oil can be composted that leaves the plastic free to go into recycling which would be better all around.

Any thoughts on this?

Mid-Cape, MA(Zone 7a)

Quoting:
Some materials are best left to high-rate, a thermophilic composting system, as they decompose slower, attract vermin and require higher temperatures to kill pathogens than backyard composting provides. These materials include meat, dairy products, eggs, restaurant grease, COOKING OIL, manure and bedding of non-herbivores, and residuals from the treatment of wastewater and drinking water. Meat and dairy products can be recycled using bokashi, a fermentation method, but milk and oil cannot.


Zanymuse, this is what Wikipedia says about composting cooking oil (I added the caps). What I managed to glean is that "thermophilic" composting is making sure your compost stays at a high temperature.
I read a few other sources that seemed to think using small quantities of used cooking oil wouldn't hurt--but could take longer to break down, e.g., would remain in rather greasy clumps, unless you mixed it in very well OR had a high-heat pile going.

I'm sure there are other, more experienced composters than I, who will have some personal experience on this subect.

Scotia, CA(Zone 9b)

Well, that sounds pretty clear. Guess it will have to continue on to the landfill :~(

Mid-Cape, MA(Zone 7a)

Quoting:
Guess it will have to continue on to the landfill :~(


I guess so--though I hate to discard anything that might have a second life as compost! The high temps that "thermophillic composting" requires are not unachievable and could be created by the dedicated turning and the addition of the right proportion of greens and browns. . . 120 degrees to 158 degrees F seems to be the optimum range.
What I've learned in my limited research of this very interesting question is that there's a whole school of thermophilic composting! And after the temperatures have been achieved for some time, the pile naturally cools down and the work is done.
There's also a lot of research into the "humanure" side of thermophiliac composting. . . apparently a long and honorable activity.
Boy, you never know what you're going to learn on DG!

Scotia, CA(Zone 9b)

I seem to be ableto get my pile up to 160 degrees for about 2 days at a time but then it cools to about 130 for a week and continues to drop from there to about 80 when I turn it but with each turn it only reheats to about 20 degrees less than the original heat each time. So after turning this weekend it only reheated to 140 degrees in 2 days and by Wednesday it will gradually cool again.

I don't know what it would take to keep the temps up to 140-150 long enough to break down the oils. Guess, I better start studying thermophilic composting.Never know when you might need to expound upon such a topic and enthrall listeners who have no clue what it is (and wanted to keep it that way) LOL can't let them live in ignorance now can I?

Mid-Cape, MA(Zone 7a)

Quoting:
WELL-MANAGED THERMOPHILIC COMPOSTING SYSTEM

Complete pathogen destruction is guaranteed by arriving at a temperature of 62°C (143.6°F) for one hour, 50°C (122°F) for one day, 46°C (114.8°F) for one week, or 43°C (109.4°F) for one month. It appears that no excreted pathogen can survive a temperature of 65°C (149°F) for more than a few minutes. A compost pile containing entrapped oxygen may rapidly rise to a temperature of 55°C (131°F) or above, or will maintain a temperature hot enough for a long enough period of time to thoroughly destroy human pathogens that may be in the humanure (see Figure 7.6). Furthermore, pathogen destruction is aided by microbial diversity, as discussed in Chapter 3. Table 7.14 indicates survival times of pathogens in a) soil, b) anaerobic decomposition conditions, c) composting toilets, and d) thermophilic compost piles.

Source: The Humanure Handbook. Jenkins Publishing, PO Box 607, Grove City, PA 16127.

You know what, Zanymuse? It sounds like you are already there! I'd just pour that cooking oil in--and you could probably pour other things in as well--eeeugh--I'll never tell, even when all your neighbors have compost-envy. LOL
This has really been one of the most interesting threads!

Scotia, CA(Zone 9b)

I think, with the small amounts of oil I have that I am going to go ahead and mix it into the hot center of the pile when I turn it again. Thanks! But I think I'll go ahead and use the indoor facilities myself ;~)

St. Louis County, MO(Zone 5a)

haha, I'm sure the neighbors will be glad.

Scotia, CA(Zone 9b)

LOL, yes, since their balcony is overlooking my compost pile it would give them a birds eye view that they might never recover from!

St. Louis County, MO(Zone 5a)

Oh My Eyes, My Eyes!

Scotia, CA(Zone 9b)

:~P

Central Texas, TX(Zone 8b)

I think it's okay to use small amouts of oil as long as you don't use gallons. LOL!!!

Scotia, CA(Zone 9b)

Well, I drizzled it into the hot center of the pile and we will see what happens. I omly had about 3 cups worth accumulated so it should be fine and now I can send that plastic jug on to recycling :~)

Central Texas, TX(Zone 8b)

That should be okay. I've seen driveways soak up more oil than that. I had some oil poured onto my bushes and they didn't die. They line the fence in the backyard. I guess the neighbor poured grease on them. I could tell because they smelled like cooking oil.

Scotia, CA(Zone 9b)

My main concern is that if it didn't break down the plant roots would become coated with it and not be able to absorb water or nutrients. But since I am just adding a tiny amount it really shouldn't matter.

Rose Lodge, OR(Zone 8b)

Zany, I've put EVERYTHING that comes out of my kitchen into the compost & never had a problem with the oils.

Scotia, CA(Zone 9b)

That is good to know!

I scored 8 huge garbage cans full of bagged gras clippings from my gardener friends today so my pile will be heating up again into the 160 degree range and with the browns being wet now it should start the compost well on its way to being usable.

I want to keep the heat going on it as long as I can now that the bin is full and when it cools off and won't reheat above 80 again I'll go ahead and plant my legumes on top to start doing their magic. Once the legumes are covering it I'll leave it to them and the worms until April-June depending on the weather.

(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN(Zone 6b)

Remember, too that a lot of plants contain oils - I doubt that peanuts or soybeans left on the ground or even turned in to the dirt cause many problems - in fact, I know - if you look out at all the soybeans the farmer who planted my back acreage last summer left on the ground.... you get the idea.

Rose Lodge, OR(Zone 8b)

I'm writing an article for DG about compost -- basically, how everyone is too prissy & wrapped up in the details.

So I've been reading this forum a lot.

Moscow, ID(Zone 5a)

ain't no prissy here, and we unwrap all the details...

Central Texas, TX(Zone 8b)

summerkid,

Look forward to reading your article. I know some compost most anything.

This message was edited Dec 12, 2007 10:12 PM

Scotia, CA(Zone 9b)

With oil, it isn't a matter of turning a nose up at the idea but rather, is it good for the soil. I know that many plants produce oil ie: vegetable oil, cornoil/ canolla oil/ olive oil etc. But they are highly processed and not in the same category as the original plant material.

I figure that with the heat of the pile the small amounts I use should not make a difference in the overall quality of my compost. But I don't think I would advise anyone to pour gallons of the stuff onto their heap.

I have a Sheltie so with daily brushings she also has been donating huge quantities of browns to my pile ;~) I think she sheds her weight in fur every day.

Moscow, ID(Zone 5a)

You know, Z, that conjures up quite a mental image of your Sheltie...

Scotia, CA(Zone 9b)

LOL that is why I mentioned shedding fur to differentiate as to what type of browns she is contributing to my compost pile versus her personal piles... which I do not compost. ;~)

Moscow, ID(Zone 5a)

OHHHH! I went a different direction - re: shedding her weight in fur.
I got the cartoon picture of a very furless-nekkid pup, that could grow out her coat in 24 hrs.
Sort of a "Tressy-doll" type; assuming you might be near my age bracket & actually remember these dolls.

Scotia, CA(Zone 9b)

Well, I do remember them... I bought one for my daughter ;~)

But Pyxle doesn't ever seem to have more or less hair. she just seems to grow it and lose it at the same time so she is always fluffy and shedding... But that fur does seem to break down fairly fast in the compost pile and she enjoys her daily brushing time so I guess it all works out.

(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN(Zone 6b)

My kitten's name is Pixel!

Scotia, CA(Zone 9b)

LOL but one of us spelled it wrong...

(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN(Zone 6b)

It's all good!

Did you get it from the Heinlein book?

Scotia, CA(Zone 9b)

I got it from a book on archaic words and expressions. It is an old word for pixie or mischievous and playful imp. So really we both spelled it right since it is two totally different words that sound the same.

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