Rhodie advice

Springfield, OH(Zone 5b)

Hello, I am new to this forum and I need some belated advice on Rhodies. Last year I purchased 4 at Lowes. I have a shady spot on the north side of my house with mature Norway Spruce and I hoped to underplant them there. Both for some color and to provide a natural screen between the neighbors and that side of the yard. Well as some probably have already guessed, they weren't very happy there and this spring were not looking well at all so I relocated them to a spot on the west side of the house sort of under a maple (at least ten feet away) Two of the sadder looking ones did not survive, but the other two made it and started looking much happier. new growth.. leaves perky and glossy etc. I actually thought they might bloom for me as they made buds but nothing ever happened with them. Here is a pic taken just moments ago, You can see the buds. A few days ago it looked much better but at 10 degrees today the leaves look a bit pinched.
More info.. no I haven't done a ph where they are right now. Under the spruce was 6.5..
cultivars are ENGLISH ROSEUM and CHIONOIDES
So here is my belated questions 1) did it not bloom becasue of being moved or is there something else I need to give it. I do have some azalea food but I didn't give them any this year. 2) will it be ok where it is now? It's partial shade.. probably morning sun and afternoon shade.

Thumbnail by Jazzpunkin
Hurst, TX(Zone 7b)

Rhodies normally bloom starting in the spring so the buds which you see now will bloom around April or so. The plant develops flower buds starting in July, more or less, but not much else will happen until next year. Your new location sounds fine. By the way, rhodies and azaleas feed off the decomposing mulch and need no fertilizer unless there is a problem with your soil. Just maintain 3-4 inches of mulch to keep them happy and water often during the warmer months. You are doing fine!

Springfield, OH(Zone 5b)

Oh Good! Thank you for the info. I had read something about taking off old blooms and was wondering if I should take these off..lol. would have shot myself in the foot eh? Thanks again

Baltimore, MD(Zone 7a)

Jazpunkin,

I think you may have the root fungus called Phytoptera (sp??) rot. Someone please tell me the real name for this.
When green leaves roll up all of a sudden and droop down, that is root fungus problem and it is not curable.
Dig up and get rid of your Rhodie and do not plant another one in the same place.

I may be right--I may be wrong.

Gita

Dublin, CA(Zone 9a)

It's spelled Phytophthora. Here's an article on it and what it does to Rhodies.
http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/plantdiseasefs/450-615/450-615.html
There are a number of other plants that are also susceptible to these organisms, so if that's what it is you definitely shouldn't plant another Rhodie, but also avoid the other plants that may be susceptible (the article lists some others that are affected)

Hurst, TX(Zone 7b)

The leaves can also curl as proctection against cold temperatures. Note the snow in the picture and the date of the posting (December in Ohio).

Laurel, MD

Phytophthora cinnamomi --This spring I planted 8 rhodendron roseum elegans in a spot that previously had healthy old growth azaleas. Woe is me as I've watched the new plants succumb to phytophthora cinnamomi (root rot). I've discovered that there is not a cure for this fungus and it also infects laurel,viburnum, azalea, juniper.boxwood, camellia, yew, and adromeda. YIKES! I am now at a loss at what to plant in the significantly large infected spot in front of my house even though the nursery will replace the plants. Any suggestions from fellow rhodeodendron enthusiasts wil be greatly appreciated.

Baltimore, MD(Zone 7a)

Shipkins,

I lost 2 Rhodies in the same spot due to this root rot.

Than I planted my beautiful Bob Hope Camellia bush in the same spot and it has thrived and blooms profusely every Spring. I have now had it for about 7 or 8 years.

Gita

Cincinnati, OH

"fungus called Phytoptera (sp??) rot"
Phytophthora is no longer a fungus. The free-swimming sexual generation and the alternate "fungal" generation have the same DNA. It is closely related to Giant Brown Kelp, formerly a plant. It can grow 20 feet per day. The alternate generation likewise is a single cell swimming with two flagellae.
Aquarium stores sell Malachite Green and Methylene Blue for treating the free swimming generation of cousin 'Ich'. Blue is light activated so it is useless for us. Green is worth a try. I think a well infected plant is already clogged and can't be saved.

southern willamette , OR(Zone 7a)

i'm a little late to this thread, but that Rhody is definitely saying "it's cold out here!" Now, if it does that little trick during the summer... then it has an illness. But, it actually looks quite healthy and is busy tucking itself in until the cold passes. please update us on how it looks now! some rhody's are more prone to doing that than others and they are all more likely to do it in eary winter cold spells, before they are used to the winter, than they are in the late winter. And it does usually take a year or two after planting/tranplanting to bloom (more than just a bloom or two) again.

Coos Bay, OR(Zone 8a)

hi all....... new to this forum ...but have tons of rhodies. sounds like it might be just 'keeping warm' with the curling leaves. i have a few that do that every winter and then green up and erect themsleves when it warms up. they could also be a little shocky from all the moving to. but just wait and see if anything else happens. good luck!
pic is of rhodie carmen.. very dwarf

Thumbnail by shokami2
southern willamette , OR(Zone 7a)

cute carmen! I love most all of the sanguineum hybrids

NORTH CENTRAL, PA(Zone 5a)

That plant is an acid loving plant. It is now growing in a PH 6.5 which is just a tiny bit acid.
You should use organic fertilizer for acid loving plants to help that plant quite a bit. The mulch suggestion is very important. I agree that the plant is curled because of a cold day.
It looks otherwise to be in reasonably good shape.

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