OK I've had a look at both pics weed_woman, and here's my two cents worth. The top one, I would dig up, divide into two down the middle, and replant into two pots of fresh orchid mix. After about a month, I would start to feed them with a weak foliar feed every two weeks until about May. Then I'd try to find somewhere cool to keep them through winter. From August onwards I'd start to feed them again, preferably with something with a low nitrogen / high phosphorus & potassium ratio until the end of November, when I'd switch to something with the opposite formula to encourage new shoots to make more bulbs for the following year.
I'm inclined to follow the same plan with the leafless plant as well, only I'd try dividing it into 3 - it looks to me like you've got a lot of back bulbs there, and they are only good for producing new bulbs from - once they get to that point they will never flower again, you need big fat bulbs with lots of leaves for flowers.
As regards the markings on the leaves, I think you have two choices, it is either the result of old insect damage - aphid, thrip or red spider mite being most likely, in which case it will be confined to the older leaves and will grow out and go away with time and new plant growth; or, you have as you suggested, picked up some sort of virus or fungus or bacterial infection - if so it actually looks fairly minor to me, and I wouldn't get too het up, unless it starts showing up on the newest leaves and spreads more rapidly. Even if it is some sort of disease, plants are like people in that respect - they are exposed to diseases all the time, usually with little or no visible affects, especially if the plant is healthy in itself.
Your plants look hungry to me, I'd guess it has been a while since they were repotted, and it wouldn't surprise me if the roots were going off. I'm ashamed to admit it but i have killed my fair share of cymbidiums by leaving them in the same pot for years on end, not realising that the potting mix had compacted as it had gotten older, and the roots had died for lack of air.until the whole thing just fell out of the pot for lack of attachment! When I purchased my orchids at the Royal Show in 2005 they recommended repotting them once every three years to make sure the mix stayed porous. Cymbidium roots are strange things, they are not like normal plant roots. Unlike most plants they don't make fine feeder roots at all. Instead they have large roots with a thick spongy layer on the outside which absorbs both gases and liquids. This is why orchid mixtures are so coarse - the roots have to be able to breathe.
This makes sense if you live up a tree in the humid tropics, the spongy root surface can actually pull moisture out of the air and any water which runs down the bark of the tree the orchid lives in
will collect soluble nutrients from dust, animal droppings, rotting leaf litter, you name it and the spongy orchid roots will suck this up as it passes over the roots. Thus what you end up with is a plant that needs greater aeration than most and a requirement that all it's nutrition comes in a soluble form to begin with. Regular plants with feeder roots on the other hand, are capable of using chemistry to transform solid nutrient containing substances into liquid solutions which the plants can then suck up out of the soil.
Best of luck with your plants, KK.
