Picking Trees For Yard

Okay - I am planning some major landscaping this year and I would like to plant some trees that will provide a barrier to the front pasture. I have a L-shaped yard and want to plant something that will block the field that is in my front yard. I want something fast growing and height does not matter maybe 12' - 15'. They will not be under power lines. I thought about Austrees but someone told me they were short lived and messy - What is your opinion? Do you have any suggestions which tree I should get to achieve what I want? I live in MO zone: 6a. I am anxious to hear from all of you. Thanks!
CathyB

Any fruit tree! I have 40 in my front yard!
http://mrschristiecolla.spaces.live.com
Christie

Although I love fruit trees - I have an Apple Tree in the front yard - I am thinking of something less messy. Something that will make a wind break and block the field in front yard.

Has anyone ever planted Juniper or evergreens? How did they do? Good Blocker? Good Wind break?

Cathyb

Last year I began to create a semi circle shaped windbreak on my property. I positioned it to block northwesterly winds but my actual goal was to create habitat for wildlife. A possible reduction in utility costs for my home in the future was an added bonus. I used Pinus resinosa, P. banksiana, and P. strobus so far. Not necessarily fast growing but not exactly slow. You may want to reconsider on the fast growing as generally the fast growing species are short lived. The trees I chose are the backbone of my windbreak for lack of a better term. I chose them for their height and I chose species that were well adapted to my area. The area in which I planted these pines is well drained. Pines don't seem to like wet feet so if you are going to use them, your site shouldn't be low to the extent that water is present on and off during the year. This year I will add more of the above species and will also begin to add others of varying heights as fill in. In the years to come, I will add shrubs. It was my choice to go with a mixed species windbreak.

On another area of my property I planted bareroot Thuja occidentalis (White Cedar). I did that 3 years ago and it had been my intent to create an actual windbreak as well as to provide habitat for birds however I got sidetracked and haven't gone back to that area to work on it. The White Cedar is doing well there so all I need to do is sit down and select companion species then go back and add plants. That windbreak is going to be a mix of deciduous and coniferous although the other one will be only coniferous.

Sounds as if you have a lot of space with which to work. Some trees you might want to consider would be P. strobus (White Pine) if used in and amongst other species to minimize damage to the tree from wind, P. virginiana, P. echinata, P. taeda, as well as the White Cedar you already mentioned. Some people don't like the looks of those trees so you might want to go to the PlantFiles and look them up to see if they appeal to you.

Nice project you have in the works. It's hard making the leap to paper when you have a good idea in your mind but don't exactly know how to go about executing same. Once you nail down what you want, it gets a lot easier.

Lilacs would be my choice - plant 'em singly in a row and watch then grow up and spread out into a fine hedge - plus they smell good in bloom :)))

Thanks for all the good info. Yes I will check them out. I think you have some great suggestions.

I know what you mean about having a blank canvas - the hardest part is taking the first leap and get it going. I am very excited to get started on all of this. I think it will look great!!!

Thanks Again,
Cathyb

I know you don't have any power lines and you did mention a height of 12-15' in the same sentence as mentioning trees so would you be open to shrubs? There are many multi stem shrubs that would form a really attractive barrier for you in that height range.

Ya know what - this morning me and hubby were talking and that is exactly what he suggested!!! Yes i think to achieve the privacy in the yard I need to go with shrubs....... now - which shrubs should I get????? I know nothing about shrubs. I don't think I want flowering bushes...... such as lilacs - I have some of those already. I would like something that stays green all year. I don't want a bunch of sticks sticking up in the winter. Ha!!

Okay - Shrubs it is..... now i am on the hunt for the perfect shrub..........
CathyB

Thuga Green Giant is supposed to be fast growing stays green year-round and well branched down to the ground. Recommended: planting in two staggered rows. Can be pruned as a hedge or allowed to grow. This could be the backdrop for shrubs whether evergreen or deciduous, flowering or non-flowering.
I hope you find these links useful.
http://muextension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/hort/g06830.htm
http://www.mdc.mo.gov/forest/IandE/MOConservationTreesAndShrubs/contents.html
http://outreach.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/hort/
http://extension.missouri.edu/regions/

Thanks so much... I will check these out.
CathyB

Cathy, how long/big is the area you're doing? You might not want to stick with just 1 kind of shrub. Instead, mix it up with a variety of different shrubs. Just a thought.

Most deciduous shrubs flower. Off the top of my head, I can't think of a deciduous shrub that doesn't bloom. Some may have blooms that are not all that obvious though. It's not so much a matter of if they bloom but when they bloom. I don't think you can avoid a bloom per se unless you go with 100% evergreens and even many of those bloom.

You might want to consider mixing them all up. Creates visual interest for sure but there are other benefits.

Here are some for you and your husband to look up and see if you like them or not:
Ceanothus americanus (New Jersey Tea)
Callicarpa americana (Beautyberry)
Photinia melanocarpa (Black Chokeberry)
Viburnum rufidulum (Rusty Viburnum)
Viburnum prunifolium (Blackhaw Viburnum)
Styrax americanus (American Snowbell)
Acacia angustissima (Prairie Acacia)
Euonymus americana (Strawberry Bush)
Staphylea trifolia (Bladdernut)
Ilex decidua (Possumhaw)
Chionanthus virginicus (Fringe Tree)
Lindera benzoin (Corkwood)
Crataegus phaenopyrum (Washington Hawthorn)
Leitneria floridana (Corkwood)
Physocarpus opulifolius (Ninebark)
Ptelea trifoliata (Hoptree)
Rhododendron prinophyllum (? Azalea)
Hamamelis virginiana (Witch Hazel)
Aesculus pavia (Red Buckeye)
Sambucus nigra ssp. canadensis (
Corylus americana (Hazelnut)
Itea virginica (Sweetspire)
Carolina Rose (Rosa carolina)
Rhus copallinum (Winged Sumac)
Rhus aromatica (Fragrant Sumac)

Here are two evergreen shrubs:
Sideroxylon lycioides (Bumelia)
Hypericum hypericoides ssp. hypericoides (St Andrew's Cross)
I'm not familiar with these evergreens. I don't grow them.

All of the above shrubs will sort of multi-task for you.
This site explains more in detail-
http://www.mdc.mo.gov/conmag/2004/12/30.htm
Regarding the above shrubs multi-tasking for you, this is what I meant- "These natural tools make your landscape beautiful, resilient, and useful to wildlife".

Hope this helps give you and hubby a few ideas.
If for some reason you can't find an image of the above in the PlantFiles, you should be able to find images of most of the shrubs listed above here-
http://www.grownative.org/index.cfm?fuseaction=plants.main

You can have a terrific screen with viburnums. There are so many different cultivars it will make your head spin. Great form, beautiful leaves, flowers and fruit (some have very fragrant flowers and the birds will eat the fruit) and most have beautiful fall color.

While this may not be the opinion of everyone, I would not plant lilacs. Lilacs are nice for two weeks when they bloom and after that, they are done - no fall color, no fruit and some of the older cultivars are just plain ugly with all of the mildew on their leaves. There are just too many wonderful shrubs that have been introduced over the years to plant lilacs (OK, plant a couple for the flowers, but put them in the back where you won't see them. (:o))

Remember, too, that anything that grows really fast will get too large really fast. Equil has a good list of plants to give you a place to start researching. Also, go into your local nurseries and ask for some advise. Don't allow them to sell you a million of one single plant - even if they offer you a big discount. Diversity is the key. In zone 6a you will have so many different shrubs available to select from.

Remember that fall is an excellent time to plant woody plants and most nurseries will have good discounts in the fall, too. Don't try to do this in one season. As you look around, you will start to see what is out there and your tastes may change.
Good luck,
Mike

Common name for Lindera benzoin is spicebush, not corkwood. Equil's probably cutting and pasting
too fast again ;)

Wow!! Thanks everyone! There is sooo much great info here that i will have to set down and go through it - look around and see what all of you are talking about. But one thing is for sure - I DID come to the right place for my answers.

Again, Thanks to all of you!!
cathyb

Oops, not so fast cathyb-

corrections and an addition or two to the common names:

Ceanothus americanus (Eastern New Jersey Tea)
Callicarpa americana (American Beautyberry)
Lindera benzoin (Spicebush)
Physocarpus opulifolius (Eastern Ninebark)
Rhododendron prinophyllum (Roseshell Azalea)
Sambucus nigra ssp. canadensis (American Elderberry)
Corylus americana (American Hazelnut)

Just a neat little website that offered up a few more shrubs you might want to consider-
http://agebb.missouri.edu/hort/meg/archives/v10n1/meg2.htm

Here's a nice link for you to a nursery that should have some of the shrubs for you to consider from the list I posted-
http://www.mowildflowers.net/plants/shrubs.html

Here's a link to plant sales in your state if you like to physically see the plant before you buy-
http://www.mowildflowers.net/calendar/calandar2.htm

Last-
http://www.grownative.org/index.cfm?fuseaction=wherebuy.retail
And now I will run and hide for giving you that last link because you checkbook will not be happy with me.

Oh Cathy!! Look at the trees and shrubs you can order at the second to the last link! Maybe this will take you directly to the list http://www.mowildflowers.net/plants/shrubs.html

Have fun!!

Cathyb, I needed an evergreen shrub to provide privacy screening, and after research decided on Nellie R. Stevens Hollies. They are large shrubs, and will grow fairly fast. They have a beautiful dark green leaf, and red berries to brighten them up. The leaves don't have spots, and they seem to need little care. I don't know if you wanted anything this large, or even if they are okay in your part of the country, but you might look them up and see if they meet your needs.

cathyb:

I hope you are having fun trying to narrow down some of your planting choices while perusing the wealth of information from the weblinks provided above. One way to do this is consider the pH, moisture, and temperature regime of your planting site. You'll find that several of the overwhelming number of choices will be simply inappropriate (need permanently wet sites; really high or low pH; etc.).

If you have excessively windy conditions, then any evergreen is going to have some difficulty (not impossible, though) getting started. Its year-round foliage will always be catching the breeze, and in winter the dessication caused by the combo of wind/cold is especially tough. That said, people grow broadleaf and needled evergreens all the time and certainly much farther north/colder than your site. Just plan for it (extra watering when necessary, and temporary gentle staking for stabilization) to increase your rate of success.

That being said (and knowing no more about your site/situation), I'd suggest the following evergreen to semi-evergreen shrub choices (since "bare sticks" were something mentioned to avoid):

Viburnum x 'Conoy'
Viburnum x 'Eskimo'
Viburnum x 'Chesapeake'
Viburnum x pragense
Viburnum x burkwoodii
Viburnum x rhytidophylloides and its several clones

Gosh, wherever did I come up with that list? treelover³ is an enabler. I grow all these here at the Valley, in roughly the same zone as you and on average circumneutral clay loam soils. These shrubs vary in size from 4-6' compact up to 15-20'; I listed them in order of increasing height.

So you might've predicted that I'd voice volumes viburnum-wise...to show there's more (well, a little, anyway) to life and landscape, here's a few more choice broadleaved shrub and small tree species that could fit your bill:

Osmanthus americanus
Magnolia virginiana var. australis (several named clones)
Ilex opaca (many named clones)
Ilex x meserveae (many named clones)
Ilex glabra
Ilex hybrids (many named clones)

Sugarplum mentioned 'Nellie R. Stevens', which is a tried/true selection. There are a zillion more hollies in that category; visit http://www.hollysocam.org/poppubs.htm (and as recommended above, hide your checkbook/credit cards). I have several of these texts, and grow quite a few Ilex species and clones here at the Valley.

Before I list any more plants (I am on a slalom, it seems), I'll make a few more design, arrangement, or aesthetics suggestions.

•You may want to create your screen with a sense of uniformity. In that case, select species that will all reach roughly the same height/size. It may be wise to avoid massive single species plantings, so that if a specific pest or disease were to occur, it wouldn't affect every plant.
•You may want to tantalize your eye as you observe/experience this new planting. In that case, select species that vary in height, width, foliage character, flowering season, fruiting, etc. This is more of a challenge to pull off, but that's some of the fun of it.
•Consider more than evergreen-ness in screening! Densely branched species; persistent (but not green) foliage, known as marcescence; and heavily fruited species in winter all can provide more than adequate visual screening and contribute to a windbreak. Using species like these can add a tremendous amount of visual interest to the winter landscape (if it is all about the human experience) AND your fine feathered and furry friends will appreciate the bonus of additional food supply along with the winter cover. You will be the Queen for Life in their estimation.

That said, some non-evergreen shrub and small tree choices for fruit and/or persistent foliage, or dense stems:

Malus (so many good clones it isn't even funny)
Crataegus viridis 'Winter King'
Ilex decidua (several clones)
Ilex verticillata (many excellent clones)
Viburnum (couldn't resist; there are quite a few more!)
Aronia (Photinia) arbutifolia 'Brilliant'
Photinia (Aronia) melanocarpa
Carpinus spp.
Ostrya spp.
Hamamelis vernalis (includes wow fragrance)
Cornus mas 'Golden Glory'
Corylus americana

Well, that's enough to wear anyone out. You may have already made your choices and are out planting already given that we've had a pretty decent sunny week. In any event, have fun with it, experiment, and take the time (as Mike suggests) over several seasons to develop that which you hope to live with for a long time.

Here are 2 photos of my windbreak/screening plantting. Started 12 years ago. Added to whenever!!I I have lost two or three over the years, but since it is a mix or deciduous and evergreen, not really a problem. This morning not the best for photos, cloudy and dark.

DonnaS

The first photo is from the west end of windbreak. This one is from the east.

Nice photos rutholive. My windbreak is relatively new so it's not nearly as mature as your windbreak. I wish I had a crystal ball and could see what mine would look like in 10 years after I've added more plants.

Because robins migrated so late this year, my berries were stripped in two days time and then they moved on. Therefore I suggest you plant trees and bushes/shurbs that are "nature friendly."

Two questions, VV. One, Osmanthus americanus. Is that common down your way? How's it hold up there? I think I'm really zone pushing this one. I love the plant. I'm hoping for flowers soon (should it have flowered already?). But the foliage looks like death eating a cracker right now. Burned badly. This is only my second winter with it, and I'm wondering if I should expect this to happen every winter. My Sarcococca humilis, which is right next to it, looks just as bad and for the same reason. Another zone pusher.

Second question. Is Aronia now in the genus Photinia, or vice versa? I was confused by your synonymous nomenclatural reference. Perhaps that was an old separation I never knew about?

Scott

Scott:

Yes. And furthermore...I lost track after the sixth question.

•Osmanthus americanus (American devilwood) is fairly often used in Louisville, not quite as much in Lexington (where it is much colder). I'd call it one of the old-fashioned southern shrub/small trees that got pushed out of favor 30-40 years ago.
•Established devilwood plants have no trouble at all. I used to tend to a 30' (9.1 m) plant back in my former horticulturist life. Reminds you of nothing so much as a big old Magnolia virginiana.
•Zone 6 is a good bet, but these plants have survived -20s F (-28.8C) in KY; suburban Cincinnati ought not be to much of a stretch provided it isn't your primary windbreak.
•Expect flowers around mid-late April, and then exceedingly fragrant. They are not particularly showy, but add plenty to the garden experience. Dirr mentions early/mid April down in GA.
•Plants without a lot of roots under them will certainly suffer moisture stress and dessication in winter. I have one (7G) that I just put in the ground in December. Same story: lots of brownish foliage, but I expect it to shrug off winter 2006/07 and start kicking in a few weeks.

•I think Aronia has become Photinia somewhat recently; Dirr's 1998 edition doesn't mention it. I double-checked PlantFiles before I posted to see if there was consensus. It is found both ways there, so I posted both so folks could find the information. By the time we get used to using the new name, it'll change again. Keeps taxonomists employed.

Unfortunately, Photinia to me will always be Photinia x fraseri, the ubiquitous southern redtip.

I have one Osmanthus americanus that I planted two years ago and it has grown quickly. It has some yellowing leaves right now, but I think it's because it is getting ready to put on the new foliage. My only problem is there are no other specimens around for it to reproduce with, therefore it doesn't fruit. I have walked these woods extensively and haven't found another Osmanthus nearby. I have mine trained to a single trunk and as VV stated, it looks like a smaller version of Sweetbay.

I'll chip in from z6 MO...

I like VV's recommendations. I grow many of them here. A couple of them may not get as tall as you would like, but they certainly have their placed in a mixed windbreak.

I like Equil's list as well. Hypericums have been touchy for me, and I can't comment on Sideroxylon.

I don't remember seeing Aesculus parviflora (Bottlebrush Buckeye) above, that's a good one.
I'm an oddball, but I like Juniperus virginiana. I have also planted Juniperus chinensis cultivars like 'Blue Point' and 'Hooks' they grow very well here, too.

SB

Okay thanks everyone! I am currently still trying to get my yard in order from the ice storm in Jan. It almost wiped out everything we have. Limbs everywhere!!!! So as soon as I find my yard again I will be getting serious about this!!

Again, Thanks everyone
cathyB