Iron Defficient Soil

Does adding steel and iron scraps like screws, nails, nuts, bolts, etc... improve the iron levels in soil? Let's see MJ....

Let's see MJ? Sorry, I don't get it....

I don't think that's going to help you out too much - it breaks down in pretty specific areas instead of dispersing into the soil. I have to wonder if you soaked them in water and then used the water... but you also really want to be careful with it - a lot of stuff is balanced pretty carefully in the soil additives in terms of pH, chelating agents, blah blah blah...

Are you having problems with a specific plant due to low iron?

copied this.
Iron EDDHA has long been regarded as the preferred iron (Fe) chelate for application to calcareous soils. Two newer products, Fe-EDDHSA and Fe-glucoheptonate, have been proposed as chelates for alkaline soils. The objective of this study was to compare the residual solubilities of twelve Fe products when incubated with two calcareous soils. Iron, as ferrous sulfate, Fe-lignosulfonate (2 products), Fe-gluconate, Fe-glucoheptonate (3 products), Fe-EDTA, Fe-DTPA, Fe-EDDHA (2 products), and Fe-EDDHSA were incubated with two soils from 1 day to 8 weeks. Remaining Fe in the soil solution was determined after extraction with 0.01 M CaCl2. Negligible Fe from ferrous sulfate or Fe-lignosulfonate remained in solution after 1 day of incubation. Iron from Fe-gluconate or Fe-glucoheptonate was largely precipitated by 1 week of incubation. Low, but measurable, levels of Fe from Fe-EDTA remained in solution for 4-8 weeks, depending on the soil. Only Fe-DTPA, Fe-EDDHA, and Fe-EDDHSA kept a significant amount of the applied Fe in solution for the duration of the experiment. It was concluded that Fe-EDDHSA should be an effective Fe fertilizer for alkaline soils, but Fe-glucoheptonate is probably best used for foliar, instead of soil application.

Hope it helps

Broncobuster,

I'm not sure if you are teasing or serious, but I do have a very real interest in this topic. I found out this summer when I planted nandina that my soil is iron deficit - at least in some areas. As far as I understand, the iron is there in the soil, but it is tied up and unusuable to the plants. I believe that the key is to reduce the soil's Ph over time. This is accomplished through lost of organic materials - although I'm not sure if there is a preferred material to use.

In the meantime, I have been applying garden Iron (espoma brand), as well as a liquid iron when I see the leaves begin to yellow again. One of the problems that I have is that I don't have a schedule to use of when to apply these additives or how much. I'm pretty much winging it, and hoping that nothing is hurt in the process.

I know that pine straw would be beneficial, but I don't think that is an option in my region. When I lived in Savannah, that was the common mulch. Of course then, I had enough pine trees that I didn't need to buy mulch.

This is a serious question. I realize that it won't have an immediate effect, but I'm talking about the long run. I'm pretty sure that, as the steel and iron peices rust and breakdown, iron is added to the soil. I'm asking this question because someonelse suggested it. (MJ)

Even if you did bury metal in your soil, I'm not sure that the iron would be available to the plants. Perhaps someone else could explain it properly, but I know it has to do with the soils acidity.

Thanks Penne, but I'm not talking about burying the scraps, just throwing them in the beds. Have you ever put a cast iron skillet or pot outside with water in it? The next day it is rusted and when you pour the water out, rust goes with it. Well, the rust is a product of oxygen and iron combining, so the rusty water must have iron in it.

I don't think its a question of just adding iron, nails, etc. or even iron-water. The iron has to be chelated to make it available to the plants.

I found this. http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/tips/1998033432008457.html

try it and see if you have less iron chlorosis.

It's an interesting theory. I'm still leary, but good luck.

Let us know how it does for you!

BTW, the FAQ's on Garden web were oftentimes written by regular people (like me!). IOWs, it might be absolutely correct, just don't take it as gospel (like anything else on the web, I guess!!!).

If you have mineral deficiencies in your soil, its a good idea to get a soil test through your county extension office and follow their recommendation for correcting the deficiencies.

It is likely that if the soil is deficient in iron, it has other deficiencies as well, since iron is a "facilitator" of other nutrients.

This message was edited Aug 23, 2007 7:40 AM

Your right, Gloria! My soil also lacks sulphur, potassium and nitrogen.

This is some information from the University of Missouri on iron managment in the soil. I am going to paste some of the information on this thread, but also include a hyperlink to the website, if you would like to get the total article.

Importance of Iron in Missouri

Low iron content in the soil is rarely the cause of iron deficiency in most plants because iron is normally found in abundant quantities in most soils. Low iron availability or mobility due to environmental and soil conditions are most often the cause of iron deficiency problems in plants grown in arid regions. Iron availability is controlled by soil pH. Iron is readily available in acidic soil solutions but is tied up in basic soils. Iron is least soluble at pH of between 7.4 and 8.5 (figure 2), but these are rare in Missouri .

Factors Affecting Iron Availability

Soil pH

In acidic soils iron is easily dissolved into the soil solution, which the plant can then use, while it is relatively insoluble in basic soil solutions. The availability of iron in the soil can be decreased up to 1000 fold for each unit increase in pH.

Bicarbonate and excessive water

High concentrations of carbonate, bicarbonate, and phosphates in the soil and irrigation water may also lower the availability of iron because low solubility salts are formed.

CaCo3 + CO2 + H2O → Ca2+ + 2HCO3+

Besides reducing iron solubility, bicarbonate ions also reduce the mobility of iron in the plants vascular tissue. Plant tissue analysis may indicate there is sufficient iron in the stems and petioles, but the lack of mobility of iron in the presence of bicarbonate will cause deficiency to occur in the leaves.

Bicarbonate and Poor Aeration

Bicarbonate concentration in the soil is increased by high concentration of CO2 in the soil. Soil CO2 is a byproduct of respiration by soil microbes and plant roots. Soils that are saturated or poorly aerated, however, tend to increase levels of CO2. Calcareous soils with high pH, therefore, are extremely susceptible to iron deficiency when they are saturated or poorly aerated.

Recommendations for Iron Management

Avoiding Iron Chlorosis

Applying iron fertilizers may not fix the problem. The underlying reason for the chlorosis must be identified to keep it from reoccurring.

Irrigation water

A common cause of iron chlorosis occurs due to overwatering or poorly aeration.

Plant Selection

Some plants are more susceptible to iron chlorosis than others and their use should be limited with high water and on poorly drained locations.

Mulching

Susceptible plants in arid regions should be mulched to keep soil temperatures cooler.

Excessive fertilizers

Applying excessive phosphorous fertilizers can contribute to iron chlorosis. A soil test should be used to determine the phosphorus needs of a plant
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This is what I was trying to explain in my clumsy way. It may not be that there isn't enough iron in the soil, but that the iron there isn't available to your plants. When you did you soil test, did they also give you a Ph? If it is low, and you can increase it, you will be able to increase the iron availability.

http://web.missouri.edu/~umcsnrsoilwww/webpub05/fe1_2004.htm

This is an article written by a Texas extension agent

http://bexar-tx.tamu.edu/HomeHort/F1Column/2003Articles/MAY25.htm

This is an article from a Texas A & M plant pathologist
http://www.theeagle.com/homegarden/080902horne.htm

None of these article suggest adding metal to your garden. All of them agree that the garden would probably benefit by reducing the Ph so that the current iron become available. Whatever you do decide to do, I hope that it works.

Thanks Pennefeather! That is great information! From what I understand, the iron has to bond with organic material in order to be available for plants. So if I continue with my fertilizing (horse manure and compost) regimen along with the addition of iron(scrap), sulphur, nitrogen(chicken manure), and potassium(bananna peels), I should be creating a more acidic and healthier soil. Chelated means bonded. Chelated iron is just iron that's already bonded with organic material. The reason that iron in alkaline soil is not available is because there's not alot of organic material for it to bond with. Does that sound right or am I crazy?

Sounds good to me... I do know that from a nutritional standpoint, potatoes have a lot more potassium than 'nanners ....

pennefeather: A+ for research! Thanks. Most things in soil chemistry, as well as human nutrition are complex and interconnected.

I bought this house in KY 5 months back, had a 20'x26' garden area and as I was tilling it I through the rocks aside and also found many pieces of iron and through them aside also. Then got to thinking maybe they were there for a reason.
When I had the soil tested it showed a little low in nitrogen, everything OK for Vegs.
I asked about the pieces of iron and was told many 'old timers' did through iron into the soil so I think I'll through it back this fall. Better than the land fill. :)

Rentman, so the soil was not iron defficient?

http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/710228/

Bronc, I don't know if this will help any but a lot of information came out of it.

That'll keep me busy for a while, Lou. Thanks

you're welcome

Hey Broncbuster,

You should check out greensand, which we are lucky to have easy access to here.

http://www.dirtdoctor.com/view_question.php?id=488

David