Container soil dries out and won't rehydrate

Spring, TX(Zone 8b)

Down here in Houston, Texas, we get hot 95-degree days 3 months solid from mid-June through mid-September. I end up having a heck of a time keeping the soil moist in my containers and hanging baskets. Seems the moment I accidentally let it dry out, I can't get the soil to reabsorb any water. The water flows down the inside walls of the pot, around the dry root ball, and out the bottom. Then I have to put the basket in a big tub of water for several hours until the basket stops floating and the soil grudgingly absorbs water again. I understand adding organic material will help retain moisture, but peat seems to be the worst for drying out and not rewetting. Shredded coconut fiber seems to be much better at rewetting, but not perfect. Plus I wonder if a lot of organic material will keep too much moisture in the pot during the cold winters. I'm guessing I need something to improve drainage, someone suggested builder's sand since play sand is too fine. But also something to slow down the water to give the soil a chance to absorb it, or something that would immediately reabsorb water when completely dry, and hold enough moisture to last a full hot day (at least). Is there any quick way to amend the soil without repotting? Though I'm ready to start from scratch if anyone has a foolproof soil recipe. Thanks for your help! - Jane

Rutland , MA(Zone 5b)

i don't know exactly what they are called but you put them inside your container before planting and this stuff absorbs water and then releases it when the plant needs it. i have never used it but people here from hot dry areas have and they say it works.

Washington, MO(Zone 6a)

Polymer crystals. But, check the ingredients. I'm pretty sure that all of the sodium-based crystals have been removed from the market, but I'd still check. =)

My preferred crystals go by the tradename Terra-sorb.

HTH,
Eggs

Fulton, MO

The problem is that peat, and to some extent bark, when dry, is hydrophobic. The adhesive properties of the medium are not great enough to overcome the cohesive properties of the water, and the water runs around and through the medium. The addition of a wetting agent may help. There are commercial wetting agents that you can buy, or you can use a couple of drops of dish soap.

You might consider Turface. Turface is a clay product that absorbs it's weight in water. It absorbs water fast enough to have an application in drying out ball fields. Turface MVP is the variety most people seem to use in large particle container mixes. It will drain very well.

As Bill says, polymer crystals might help.

My baskets seem to dry out fast, no matter what. Good luck.

Deep East Texas, TX(Zone 8a)

If you use the polymer crystals, hydrate them well before using or they will pop a plant out of its' pot.

(Arlene) Southold, NY(Zone 7a)

........and then it looks like you're growing clear Jello blobs! Been there, done that one.

Dublin, CA(Zone 9a)

The other thing you can do is add just a teensy bit of dish soap to your water when you're trying to rehydrate, that will help the water wet the soil.

Indian Harbour Beach, FL(Zone 10a)

Pop over to the soil and composting thread; or the coop thread on polymer crystals -- I believe she is still taking orders and it's a heckuva lot cheaper than the small containers of the stuff for sale in the nurseries.

Spring, TX(Zone 8b)

Thanks for all your help! I may try the dish soap first and check out the other suggestions as I get the time and opportunity. As an afterthought, is it possible to maintain a couple of earthworms or other beneficial life-forms in something as small as a hanging basket to keep the soil loose? (... is earthworm slime a rewetting agent? ha, ha ...) I'm guessing that pots are too small a microenvironment to be able to harbor the biological balance that exists in the ground that might help with moisture movement and aeration. Just a thought.

Bay City, MI(Zone 6a)

It has nothing to do with microbial activity. Stressbaby's advice above was accurate, Both bark and peat become hydrophobic (repel water) when their moisture content drops much below 35%. The key is to not let them dry down so much. His advice to use a surfactant (wetting agent) if you cannot manage to keep the soil hydrated in a timely fashion is also good advice.

BTW - moisture movement (drainage) and aeration are needed in far more abundance in containers than in in situ soils.

Al

Tucson, AZ

Yes, the dish soap in a gallon of water keep watering til completely soaked. For some reason it helps break down the salts and revive the soil. Also, for potting soil use 1/3 peat, 1/3 perilite and 1/3 vermiculite. A perfect mixture for your area.

Washington, MO(Zone 6a)

Note:

Soap, *NOT* detergent. (There *is* a difference).

Columbia, TN(Zone 7b)

Jane,

You might try adding some compost to your soil mix too. That should help with water retention.

MollyD

Northeast, WA(Zone 5a)

You need HOT water to get your peat moss to absorb it. The hotter the better. Then put a cover on it and let it sit there over night.

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