water quality

I'm a relatively new CONTAINER vegetable gardener so apologies in advance if these several questions on watering seem dumb or already have been hashed about a thousand times...

(1) I've read that it's not good to water container peppers and tomatoes with cold water (directly from the hose) but also not to use warmed water that has passed through the softener (hot water line). How critical is hard water, cold water and diluted softener water to these plants?

(2) I've left hose water standing in tubs to allow it to warm -- is there an increased risk of disease from using stagnant water that's been sitting in ubs for several days?

(3) Because of the number of plants I have and my work schedule, it's impossible for me to water in the mornings. Which is the worst of two evils - watering in the early afternoon or early evening. (The night time temperatures have been running in the 50's and low 60's.)

(4) In some containers I used a mix of 40% spag peat, 30% vermiculite, 20% Perilite and 10% processed cow mature; in other containers I used 80% SoilAid (a commercial vegetable potting soil) and 20% perilite. In both cases the soil seems to remain WET about three inches down from the surface of the medium, but my peppers' leaves are "droopy" (though not wilted). I'm not sure if they need water or are drooping from excess moisture. The tomatoes (in the same medium) seem fine. The peppers in 2.5 gallon containers with plenty of drain holes and a 2 inch bedding of chopped Styrofoam at the bottom. Tomatoes are in 5 gallon containers.

(5) How reliable are the cheapo ($5) moisture meters, especially when used to measure medium that contains Vermiculite?

Thanks in advance to any and all who read and or respond - your expertise is invaluable. Michael

I don't use containers for veggies, but hopefully I can answer some of your questions. I wouldn't worry about the water temps, just use it from the hose. Hard water is fine in my opinion for veggies. I would say water in the early afternoon, but that is just a guess. If you keep the foliage dry you can probably water whenever without harm. The peppers are probably too wet but they will probably be fine when the temps heat up. No advice on the moisture meter. I say just use your finger to a depth of around 1-2 inches.

Hi Michael,

I have some tomatoes and peppers in containers and may be able to answer a few of your questions. I'm sure others with more experience will chime in. I water all my containers using water from the hose, straight, no warming, etc. I have not seen any problems as a result of this. The biggest problem I have with my containers (besides the plants getting too big) is drying out faster than my raised beds. To counter this, I use those moisture absorbing "crystals" in the soil around the root zone. I follow the container directions and mix it in. I think the brand I use is water-sorb, but there are numerous brands. I find that I can water every other day with this method, instead of every day.

I would definitely say that watering in the early evening is better because from what I understand, watering in the afternoon (if the sun is on the plants) can cause leaf burn and besides, the water evaporates more quickly in the heat of the afternoon. The plants are less stressed when it's cooler. I always water early evening and do not have problems with this regimen. My soil is "moist" but not "WET" and if it's that wet, i.e. if you could take a handful and squeeze water out, then I think it's too wet and I would worry about root rot. I mean, if it's 5 minutes after you watered, then that's okay, but if it's always that wet, the plants would not be happy. It seems like something weird is happening with your drainage if your soil stays that wet. My peppers definitely don't have droopy leaves. The flowers face downward so in that sense I suppose they "droop" but they are on firm stems and they just face downward. If the stems are sort of limp, that says to me that there is a problem. If the stems are firm, maybe you just chose a pepper variety with a droopy leaf style.

This year I used Miracle Gro because someone at work had bought 20 large bags and was moving and didn't want them and gave them to me free. I would not normally use that particular brand but I don't turn down free garden help!

Maybe if you can post a pic of your peppers, some of the experts could comment.
CMox

Thanks CMox and again to all others who replied.

It is interesting how many points of view we can get: one person favoring mid-day watering and another evening. Even though these are opposite suggestions I think it is just great that you folks are so willing to put in the time to reply and with so much supporting information. In the end I suppose I'll have to make a decision on my own about mid-day vs. early evening watering but all of you have given me some very valuable thoughts to ponder.

About my peppers -- there are actually several varieties: Carmen, Pasilla, Pablano, Chocolate minitiures and Big Early. ALL of them were drooping although tonight when I came home from work all of them were looking just fine.

One thing about watering during the mid-day that I can do as a container gardener is move them to the shade to reduce stress.

As for the mystery of them remaining so wet -- I really don't know. They are in plastic pails in a medium of peat, vermiculte. perlite and processed manure. I do think I have been over watering them, especially last week when the weather was rather cool and cloudy (and I brought them into the garage two or three days because of rain).

I guess the last question i have (worrying)... What are the first signs of root rot???

Thanks again to all, Michael

michael - i water my containers when i get home from work which is usually around 4 p.m. i water straight from the hose and i have had no problems at all. check out my "latest pictures" in the vegetable, tomato and pepper forums.

How is the drainage in those pails?

tombaak- it should be good. There are 4-5 quarter-inch holes at he bottom of each pail (pail diameter about 10 inches) plus four additional quarter-inch holes on the sides of the pails at the very bottom plus about a three inch layer of plastic peanuts at the bottom. I have a feeling it may be the medium that's causing the problem... last year I used 1/3 each vermiculite, perile and peat. This year I tried a few other recipes (from extention services sites) that called for more vermiculite (which holds water) and less peat (which dries things up?) plus 10% sand and some commercial manure. And ( I confess) my mixing was NOT very consistant.

All of my containers with peppers and tomatoes LOOK like dark, caked mud on the surface yet the leaves are all a healthy green, but very DROOPY, not wilted. The Carman peppers (in photo) seem to have very large leaves in the center of the plant (maybe 3-4 inches across and six inches long).

As always- thanks a bushel for all of your help and advice.

PS (because people are always asking "what's with the thread spools?" -- I put them on the tops of stakes to help prevent accidental eye injuries, especially with kids around or visitors who just bend over fast to touch.

How do the plants look when you get a nice overcast rainy day? If they still look bad then it is drainage in the pots, which would be my guess also. It is probably too late to do anything about it as I am guessing the plants won't transplant well. I would get rid of the peanuts and make more of a mix without all the vermiculite and peat. Maybe just use a good commercial potting mix and if you want to improve drainage, add coir. I am a big fan of coir for pots. The roots just seem to love it. I started using it for my cacti as I had a hard time re-wetting peat. I would also not put a separate drainage layer on the bottom of the pot next time

Bill