Choosing a location for your Greenhouse.

Brown City, MI(Zone 5a)

I am considering getting a Rion 8 x 16 greenhouse, probably in early Spring.

I would like to prepare the area now if possible.

One of my choices is an area that is right next to a Daylily Bed. The bed is rectangular and runs North to South, as would the greenhouse on the west side of the bed. It would sit pretty close to the bed with only a path way between them, but this is a relatively flat area, which I have little of, and close to the house so I would have access to electricity.

This probably is a silly question, but would the greenhouse create a lot of shade on the bed or would most of the sunlight just pass through it. I would probably have the shade cloth on in summer.

I would appreciate any tips you can give me for choosing and preparing the area.

I intend to get the base, but was still wondering if I should raise it up on timbers. Planning on some kind of gravel or stones for the floor, which will probably have a hard clay base by the time I level off the area.

Kathy

Fulton, MO

TC, if the GH is twinwall PC, you get about 80% PAR transmissivity. Through the greenhouse (and therefore two layers of twinwall) you would get about 60% transmissivity. That's 40% shade cloth, if you wanted to look at it that way. That doesn't account for complete shading by plants, benches, GH shade cloth, etc.

Still, I can't imagine the GH being tall enough to impact anything but the area immediately east of the GH.

Keep in mind that you have a GH that tends toward the rectangular. I think standard advice, for maximal winter heat gain, would be to run the GH E-W. There are certainly other considerations on orientation, such as space, aesthetics, shading by trees, etc.

Now is the time to consider insulating the foundation. Good luck!

SB

Brown City, MI(Zone 5a)

We have decided to build a frame for the foundation. Maybe 6'x6"s. I was just planning on pouring gravel or some other material for the floor. I hadn't thought about insulating it, any suggestions?

Hillsboro, OH(Zone 6a)

Kathy, my other greenhouse is located in the wrong direction. Most of the sun hits the back end and one side. It is that way though because I needed it up and fast and there was already a gravel pad there. When I decide where to put the other, I will definately turn it so the long side faces south. It's amazing how much shelves of plants can shade the other side of the greenhouse! Of course I grow bigger types of plants than you will. LOL

I too am back to the plastic base (give up height), railroad tie, 4x6 or 6x6 debate. I'm also trying to decide if I should grab up another 4 foor section or two. I don't wanna have to add on later. Spoken like someone who doesn't know to start with the biggest one you can afford. :)

My other daily trauma...should I add something to hold heat in the winter? 6 mil inside or outside? Bubble wrap? I wish I could answer you but I can't answer me!

Brown City, MI(Zone 5a)

Ok, now I have to rethink location ............ the spot I had choosen would have to be North to South. Now that you guys brought it up, I can see where East to West would be better.

I'm still leaning tword the kit with the base, because I think the one at Costco is the best value I've seen, considering it comes with 2 rear vents and 4 (or was it 5 .... I'm getting so confused) roof vents the automatic openers, shade cloth, base, and a couple tables. (8.5x16.7) .......... but Sam's had an 8.5 x 20 ............. LOL, I will probably still be going back and forth for a while, hardest time I've ever had spending money ......

I was thinking that I could still mount the base on the wood frame and maybe that would give it even more stability. Maybe I'm wrong ............ wish I could go look at one.

Hillsboro, OH(Zone 6a)

I don't know if it helps you or not....the base is a U shaped channel that you fill with dirt or gravel to give the greenhouse weight. I don't think it serves any other purpose (maybe helps to keep it square?). If it comes with the kit, you might as well, but if you are buying it seperate, I don't see where you would need it if you use wood. I think the company recommends one or the other.

Brown City, MI(Zone 5a)

Michele, if you don't have the base, how do you attach it to the wood frame?

Greensboro, AL

http://www.bltllc.com/g-floor_main.htm

I wonder if this roll-out garage flooring might have an application in those small greenhouses.
Don't know the price.

Hillsboro, OH(Zone 6a)

Kathy, the bottom of the greenhouse is long pieces shaped like a D. The flat side goes down. You have to attach every piece with a T that also has the bottom shaped like a D. Each D has holes to attach it to either the base or wood. Mine is attached to railroad ties with 3 inch long galvanized screws.

Brown City, MI(Zone 5a)

Thanks Michele.

Thanks for the link Gloria.
That garage flooring looks like an interesting idea, but I think you need something that will drain for the floor.

Fulton, MO

Yes, I think you would definitely want something that would drain.

When I talk about insulating the foundation, I'm talking about sinking 1" think rigid foamboard vertically around the foundation. Additionally, you can bury pieces of foamboard horizontally under the soil/gravel/mulch of the greenhouse floor. This way, the ground acts as a thermal mass, as a heat sink which warms during the day and re-emits heat at night. The insulation just helps this heat go back into the GH instead of outside or deeper in the ground.

Soil doesn't have as high of a specific heat capacity as does water, but it helps! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Specific_heat_capacity

Brown City, MI(Zone 5a)

Do you only want scattered pieces of foamboard on the floor? Seems like if you did the whole floor, it wouldn't drain.

I was planning on using plastic milk cartons and/or other containers filled with dyed water to help retain heat as well.

Fulton, MO

The foamboard has to be buried. You're preventing the loss of heat from the floor/foundation laterally with the horizontal perimeter pieces, and preventing heat loss vertically with the horizontal pieces buried under the floor. You have to have some thermal mass (soil, gravel, whatever) on top of the foamboard. Think of this mass of soil as a great big barrrel of black water! You could put holes in it or better yet, just cut or break it into pieces so that it would drain. SB

Donna in Douglas, GA(Zone 8b)

stressbaby,
that's very interesting about using the foam in the floor!
Did you do that in your hoop GH? Would you use the foam in any cilimate, which I'm in south ga. our winters aren't to harsh. But that could change in a blink! Would love to see your finished pictures, of your hoop GH. What kind of vent system do you use?

I was thinking about building A-frame or this one http://www.buildeazy.com/greenhouse_imp.html
Starting out with a 12 x 12, facing east -west!

stressbaby, I enjoy reading your post,,,,,,,,,,YOUR SMART - u know your stuff!!!!
That's a good thing, I'm glad your sharing too!!

Donna

Donna in Douglas, GA(Zone 8b)

Here's a picture of my 2 possiblities!
I really love the A-frame design, it could always be converted into a fish house for hubby in our later years! lol! Any one have a comment's?
Donna

Thumbnail by gapeahen

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