Summer shade, winter sun

Orwell, VT

Okay folks..... put your thinking hats on. I want to find a shade tree that will mature at about 40 feet that has a wide spread and fine leaves...... most likely compound leaves like a locust. The tree will be planted on the south west corner of our house to shade us during the summer. A tree that doesn't have dense branching is needed so that we get solar gain during the winter to warm the house. Nice flowers would be a great addition.

I have thought of using yellowwood, kentucky coffeetree, amur cork tree (male cultivar) or possibly a heartnut-butternut hybrid. Which should I pick? Who am I forgetting about? Please remember that I'm in a warming zone 4.

Keene, NH(Zone 5a)

hmmm- i don't think you want the butternut tree- i'll have to get a picture sometime of the one around the corner here- it swallows up a whole yard and house..amazingly huge- not to metion the nuts that fall on your head- but it is an impressive tree. maybe you need an elm- there's a farm here in keene that grows special disease resistant elms- vase shaped, leaves high up, etc.

Keene, NH(Zone 5a)

here's a link to "Liberty Elm" site! http://www.libertyelm.com/ale2.htm

Orwell, VT

Thank you sjms. You're most likely right about the butternut x heartnut but I love their tropical like leaves and open horizontal branching. Elms....... I think that elms would get too big for this spot. I actually planted 100 Liberty Elms here in my town to celebrate our 200 birthday back in the 80's.

David

Tonasket, WA(Zone 5a)

At my other place where I lived for 50 years, there were 2 American elms, planted before I moved there. They were still growing strong, but were subject to aphids, causing a black residue on whatever was growing below. I don't know if the new disease resistant types are also resistant to aphids. Other than that problem I loved the elms. Here at this location I planted a Fraxinus augustifolia Raywood, 12 years ago, It is probably 35 to 40 feet tall now, does create a lot of fairly heavy shade, for my deck.

If you want reasonably fast shade I don't think Yellowood will do that, mine planted at the southwest corner of my house also 12 years ago, is less than 12 feet tall now. You might consider Kentucky Coffee Tree, Gymnogladus dioicus. Mine is only 4 years old now, is about 9 or 10 feet tall., it is described as a tall open tree.

Donna

Peoria, IL

David,

Sophora (Styphnolobium) japonica probably isn't going to be quite hardy enough unless you're in a protected area. Maackia amurensis isn't going to be quite tall enough unless you can compromise on the size. Ailanthus is, well........ you know. A native purist would probably seek out Robinia pseudoacacia 'Chicago Blues' and it's fantastically fragrant flowers that the (now dying) bees make a great honey from. To be honest, I'm nervous about having Robinia within 200 yards of my house. Koelrueteria is out on hardiness issues. Phellodendron would work but lacks interesting flowers. Pterocarya isn't hardy enough. Larix species are going to be too narrow, the short term especially unless Resin enlighten us on some wider growing ones. I guess I'd conclude that it's hard to live in Zone 4. Coffeetrees are great trees, even if they don't have flowers. Give it a shot. Yellowwood are nice but perhaps on the wide-growing side. I planted one in my parents yard and it's been growing 18"-30" year. Make sure that you get good branch angles on them. Otherwise, I'd be tempted to try pushing a Sophora.

Regards,
Ernie

Northumberland, United Kingdom(Zone 9a)

Larix gmelinii is fairly broad, as larches go

I'd go for that Butternut hybrid, though - magnificent foliage

Resin

Thumbnail by Resin
Eau Claire, WI

I'd go with either the Phellodendron or the Maackia. I've got P. 'HIs Majesty', which is a male clone developed at the U of Minn. arboretum. I love the branching of this tree and the foliage stays pretty much perfect all season. Last summers drought had no apparent impact on it, and it grows 1'-2'/year. The Maackia grows a bit taller than what is normally reported. There are a few at Longenecker Gardens in Madison that are in the 35' range and quite beautiful. Mine is about 15' and averaging 12"-18"/year. One advantage of this tree is that it flowers later than most trees, usually in mid-late July where I'm at.

Saint Paul, MN(Zone 4a)

Would any Sorbus work?

Cincinnati, OH(Zone 6b)

I like the coffeetree idea. It tends to grow taller than wider, and for shade it's nice because it leafs out late and drops a little early, which means you get the benefit of sun on those cooler spring and fall days.

Scott

Elburn, IL(Zone 5a)

KCT will get far larger than 40' though, eventually. But, it does have HUGE leaves that leave very few branches once they drop--perfect summer shade/winter sun plant. I used one on the west side of my old house for that exact purpose. Catalpa would do the same. How about Kalopanax septemlobus--huge leaves, deerproof trunk, and probably good for the 40' level in Zone 4?

Northumberland, United Kingdom(Zone 9a)

Quoting:
Would any Sorbus work?

S. aucuparia (European Rowan) would be OK, though it tends to have a fairly narrow crown, particularly when young, and never gets very large (typically 6-10m tall). It is also listed as an invasive alien in some areas of North America. S. americana (American Rowan) is native there, but even smaller, 5-8m tall.

Resin

Elburn, IL(Zone 5a)

Sorbus alnifolia?

Northumberland, United Kingdom(Zone 9a)

Quoting:
Sorbus alnifolia?

If it is zone 4 hardy, why not? One of my books says zone 6, but given its native range, it shoud certainly be zone 5, and perhaps zone 4.

Resin

Elburn, IL(Zone 5a)

My friend, in what used to be Zone4, and is now listed as Zone 5, has a 30 year old S. alnifolia. It has seen some bitter winters. Nice tree, but now that I think of it, densely branched. I wonder if that is a species trait. It was absolutely loaded with large fruit though.

Northumberland, United Kingdom(Zone 9a)

Quoting:
Nice tree, but now that I think of it, densely branched. I wonder if that is a species trait

Pretty much a genus trait - certainly all the whitebeams (Sorbus subgenus Aria).

Resin

Eau Claire, WI

It's not unusual for me to exceed my horticultural limits, but I'll go on the record as saying S. alnifolia is fully z4 hardy. It's somewhat unique among the Whitebeams (i.e. Mountain Ash) in that it has simple foliage structure, but among the genus it may be the best for fall color. Are there any other Sorbus species with simpe leaves? I've been growing exactly one Korean Mtn Ash for over a 20th of a century now, and have never had any cold hardiness issues. It has yet to flower, but I am sooo going to flood this formum with pics when it does. Actually, I was thinking of starting a new thread about trees and/or shrubs that have either been disappointments or exceeded your expectations, and this is one that has underperformed in my opinion. I'm looking for it to break out, and hopefully this is the year.

Bob

Northumberland, United Kingdom(Zone 9a)

Hi Bob,

All of the whitebeams (Sorbus subgenus Aria; sometimes split off as genus Aria) have simple leaves, while the rowans (Sorbus subgenus Sorbus) all have pinnate leaves. There are a number of hybrids between species of the two subgenera which have partially compound leaves (basal leaflets, grading into a simple apex).

Best to drop that silly archaic term "mountain ash", it doesn't help distinguish things (and correctly refers to Fraxinus texensis anyway!).

Resin

Tonasket, WA(Zone 5a)

I grow several Sorbus, have grown 2 Sorbus alnifolia Korean Mtn Ash, or Resin should I just say Sorbud alnifolia Korean. anyway they have both bloomed nicely for at least half of their 12 year lives, and set berries. Mine are both tall and slender.

Also have Sorbus lutescens, Sorbus microphylla (think I may have lost that one), Sorbus Shipova, which has eatble large fruits.

Donna

Cincinnati, OH(Zone 6b)

Bob,

Dawes has got several single Sorbus species they are trialing. Here's one called Sorbus Folgnerii. It was available last year from Eco-Gardens.

Scott

Thumbnail by Decumbent
Cincinnati, OH(Zone 6b)

Sorbus yuana.

Scott

Thumbnail by Decumbent
Cincinnati, OH(Zone 6b)

I have read that Sorbus alnifolia is okay to zone three even.

Thumbnail by Decumbent
Northumberland, United Kingdom(Zone 9a)

Quoting:
I grow several Sorbus, have grown 2 Sorbus alnifolia Korean Mtn Ash, or Resin should I just say Sorbud alnifolia Korean.

It's called Korean Whitebeam or Alder-leaved Whitebeam ;-) (since it is in subgenus Aria)

Resin

Orwell, VT

I have lost so many Sorbus to borers that I have given up. If there are any that are more resistant which are they? Possibly S. alnifolia?

I have enjoyed all the great ideas for the tree that I wish to plant. One thing I didn't mention is that I wish to pick a tree that will have a long life. I like the idea of planting something that has a chance of lasting for generations. If I go with a Butternut x Heartnut cross should it be a seedling or grafted cultivar? I have to say that Kentucky Coffeetree and Amur Corktree are both still in the running!

Attached is a butternut x heartnut cross that I planted as a seedling several years ago. This tree has really started to put on some nice growth. The male flowers are very attractive in the spring and the foliage is great.

Thumbnail by David_Vermont
Northumberland, United Kingdom(Zone 9a)

Quoting:
If I go with a Butternut x Heartnut cross should it be a seedling or grafted cultivar?

A seedling would likely live longer, but might not be so good for nut production as a tested good quality cultivar.

Quoting:
One thing I didn't mention is that I wish to pick a tree that will have a long life

Not sure what would be longest-lived of zone 4 trees. Maybe Quercus macrocarpa? Where I am, Taxus baccata is the obvious choice (to 2000 years, maybe more), but it's not hardy in zone 4.

Resin

Keene, NH(Zone 5a)

i can understand your love of the butternut/hartnut possibility- kind of unique, not your everyday tree for beside the house, and i'm sure you've considered all the issues. just thought i'd throw in my local observations......but really, i'm hardly the tree person that you are and another confession, i've never seen the cross, just read about it in the oikus catalog! but butternuts without the hartnut half pop up all over keene, and all over my yard, even in potted plants a squirrel has somehow confounded me, and here comes another sprout- some of the neighborhood trees are huge with girths that take two people to hug, and when given room spread a mighty canopy over a very large area that not much grows under- Still, this one tree around the corner, is definitely a neighbor hood presence, sort of the blacksmith under the spreading chestnut kind of tree- only in this case its kids bikes and stuff-- I guess i'm just saying it gets real big,and makes a whole lota nuts! have fun, though, and you mentioned planting all those freedom elms in your town, are they doing well?? sarah

Kalispell, MT(Zone 4b)

I just started reading this. But a nice different Elm like tree is a hornbeam. http://davesgarden.com/pf/go/74032/index.html The european I have planted 5 years ago is quit columnar but as they age they get rounded. I enjoy the lines. the lateral look and the texture. Just a thought. Personally I am planting yellowwood this year.

Post a Reply to this Thread

Please or sign up to post.
BACK TO TOP