Rose problem

I have a climbing rose bush that my friend planted the year before last and hasn't moved it for me per my request yet. It's in a bad place as it grows like a very happy WEED in a small area. When I try to go into my walk in basement door it grabs me and won't let go!!!! I was wondering if I can keep cutting it when it gets around 5 ft. tall and keep it that height? Would it just bush out? I had an 8 ft. trellis supported by a steel pole last year and it ALL STILL fell over. YIKES!

Jacklynn............gonna ask a dumb question here about this fast growing climber.................Do you stake it??? Tie it down, and direct it where you want it to grow??? You need to do that about every6 or 8 inches....or it will grow nilly willy......

I tried that last year but itstill went wild. I just want it to remain about 4 ft. tall until I can move it in the fall (is fall ok to move it?) This thing got about 15' tall last year and it was all on 2 stalks that didn't branch until it was about 5 ft. tall. Now it's bushier. Can you tell me about getting rid of the beatles on 2 of my other bushes? I used systemic stuff on all of my roses in May. I have some malithyon (sp?) but don't know if I should use that nor do I have the directions to mix it. They got tore off. It's a concentrate. If you can't help me on this one, maybe someone out there in the ROSE world can. Thanks Deann PS good to talk to you. Long time no chat. I've been quite ill. I'm waiting for a lung transoplant now. Crossing my fingers. Oh... BTW I FINALLY became a grandma to something other than a boat, 3 dogs, and a cat. My son and d-i-l in Midland had a boy the end of March. YIPPPPPIEEEEE! The one in Ne. is still dragging his .....uh..... feet! hahaha bigg hugs to you and the rest of my friends in here. I'm not going to preview this.... living on blind faith these days HA!

Jacklynn........Congrats on your new grandbaby......and so sorry to hear of your lung condition.....

What kind of Rose Climber do you have that is growing so wild......whatever it is, I want one....LOL

You may want to try Diatomaceous Earth . It will kill ANY bug that crawls or slithers through it. Diatomaceous earth is a remarkable, all-natural product made from tiny fossilized water plants. Diatomaceous Earth is a naturally occurring siliceous sedimentary mineral compound from microscopic skeletal remains of unicellular algae-like plants called diatoms. These plants have been part of the earth's ecology since prehistoric times. 30 million years ago the diatoms built up into deep, chalky deposits of diatomite. The diatoms are mined and ground up to render a powder that looks and feels like talcum powder to us. It is a mineral based pesticide. DE is approximately 3% magnesium, 33% silicon, 19% calcium, 5% sodium, 2% iron and many other trace minerals such as titanium, boron, manganese, copper and zirconium. Diatomaceous Earth is a natural (not calcined or flux calcined) compound. Diatomaceous Earth is a natural grade diatomite. However, the continual breathing of any dust should he absolutely avoided. With your lung problem, perhaps you need someone to apply this stuff.....use an applicator so you can aim it straight on your target with one of those poof dusters. Or you can just pick the bugs off which is a long tedious job....you may also want to try molasses and water. 1or 2 tablespoons in a quart sprayer or gallon sprayer.

Good Luck!

Deann

Deann.... reread my question..... may I cut the climber cut to about 3'? Help.... it's now about 6' I'd swear it grows a foot a day. going to get my gardening grubs on. How come in mags. the women are wearing white sun dresses and pretty sun hats or pretty outfits. They outfit would be a goner in 1 day. HAHA!

Jacklynn..............Myself, I would not cut a climber....cause that is what you want a climber to do.....climb.......If its getting that unmanageable, then go ahead and cut it back......are the roses that are growing on it small?? It almost sounds like a wild rose.....My climbers are New Dawn, Queen Elizabeth and Don Juan, and they produce the large roses. I do not cut my canes back at all....

Deann

Pruning Climbing Roses

This need present no difficulty, although it is true it seems to puzzle many rose growers of some years' standing. But, as a rule, where they err is not in pruning the plants insufficiently, but in pruning them too much. While systematic and regular pruning is good for the dwarf roses, climbing varieties, as a rule, are all the better for light pruning. The best blooms of a climbing rose are produced by one-year-old growths and, theoretically, the shoots that have bloomed should be cut out as soon as the flowers are over, so that fresh growths may be encouraged to take their places. This is certainly correct advice,, but some sorts are so accommodating that the removal of the older growths may often be dispensed with. They are found among the wichuraiana varieties. These bloom so freely, even from the side shoots that form on the two- and three-year-old stems, that it is a pity to cut them out as long as there is room for them. Of course, preference is always given to the youngest, and it is unwise to crowd the growths together, or in aiming at getting a superabundance of blossom the grower may find that unhappily he obtains none at all worth having. Thus, while liberties may be taken with the Dorothy Perkins class of rose that would lead to disappointment with other kinds, it should not be forgotten that no rose will bloom well if its growths have not a fair share of sunshine and fresh air. Here are the names of a few that may be neglected for two or three years so far as pruning is concerned and be none the worse for it, and in the garden of the inexperienced grower they may conceivably be all the better:-Dorothy Perkins and its first cousin, if not its sister, Lady Gay, Auguste Barbier, Alberic Barbier, Tausendschon, Minnehaha, Hiawatha, White Dorothy Perkins, Jersey Beauty, Elisa Robinson, Gardenia, Lady Godiva, Joseph Billard, and Edmond Proust.
Climbing roses belonging to the multiflora class, of which Crimson Rambler is a type,- are not to be treated so cavalierly in the matter of pruning. There is a great difference in the quality of the blooms produced by one-year-old growths and those of greater age. The shoots of the previous year's growth yield fine flower bunches direct from the main stem, but all other growths bloom only from comparatively weak side shoots, and their flowers are not to be compared with those from younger stems. It is thus not wise to take liberties with Crimson Rambler and its near relations, or they will retaliate by rewarding the gardener in negative fashion in the matter of blossom. Let me name a few of these near relatives so that the reader may be forewarned, and treat them with the respect that they at any rate seem to think is their due. Some of the most familiar are Aglaia, Blush Rambler, Crimson Rambler, Electra, H61&e, Leuchtstern, Mrs. Flight, Philadelphia Rambler, Psyche, Rubin, and Waltham Rambler. " Cut out the old, train in the new " should be the grower's motto in dealing with these.
I must just say a word about the pruning of the Noisette roses, for they need considering separately, and among them are such favorites as William Allen Richardson and Reve d'Or. They are not so adept at producing fresh vigorous shoots from the base of the plant as varieties of the two classes just mentioned, and therefore the older shoots must be treated with greater consideration than usual, since when there are few to replace them we must needs make the best of those we have. As a rule, if, well planted and hard pruned the spring following planting they grow vigorously enough for the first two or three years ; afterwards an opportunity is usually offered to the practiced pruner to give proof of his skill. This he will do by bending down some of the strong growths that have assumed a perpendicular position, by shortening others to within a few inches of the ground, and by seeing that all shoots are spread out as much as possible. Everyone must have noticed that all plants grown against walls (and it is often as wall roses that the Noise varieties are valuable) show most vigor at the top.. If this state of things is allowed to become too pronounced it must ultimately mean that the base of the plant gets bare. Noise roses other than those I have mentioned are found in Celine Forestier, Marechal Niel, Fortune's Yellow, Lamarque (all needing the shelter of a warm wall facing south), Alister Stella Oray, and C. Kuster. So much, then, for pruning the roses that are commonly grown. What I have not made plain I hope the accompanying sketches will do. I am trusting to them to make up for my shortcomings in description. There is really not very much to say in respect of the other classes of roses that are comparatively rarely grown that would interest the average amateur. They nearly all need similar treatment, which is, that you cut out some of the older growths occasionally in late summer when the plants have done flowering, and at the spring pruning, which is practiced in late March, you cut back about half-way each remaining shoot.

http://www.backyardgardener.com/rose/rose4.html

PRUNING CLIMBING ROSES
Climbing roses should be pruned for the same reasons you prune other roses; for plant vigor, for plant shape,
and for abundant flower production. They are pruned a bit differently than other roses, however, and we
hope you find these instructions helpful. As with any other pruning, you should begin with sharp, clean tools
and it is advisable to water the plants the day before you begin pruning to lessen the shock to the plant.
Climbing roses are generally broken down into two categories, once-blooming and repeat-blooming, but
regardless of their type, they bloom mainly on laterals that spring from the canes. In order to encourage
them to put out more flowering laterals, train the canes as horizontally as possible. A trellis, fence, wires or
arbor is ideal for this.
Young climbers (including climbing miniatures) under 2 or 3 years old should be pruned as little as possible, or
not at all. The strong climbing shoots (canes) should be trained to fan out horizontally without allowing
shoots to cross each other. They may be turned and bent into position and held into place onto the fence,
wire or trellis with soft plant ties. The shoots coming from these canes are the flower producers. When
the spent blossoms have been removed, these shoots may also be tied horizontally to the trellis and will in
turn produce more flowering wood.
PRUNING ONCE-BLOOMING CLIMBING ROSES
This type of rose blooms gloriously, but only once a year and they usually bloom on wood from the previous
year. Prune these roses right after flowering is finished. If the plant produced many canes, remove several
of the oldest and weakest canes to the bud union. If only a few canes were produced, cut them back to
several feet above the ground. Train these canes horizontally to your fence, wire or trellis. Winter pruning
of these roses should be kept to only removing suckers coming from below the bud union, twiggy and dead
growth, and leaves and rose hips (seed pods). Untie and rearrange canes into as horizontal a position as
possible. (You can often tell if a climber blooms only once because many of the once-blooming roses have very
flexible canes and small flowers borne in clusters.)
PRUNING REPEAT-BLOOMING CLIMBING ROSES
Climbers that are arranged horizontally on arbors, trellises or fences can bloom for many years on the same
older canes. Eventually, if the roses decline in vigor, allow new canes to grow and replace the old ones.
Repeat-blooming climbers are pruned in the winter or very early spring when the plants are dormant. Remove
all suckers coming from below the bud union. Remove all dead or twiggy growth extending from the bud union.
Cut all the flowering laterals that rise from the horizontal growing canes back to 2 or 3 buds. Remove all
remaining leaves. Untie canes and reposition them on their support into as horizontal a position as possible.
LAST BUT NOT LEAST...FOR ALL ROSES
Once all the pruning is finished in the winter, rake up and dispose of all the dead leaves and ground litter and
spray your newly pruned roses with a dormant spray to eliminate over-wintering pests and promote healthy
plants. For all roses it is important to remove all leaves from the plant and all prunings from around the base
of the plant. This practice will help control the spread of such diseases like powdery mildew, black spot, rust,
and botrytis blight.
http://cetulare.ucdavis.edu/MG/Pruning%20Climbing%20Roses.pdf

Brenda......that is alot of good information, however, I caution that alot of people think thier roses are dorment in late fall, and that is not the case.....By pruning in late fall it will only lead the plant to want to start growing again. If you must prune wait till winter sets in. I myself never prune in late fall or winter.....I wait till spring....

Deann