Irrigation & Soil Conditions

Burlingame, CA(Zone 9a)

I have a question about watering & soil conditions that I hope you all can help with. I hope that I can explain myself properly and it doesn't come out garbled.

I live in the San Francisco Bay Area where we have a wet season and a dry season. No rain from May to November. I have sandy/clay soil. I have an automatic irrigation system with spray heads attached, that waters the grass and all the garden beds. One of the gardens is in baking sun all day and I had roses, canna's and elephant ears growing in it. All heavy water users. I had heavily amended the soil with compost prior to planting and mulched with at least 3 inches of bark. I irrigated once a week for around 15 minutes and then occasionally let the hose run while I was weeding etc. The elephant ears - the most delicate plant of the lot and more suited to warm shade - stood up to the heat and the sun and the other plants thrived. The soil under the bark was damp and loaded with worms and starting to get into great condition - all nice and soft and dark and crumbly.

The spray irrigation works great on the grass areas and is good for washing the dust off the plants in the gardens, but I hate over-spray and water wastage. Trying to avoid both of those is quite difficult so at the beginning of this year I had my DH replace the spray heads in the garden beds with drip irrigation and I relocated the canna's & EE's. This weekend I was adding other plants to this particular bed and found that the soil is dry, full of clods, & has hardly any worms & loads of ants. It was very difficult to work with.

So my question/concern is that drip irrigation is not the best choice for soil health. Does the soil need more water than it is getting to maintain it's condition and all the organisms that live in it? Should I be (yikes) replacing the drip back to spray irrigation? Is drip a better choice for say, vege gardens but not perennial or shrub gardens?

I would welcome any and all comments. TIA.

Alpine, TX(Zone 7b)

Hi wgnkiwi,

As an ex-Redwood City gardener, transplanted to West Texas, I have learned that drip irrigation is not the best method in all cases. I have 2 food gardens, both with sandy loam soil (or maybe loamy sand). One has beds enclosed by 2/8's in which I grow veggies and herbs; it has been going for 3-4 years, so the soil is getting pretty good. After many applications of compost it has that chocolate cake texture and holds water fairly well. Drip works fine here, with the lines 10" apart, emitters every foot. I found that having the lines 13 or so inches apart (3 to a 40" wide bed) was leaving dry areas.

In the "orchard" garden I used to have a circle of drip line around the small trees, and for at least 2 years, I realized later, the poor trees were starving for water. They did not look great and were being attacked excessively by insects. The soil in this garden, a much larger area, still does not have sufficient humus and drains very fast. This year I dug out deeper, wider basins around the trees and after adding compost, I mulched with a thicker layer of alfalfa hay and pulled weeds. I removed the drip lines and just water the basins well by the hose every so often. Result: the trees are lush and thriving - what a difference!














Burlingame, CA(Zone 9a)

hey kabocha, Redwood City huh? Im always surprised by how much warmer it is down there when the distance between Burlingame and RC is only a few miles. My DH and I tried to buy a lovely house there but got shut out in a bidding war. Crazy!

My vege garden has lovely texture after only two years of amending, although I started it by double digging everything. This last winter I covered the whole thing with clear plastic in a bid to stop the rain from washing it all away. It worked pretty well.

What has surprised me is it looks like compost has never been added to the other gardens. Where did it go? At this point I'm thinking of removing all of the bark mulch and mulching with compost & lawn clippings which is how I used to garden.

Sterling, VA(Zone 6b)

I really think there are some interesting ideas here...

I have seen a huge improvement in areas where I have put down a thick layer of mulch and even more improvement in areas where I have put down newspaper and a layer of mulch. I am talking about just shredded wood mulch. Maybe one key to improving soil is to create the moist conditions that worms and other creatures like so they can improve the soil for you.

- Brent

Chevy Chase, MD(Zone 7a)

Brent: When you say you put down newspaper, do you mean shredded newspaper? Or do you just plop sections of the paper in place?

Sterling, VA(Zone 6b)

Just sheets of newspaper. I was mulching a large empty bed in my backyard (most of it was filled with bamboo at one point). Some areas had weeds or grass growing. In those areas I put down sheets of newspaper under the mulch to smother the weeds, but I did not put down newspaper in the cleared area. I noticed more of an improvement in the areas that got newspaper but I don't know if that was because:

1) The newspaper attracted worms which improved the soil.
2) The newspaper kept the soil moisture up which improved the soil.
3) The areas that got newspaper had weeds which broke down and added organic matter to the soil.
4) The areas that got newspaper had better soil to begin with because not as much soil was removed when digging the bamboo.

- Brent

Chevy Chase, MD(Zone 7a)

I have a number of areas that are currently covered with weeds that I hope to cultivate this season. Maybe I'll try that. I thought the newspaper would not let enough rain through. I don't want to put mulch on top, though.

Berkeley, CA(Zone 9a)

I'm almost in your area. My garden was re-done a couple of years ago with a drip system in the veggie tiers and emitters in the flower garden tiers. If I don't cut through connections in the fall or spring when tilling the veggie plots, things seem to work pretty well. As plants grow through the flower parts, I find the emitters don't get to all sections. I may ask the people who installed if taller emitters will perform better for coverage. My soil is VERY clay (yes, I've been told this is better than sandy) and I do what I can to improve it. I can tell you I've lived in this house for 32 years and the garden area will take another 32 to get it where I want it. As all of my yard is on a slope and sectioned off with concrete curves, when I decide to amend a section really well, it involves digging what's there, amending and replanting. This is not all bad as I feel my garden is always reinventing itself.
Anyway, wgnkiwi, to find your solution, you might poke your fingers in your soil in lots of different locations to see what remains damp after several days or what dries out quickly. My system is on 6 different stations do I can adjust each one. Maybe we'll meet at the No. CA. roundup.

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