Pruning Rose of Sharon

Help! A few of my ROS are cracking at the trunk where new limbs have grown(have never pruned them before) I need to cut off 1-3" diameter limbs at base. Is it OK to do this in summer? or should I wait til winter???? Since they have never been pruned before, what should I do to start? Open center?, central leader?, vase?, Thanks for your advice!

Some may not agree but I prune my trees in the spring, summer and fall. I have the main trunk come up a couple of feet and then prune on to form a vase shape tree. Others may do it differently. I prune gently 3 different times to aquire the shape I want without shocking the tree too much.
I have some that grew 10 feet tall. If they were mine I would prune off the bottom limbs at least two feet off the ground. and shape the others some. Then in the fall I would prune again and shape some more. Now I know alot of gardeners won't agree with this but this is how I do it.
Good luck!!!

jcf,I'm wondering too if the vase shape will eventually make mine(young) top heavy??? It's very windy here on the prairie,any thoughts?? Thank You,Sis'

I do not have an answer, but rather, a question about rose of sharon bushes. I have two mature shrubs, both over six feet tall. Question is, how do I go about transplanting them safely? My concern is not damaging the rootball when I'm digging them up. Any info is much appreciated!! Thanks!!

Hi carlakimberlin and welcome to Dave's Garden'I'm new to this site but not to gardening. I wouldn't move them now, I'd wait until they go dormant. You probably should get some help as you might need them. Depends how strong you are I guess and how quickly you need to work getting them moved'I move my plants for my area(5also)after all leaves are off and the soil temp is barely above freezing,workable,I'm saying' I always give the plant a good soaking first,then dig a safe distance, away from the plant(center).Before digging,I wrap my shrubs with old sheets and secure with bunge cords,easier to work around the plant. You'll have to be the judge of the distance but just guessing I'd not get closer to the roots, than maybe 2or3ft. Also have a tarp ready to place the shrub onto so you can just drag instead of lift.But the first thing I would do is have the new site ready. Some amend the soil,others don't your choice' If you till the new site,adding some rotted, not hot, manure couldn't hurt. Place the shrub in the hole the same height(in the soil) as it was previously.This is where some lifting may be needed to get the proper depth/width. You can put your shovel across the new hole(after the plant is set in)and adjust the height.Make sure the new hole is also wide enough as to prevent roots growing in a circle and strangling itself and dying' When you have it "set" start filling over the roots and lightly tamping to prevent air pockets in the roots' Slowly, water in and watch for air bubbles,you don't want any' When finished,mulch heavily to prevent ground heaving and future weeds' Then when new growth shows, start on your feeding program' Hope this helps and this is the way I do it,no 2 gardeners are the same,like good cooks,LOL''Good Luck' Sis'

P.S.forgive me carlakimberlin,tired from mowing,of course remove the bunge cords and whatever you wrapped the plant in when you're finished,LOL''Sis'

I dug some R of S at my brother's and brought them 2 1/2 hrs to my house in water in July. Some of them lost their leaves but have grown new ones and some are blooming now. They are really pretty hardy.

I bet they're pretty now too Deanne' I discovered my flower buds, on Minerva were getting small holes and it was ants boring in them. Also found 2 small green worms,not fuzzy,inside the open flowers,killed them'I sprayed the whole tree with insecticidal soap early, yesterday in the morning, before it got hot' Was 106 yesterday and again today too'My flowers are purple with red eyes,what are yours??