Hi, I just noticed that there is a clematis and caladium coop going on. They have great choices for the clematis and I've picked out 6 of them.
Here is the link http://davesgarden.com/forums/t/691005/
Great news, there is a clematis coop going on.
I'm going to buy some from the co-op, but I am not very familiar with clematis, though I grow one or 2 now. Any suggestions or words of advice?
happy, here's an article that I saved from somewhere. It listed "easy to grow" clematis. I'm trying a bunch of the ones I like. If they look pretty, I buy 'em. And I've had great luck with them too. By the way, I'm not getting a Dr. Ruppel, because I already have one. It is the bloomiest one I have. I would definitely get that one if I didn't already have it.
http://www.gardenbuddies.com/articles/march03/bill/bill.html
Maureen: Thanks so much for posting that excellent article on Clematis for Beginners by Bill Bird. He is extremely knowledgeable and a very experienced Clematis grower with several hundred of these gorgeous vines in his garden.
Devon: "They sell very tiny inexpensive infants in plastic bags early in the year. Everybody likes a bargain, but these bargains will cost you time and convenience, if they survive......These young plants need to be nursed along in a pot to a decent size before planting in the garden. They should be planted in a 1 gallon pot and grown there for at least the first summer, and then planted out in the garden in September or October. This requires constant attention to watering and fertilizing all summer long." Truer words were never spoken!!! This speaks volumes in our growing area. Our Summers can be very hot and sometimes with little precipitation. Grow your baby Clematis as instructed in the article. Don't plant it in your garden until you see those roots poking through the drainage holes. Planting in late Fall or early Winter is the best option in our area because the ground is not frozen & precipitation is more abundant. Then plant according to the instructions in the article. Don't forget to mulch around the vine without getting any on it directly. Don't worry about pruning it for the first year. It's more important to get a well established root system that will be able to support your Clematis. Yes, it takes a bit more time, but you will be very pleased with the results. You will have a healthy & thriving Clematis vine, rather than a dead dried up one. Please also realize that it may take 3 years before you get a full flush of flowers, but with each passing year the blooms will increase.
The lighter colored varieties do very well in pt. shade or in early morning sun. Their delicate color may be bleached out otherwise. The darker shades will do best with full sun to bring out their rich color.
Pay particular attention to the ones that he features in his article. He specifically directs your attention to the Viticella varieties, Group III, because they are the most resistant to Clematis Wilt. Also, some of the others either have Viticella parentage in their genes or don't succumb to wilt as easily as others.
Hope this helps.
HI Shirley - your welcome. Glad this post was helpful. I really liked it and saved it to my favorites last year.
Thank you all! I don't mind babying them along for a season. I clearly have some studying to do, though. . . .
http://davesgarden.com/gwd/c/4995/
Debbie is well known for her large clematis root system and I've already placed my order! She's GREAT to work with and has 100% on Watchdog.
Kathy
I agree..you'll like Debbie's Clematis so much better as they have a HUGE ROOTSYSTEM and that is what you want in your Clematis...Jeanne
Jeanne: Is that a new one that you just received?
Shirl...nope that is a pic from one last year!!...I haven't ordered yet...I am going to put in three Windor Arches and will need 6 new clematis...LOL...Jeanne
OMG, that is an impressive root balll. I have 9 on order with Debbie and can't wait to receive them :>)