Is this the mile-a-minute vine?
mile-a-minute weed
Equilibrium
Jun 24, 2007
Sadly, that's what it looks like you have to me-
http://www.invasivespeciesinfo.gov/plants/mileminute.shtml
So that is what I suddenly started getting last summer! It must have hitched a ride with the boulders used to rip-rap my bank. Last year it was just near the water, this year it is showing up elsewhere. I've been pulling it out whenever I see it. So how do I get rid of it before it chokes out everything?
Dang, this stuff is coming up from the lake and creeping charlie is coming out of the woods......and me trying to fight them both off in the middle.
Equilibrium
Jun 24, 2007
This is one I haven't had to destroy yet. I'm sure I'll be graced with this sooner or later but it hasn't happened yet. Lemme go try to look up what does it in.
Equilibrium
Jun 24, 2007
Hey Marie, I haven't seen any of this out our way yet. You might want to really try to locate all the offspring of your hitch hikers real fast. Here's a little "Weed of the Week" write up on what you've got and take a good look at the photo of the plant blanketing a natural area. I've seen other photos of this plant behaving like Kudzu but haven't seen it in person because it hasn't gotten a foothold by us yet-
http://na.fs.fed.us/fhp/invasive_plants/weeds/mile-a-minute_weed.pdf
Here are notable excerpts from this site-
http://www.invasive.org/eastern/biocontrol/26MileAMinute.html
Quoting:
Mile-a-minute weed, Polygonum perfoliatum L., is an annual or perennial vine of Asian origin that infests nurseries, orchards, openings in forested areas, roadsides, and drainage ditches in the eastern United States. In natural areas, the plant displaces native vegetation.
Quoting:
Plant height varies depending on where it grows. In open areas mile-a-minute weed forms a dense, tangled mat that covers everything including small trees and shrubs. Along forest edges, plants climb on trees and can reach 8 m in height.
Quoting:
This sums up the big problem, there's a seed bank to this plant just like Garlic Mustard. This weed is a particular threat to forest regeneration (Stanosz and Jackson, 1991). In commercial forest areas where mile-a-minute weed has affected regeneration, costs ranging from about $60 to 500/ha are incurred for site preparation, weed management (e.g., herbicides, burning), and labor to replant seedlings (Charles Brown, pers. comm.). Unfortunately, in both commercial and natural regeneration areas, this weed is difficult to control with a single herbicide application due to prolonged persistence of seeds in the soil. Seeds are able to survive in the soil and germinate after as long as four years (Johnson, 1996; McCormic, pers. comm.). Also, seeds can germinate over a wide temperature range (4.4 to 20°C) after at least nine weeks of cold-wet stratification at 2°C (McCormick and Johnson, 1997). Plants growing along forest edges near regeneration areas are potential sources of seed (McCormick and Johnson, 1997).
They have identified some natural enemies (from China where this plant occurs naturally) however in reading the trials, it would appear that the introduction of the natural enemies (Asian anthropods) to our continent to control Mile-A-Minute might not be a great idea. Basically; the larvae and adult weevils, borers, beetles, and moths identified as keeping this plant in "check" over in Asia don't exactly have discriminating tastes. When they trialed them over here, the Asian anthropods didn't stick to the Mile-A-Minute and expanded their "tastes" to include our native plants. Not good in that these Chinese anthropods weren't target specific.
They have identified 20 fungal isolates from Asia. Two look promising as a possible biological control because they "caused systemic symptoms or whole plant mortality when evaluated using the toothpick-insertion test" but it's going to be a very long time, if ever, before anything like that is available to us and that would probably be contingent upon these fungal isolates being target specific and there are probably other factors that would have to be taken into consideration too because nobody wants a "fix" to be more damaging to the environment than the underlying problem. Toothpicks were used to prick the Mile-A-Minute plants to infect them. I can't see the average homeowner walking around pricking individual plants with infected toothpicks but who knows... people are becoming more aware of the serious impact these types of plants have and I've run into people who I never thought in a million years would care and they did and got out there and did what they could to beat back destructive plants using extremely labor intensive methods.
My take on this plant is that the distinctive shape of the leaf is going to make it very easy for the average person to identify, this is a good thing. Once it is identified and once people understand that they should try their best to get rid of this plant before it sets seed, I think we'll be ok. I'd hand pull anything you can get your hands on and treat this plant just like Garlic Mustard. I stick red surveying flags in areas where I have hand pulled Garlic Mustard so that I know to go back there to check for offspring from the seed bank. If you have a plant that has really gotten a foothold, you can give it the "glove of death" with RoundUp or Rodeo or AquaMaster. I prefer Rodeo or AquaMaster because those chemicals aren't as damaging to frogs, salamanders, etc. It is a little bit more expensive but it's worth it. All you do is put on a rubber glove then put a fabric glove over the top of that glove then dip your fingers in your herbicide then "feel up" the plant. This helps keeps the chemical on the plant you want to destroy as opposed to spraying which could kill the target plant as well as the non-target plants that the Mile-A-Minute is growing up and over.
Please take into consideration that I have never had to control or manage Mile-A-Minute. I know it's coming our way so I suppose I'll get first hand experience sooner or later but I don't have any now. Everything above is from web sites that are out there to help people and I just went and sort of condensed it for you. It might be best to contact people who garden in states where they are inundated to see what they are doing about this plant. Pulling info off line is a great start but it's no substitute for actual experience.
One thing I did pick up on is that you mentioned this coming to you as a "hitch hiker". This is exactly why I very rarely participate in plant trades with people from out of my area and if I do, I bareroot their plant and hose down the roots over my kitchen sink real well to remove all soil. The soil is tossed in my garbage and the water goes down my drain. It's not a perfect system but it's better than doing nothing. I really hate getting surprises.
Candy:
I hope you don't have the pestilence known as Chinese Tear Thumb (Persicaria perfoliata, formerly Polygonatum perfoliatum).
Here's a description lifted from one of the websites helpfully provided above (http://www.agr.state.nc.us/plantind/plant/entomol/alert.htm#MAM):
Quoting:
This prickly, annual, climbing vine is listed as a Class A Noxious Weed under our State Noxious Weed Regulations. Because of its rapid, aggressive, scrambling growth, Mile-a-Minute represents a serious threat to nurseries, Christmas tree plantations, reforestation sites, and rights-of-way. The common name "Mile-a-Minute" is testimony to its rapid growth, while "Tearthumb" derives from the recurved barbs found on the stems, petioles, and leaf veins.
I didn't see any barbs on the picture you provided; did you notice any when you collected the specimen you photographed?
The other ID feature that seems missing in your picture: this noxious exotic invasive has leaves that are peltate. This means the leaf petiole attaches to the leaf away from the margin. Your specimen doesn't appear to have peltate leaves. Maybe you could provide another picture? The NC website shows this very well in an image they provide.
Finally: that is sound advice to beware of "hitchhikers", and not just on the highway. The following is also lifted from the same NC website:
Quoting:
The two plants found on 6/12 were growing in pots with Hosta plants in two small shade houses. This is the first reported occurrence of Mile-a-Minute in North Carolina. A native of Asia, the weed was first reported in the eastern United States before 1950, appearing at a nursery in York County, Pennsylvania.
I hope you find that your weedy vine is simply one of the Convolvulaceae, which are bad enough, and may the dreaded Chinese Tear Thumb never darken your landscape.
Equilibrium
Jun 24, 2007
Say Marie, why don't you post some photos. You could very well have a Bindweed. Here's one I've got by me-
http://www.illinoiswildflowers.info/weeds/plants/bl_bindweed.htm
Please note that the appropriate name for the above plant is Polygonum convolvulus. Fallopia convolvulus is synonymous.
Here's another one I've got by me and there are some really great photos at this site-
http://www.missouriplants.com/Whitealt/Convolvulus_arvensis_page.html
Here's a sort of look-alike that I don't have-
http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=CASES
All of these plants are toughies.
I'll try to remember to take some pics when I get home from work this afternoon. The vine is actually quite pretty and delicate, but does seem to get a strangle hold on it's neighbors. I'm trying to remember, but I think it may have had a small orange flower last year. Of course, I could be completely off base. There are all sorts of weeds/flowers growing up through the boulders.
The saga continues.........
Equilibrium
Jun 24, 2007
Oh bummer, I think you just described Ipomoea coccinea. Check out an image of that and see what you think.
Here is what mine looks like. I think that it's the same as above. It pulls up very easily. Is that all I need to do to get rid of it? I really don't want to use chemicals on the lake shoreline. It certainly looks healthy doesn't it?
Well, I read all these entries, went to the sites you all listed and went back outside and inspected more of the vine. I don't believe I have mile-a-minute, but rather a form of bindweed. There is no areola, there are no sticky parts, and the mature leaves look more like bindweed. Thanks everyone.
I think that you're right. It does seem like a bindweed. So.....what's the best way to get rid of it?
Well, the other kind of bindweed I have, field bindweed, has a root like a rubber band and breaks underground. The underground pieces all make new plants so pulling just makes it look better for a while. That one I consider hopeless. This weed has an insignificant root system by comparison so I'm just going to pull up what I see and hope for the best.
Equilibrium
Jun 25, 2007
Try VineX, works like a charm-
http://www.vine-x.com/
Or try regular strength BrushBGon-
http://davesgarden.com/forums/p.php?pid=3469730
I've tried VineX and BrushBGone for poison ivy. It's the only reason I'll use anything like that. It actually hasn't been that effective even though that's what they are supposed to target. I'm afraid these chemicals would be impractical for the bindweed.
Equilibrium
Jun 25, 2007
I've used VineX on Bindweed and it worked. I've used VineX on other woodies and it worked. I will admit to using a potato peeler to expose some of the cambium layer. I've also used regular strength BrushBGon on the leaves and it worked. There are many plants out there that are becoming resistant to chemicals because of general overuse, do you think this may be what has happened to you? Poison Ivy I pull off of the host plant and lay on a tarp and spray with regular old RoundUp. I wait about a week or so and hit it again if it doesn't look as if it is dying. I do the same thing with many grape vines. From there I have chopped down the vine and painted the stump. I think I might have used Garlon 4. I can't remember now because I haven't had any large PIs lately.
My VineX spent the winter in an unheated garage. Will it still work after it has been frozen solid for several months, or should I replace it?
Equilibrium
Jun 26, 2007
Really good question. I'd probably buy a new bottle. I don't know what to think. Sometimes when products freeze they lose their effectiveness, sometimes they don't. I guess if you wanted to try it, shake the bottle really well.
Equilibrium
Jun 26, 2007
Say, what about contacting the manufacturer and asking them? There's probably an eight hundred number on the bottle.
Now why didn't I think of that? I will call the company.
Equilibrium
Jun 26, 2007
I dunno. Probably the same reason why I didn't think of it when I first replied to you. I think it's referred to as missing the obvious.
Equilibrium
Jun 26, 2007
For those who do have Mile-a-Minute, I just received a little blurb on some success which is quoted below-
Quoting:
I have the accompanying excel file that I can e-mail to anyone who is interested. Just send me a d-mail with your e-mail address and I will forward the excel file with all of the details to you. It was very interesting.
Three of us used garden rakes followed by hand pulling in Little Paint Branch Park, Beltsville MD on June 22, 2007 and removed 20% of the massive 25’ by 100’ patch of Mile-Minute in an open area in 2 hours.
For example, the three volunteers in 15 minutes used the rakes very gently to remove about 80% of the Mile-a-Minute in a 20’ x 20’ patch about 50% invasive vine cover over 50% native cover including sensitive fern, asters, sycamore and sweet gum seedlings and Virginia creeper. The herbaceous natives were not damaged and it was then easy enough to hand pull the remainder in 30 minutes. When we tried to pull very hard at another spot, native plants, including a virgin creeper, were damaged. Hand pulling alone would have been seen as hopeless and herbicides would have damaged the natives. Bio-control is having mixed success according to reports. Cheers.
Marc XXXXX
Laura XXXXXX
Mike XXXXX
Equil,
The problem with the bindweed is that its everywhere, literally. It's not a woody vine. As for the poison ivy, I will pull new plants. I cover myself with plastic bags and then bag the stuff and throw it in the garbage. As for the larger vines I would never pull them down or scrape the bark as I'm too afraid of the consequences. I thought VineX would allow me to paint the bottom section and kill off a mature vine. It didn't work. For the mile-a-minute, it may not have the same root structure as our field bindweed. The new vine I found in the back doesn't either and I think pulling it will be an effective way to keep it out. I have a wooded area behind me, but I don't usually go back there. It's posted and infested with poison ivy, which is why I get so much of it I guess.
Equilibrium
Jun 26, 2007
One more e-mail just sent to me on Mile-a-Minute for anyone interested-
Quoting:
Subject: Re: Mile-A-Minute, Polygonum perfoliatum
I've been doing a great deal of tearthumb removal this year, and I'd like to share some observations.
The tool I used is a lightweight collapsible hoe, with three tines opposite the hoe blade. These tines worked well for grasping the vines with a twirling action, like spaghetti on a fork. The barbs on the vines make a mass of vine self-adhesive.
I have attempted to get the root with each removal. The key to that is to pull on the vine slowly, so that the root hairs release from the soil before the vine stem parts. There is a characteristic ripping feel transmitted through either the hands or the tool if the root comes out, as contrasted with a popping sensation if the stem breaks. Don't try to remove so many stems at a pull that the vines part before the roots pull. If the vines are well-entwined in shrubs or firm stems, a slow sweeping motion with the tool near the ground will uproot the vines before the barbs let go of their substrates.
I began removal in May, and continued last week (June 21-23). The plants in May were small and the roots came out readily, but the small size made them harder to spot and reach. I simply hoed many smaller plants. By June 9, vines in sunny locations were covering shrubs and climbing tree stems, and were going to seed. The roots were still loose and small enough to come up easily. In large masses, I would gather an armful. The stems would diverge to many root locations. I would then use a tool or free hand to pull roots one small area at a time, until the entire mass was uprooted.
By June 16 I began seeing rare seed pods turning blue. The roots were becoming firmer and harder to uproot before the stem broke. By June 23, seeds in green pods which I opened were blue. I don't know if this indicates an ability to germinate. The roots were firmer yet, and I had a greater percentage of stem breakage versus uprooting. Tree seedlings and small shrubs were being bent to the ground under the vines.
My overall strategy was to attempt 100% removal in hard-to-access spots and edges of the infestation. In easy-to-access spots, I concentrated on speed, removing stems which were going to seed.
I examined areas which were infested last year. Those areas which we worked on in July had relatively few vines. The areas we worked on after seed set had many young vines this year. We used weed-whackers last year to cut the vines near the ground in some heavy infestations. Those spots did not show evidence of heavy regrowth from the roots -- the wall of dead vines was not bridged by regrowth, although new vines from this year were climbing the old dead vines from last year. I conclude that there is a large advantage to removing old vines, since new growth uses these for ladders. Winter removal of dead vines is a good idea.
Vines which were removed last year and which bore blue seeds were bagged on the spot and left to compost in situ, so as not to spread seeds. I dumped several of those bags out this Spring, and saw little germination from the piles, so I conclude that this treatment killed most of the seeds.
Germination appears to be continuous through the season. Areas which were absolutely cleared of vines June 9 had vines growing June 23. It will be necessary to perform periodic removal at a site until first frost, I believe, until the seed bank is exhausted.
In this process, I broke some pokeweed and raspberry stems, uprooted a few small tree seedlings, and broke several black cohosh flower stalks, but overall there was very little damage to the native plants. Bedstraw vines tended to be pulled along with the tearthumb.
I observed growing ends of a minority of tearthumb vines which had holes in the leaves, and observed one Japanese beetle chewing on a tearthumb vine.
I would estimate that we removed 90% of tearthumb from several thousand square feet in about 80 hours field work.
Areas which received early effort last year were dramatically less dense in tearthumb this year than areas which received quick, late attention.
Best regards,
Mike XXXXX
We can exhaust the seedbank, it's just going to take time and unfortuately sweat labor.
Equilibrium
Jun 26, 2007
Oops, didn't realize you were posting. Black Bindweed is definitely a woody vine. Both Convolvulus sepium and C. arvensis are woody vines also but I suspect you are running into less mature plants. All are beasts, that's for sure. I'm not going to tell you it was easy getting it because it wasn't but I do get it. I buy stamp licker bottles from Office Max or Office Depot and I fill them with whatever. I gently pull the Field Bindweed vine toward me while sitting on the ground. I then dab the undersides of the leaves. Time consuming, yes. The VineX really does work on the more developed vines.
One comment- when your air temps are going to be above 80ish, this is not a good time to apply your chemical because the plants begin to shut down to conserve energy. Too cold and they go dormant. Many people don't realize the timing of a chemical is critical. Best to apply it when the weather forecast states day time temps are going to be above 60 but below 82/84 for an entire week. Chemicals applied out of this range are generally ineffective. You can call the manufacturer for more detailed information about application of chemical and air temps.
This is going to sound weird but my girlfriend has this lousy Field Bindweed too. When we sit around and talk about once a week, we have dabbed her Bindweed. When she comes to my house, we sometimes gab and dab. There's not much more you can do other than to try to keep up with it. Please don't get frustrated and overwhelmed. I can send you some photos in d-mail of what I'm working on right now and you would fall over. I'm getting it, bit by bit. Little strokes fell great oaks and all... but, some plants are really becoming resistant to some chemicals and you may have resistant plants. It does happen. You know, if you don't get it all this year, it's not going anywhere so please don't beat yourself up over this plant. It will still be there for you next year, the ones I miss always are.
I'm so glad I came across this thread. I have mile-a-minute vine in my little pond woodland
area. I've been pulling it for a couple of years. Its awful to deal with 'cause of the barbs - they
aren't big but they cause a nasty rash. I have to always remember to get my gloves first. I'm
glad I've been pulling it but obviously need to step up the pace!
And I have concurred (for the most part) bindweed. It was all over a daylily bed when I moved
here 10 yrs ago. I've been pulling and pulling it (digging out as much of the tuber as possible).
Now I only have an occasional new vine. (Actually - I had a number of beds which had been
invaded).
I think the most disheartening thing that's happened here is when I had several big loads of
topsoil brought in after a big construction project. It was loaded with bindweed & thistle
tuber bits. I had a huge area (maybe an acre) to parole. Thankfully I was able to get them
all before they got going! So beware top soil too.
I can't tell you all how happy I am that I stumbled across this discussion. I have bindweed in a number of places, still small so my battle hopefully will be won in the next year or so - with many thanks to you all for the advice and ideas. Now, if I could just get rid of those three Tree of Heaven things by the fence.......
Equilibrium
Dec 06, 2007
Well, join in the fun and merriment over here too then-
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/675733/
Post a Reply to this Thread
More Invasive Plants Threads
-
Is this a wildflower or an invasive weed?
started by iwn48
last post by iwn48Apr 23, 20241Apr 23, 2024