Does anyone prune?

I am very happy that my dwarf is growing madly, but I'm losing the combo around it. Do folks ever prune them? I know nothing!

Another view.

Yes you could prune it in the fall after leaf fall or any time after that before sping...You could probabbly do so now with no problem on a tree that large and old but waiting is safer... I personally wouldn't..I'd broaden the area around and under it by moving outwards everything else ..yes that front tale on jpeg #1 could go and a few other over reaching branches could be trimmed back . The only reason to trim it would be if you want to see the tree branch and trunk structure as well as the leaf growth and that would be nice you wopuld be shocked how cool it looks under there ...it would then tend to grow more upward.. but that would be a pretty drastic pruning and probably should have been started several years ago...but it could be done save the plantings and give a more well rounded...well bad choice of words ...more total dissectum look and a bit more upright..I have one that self pruned itself like that by the lower branches shaded out cause it is in partial shade unlike your's full sun one ...IT IS REALLY COOL looking at both inner and outer ...but i see no reason to do so unless you want that look.. yours is pretty perfect with a minor trim as is ...David

Boojum, I'd definitely move the underplantings. It looks as if there is plenty of room there. Very pretty combination by the way. Plus that you could do a little division on your hakone grass while you are at it. I can always use more. :-) ANd do any of the iris need dividing? this could be an opportunity! All the underplantings that I see are easily moved.

If you do decide to prune it, you need to use the crotch pruning method. Take a branch that is too long and follow it back to the one that is laying above it. Remove the branch from underneath. The upper branches should hide what you have just done. Start by taking small pieces of the branch, always pruning at a crotch and you will get used to doing it and seeing how it works.

But personally I'd love to see the tree grow into it's own. It's a beauty.

I prefer dissectums that will grow with an irregular and less formal shape as yours has done. Often we see dissectums shaped into mounds or completely rounded out on all sides when they actually have the propensity to grow outwards with each branch having an arm-like effect. I would leave yours growing as is and move the underplantings farther away.

As David suggested, you may want to lift the lower part of the tree just a little or shorten those branches and shoots that reach the ground, but with each years growth I am sure the new growth will continually touch down. You will always want to work from the inside out and upwards through the tree. You can always start with any dead wood which has been traditionally snapped out by hand. Prune cautiously as Doss has said and do not remove the top branches that shaded the inner branches as you open the tree up for sun scald and burn.

Ideally, you can prune in anytime now, but not too late in the summer in your zone as any new growth that pushes as a result of the pruning can fail to properly harden. Otherwise you can prune in late winter when tree is free of leaves and you can better see the branch structure.

My last thought is that since you have not done pruning of this type before, I would encourage light pruning. It seems with dissectums that even light to moderate pruning stimulates dormant buds in places you do not want them. Often new buds emerge in crotch angles and along larger branches, frequently sending out vigorous shoots that are undesirable. By this I mean that the new shoots will run in close proximity to existing branches, emerge at very acute angles, grow in a manner uncharacteristic for the current form, or simply be annoying. A few weeks after you pruning or in the spring following your pruning, keep and eye out for these types of shoots and prune them out or pinch them back early in their life. It might not make sense now, but you will see what I mean.

Cheers!

Thank you all! I think I will prune a few of the long sprawlers and wait for the leaves to drop to see what I've got. I don't care much about the surrounding plants except the grasses, so I will move them further out in view.

I look forward to seeing the results. A nice rock to drape over might look nice, with the grasses in front of the rock.

Laura

I agree be sure to post some jpegs ... your tree is very nice in it's sprawling manner ..I think a little trim will be all it needs...but Ryuzu is correct ..you don't want to encourage fall growth .. especially in your ( my) zone I have found that has been a real problem especially with newly planted trees and one reason i won't fall plant unless both my area is fully domant and the tree comes in fully dormant which is often NOT the case.and impossible to really tell how hardened off ot truly is.David

This message was edited Jun 5, 2007 1:46 PM

Welp. I got some energy and pruned after work today. Turned out there was quite a bit of dead branches underneath.

Another side.

It was raining when I took these so they are not as sharp as I'd have liked. But the rain started after I was done. Perfect timing. At one point I crawled inside the tree-I wished I was gnome sized!

That cut branch was the only thing I wasn't pleased with. But this is the side that gets occasionally chewed by the lawn mower. I figure I can fix it when the leaves are gone or wait and see how it grows next year.

Another shot of the back.

So will the newly exposed green leaves turn red?

Looks like the grasses are fine now after all.

That's a good question. I would assume that they will turn red. They definitely will be red the next season. You'll have to let us know what happens.

It looks really nice, I like to lift the "skirts" up a bit and that's what you've done.

Laura

Thanks, Laura. I'm happy with the lifted "skirts."

I think you did just the right amount and it has a very nice natural but manicured look. It fits in well with the rest of your yard--which is quite beautiful. Try not to run it over too many times with the mower!

I'm not the mower, but he tries to be respectful! So glad you think I did okay. I tried to be mindful of it's natural form. I do love this plant. I know it's very valuable. And it has done so well since I became its caretaker.

boojum, what variety is that little JM? I lost my new Bloodgood this Spring with that crazy late freeze. I need something more hardy I guess.
Teresa

Acer palmatum var. dissectum 'Crimson Queen' I believe.
It's protected a bit because it's growing between the house and barn. My Bloodgood had weird leaves on top this year, too.

I think the pertinent word is young ...No matter how hardy a tree is a first year tree especially a small one ( ??) is suseptable to alot of things the first winter...and you really don't know how much part the freeze played in killing it ..obviously alot but i doubt all. The bloodgood is super hardy and even if it was a fake bloodgood a simple A.P.Atropurpureum it would also be super hardy ..I don't think there is a JM MORE hardy than those two period!!.A 50 year freeze should not give pause to replanting another JM ...but in case it was other factors DO NOT plant in same spot ( possible soil problems) ...try to find a protected place , mulch well, and buy an older more established tree and plant in spring so the root system has a chance tro establish itself .David

Thanks for clarifying what I was thinking, David. Glad to hear about their hardiness!