Need advice with vines/climbers

Oroville, WA

Hello everyone!

This is my first post here, and I figured this would be a good place to start, since this problem has been bothering me for the last few years. I've tried growing clematis (it wasn't correctly labled and I planted in the wrong spot) and specifically trumpet vine on this west facing wall of the building in the image. We live in the highlands of northeastern washington by the canadian border, which is around zone 5. We usually have cold winters, the lowest temperature we've had is -25. In the summer the average temperature is around 85 but it can get to around 101 in august/september, with low humidity.

Now, the problem is that I planted these guys three years ago and they don't grow very much during the summer, maybe three to seven inches during august (late). Then during the winter whatever new growth there was dies off. I fertilize them two times during the summer and mulch them. I've also kept them well watered on a timer system. I can understand why the clematis doesn't grow very well in these conditions (hot afternoon sun on a metal wall), but I don't understand why the trumpet vine won't grow. I have a friend who did a similar thing with trumpet vine around the time I planted mine and it's all over her wall now. What I want to do is cover this wall with SOME kind of climber/vine(s), I'm not very particular as to what it is as long as it grows well in these conditions. Water is no issue! Any reccomendations? And thanks for your time.
Karl

Thumbnail by Wizzie
Columbia Heights, MN(Zone 4a)

Actually, I see no reason why clematis shouldn't grow there. How's your soil and what kind of clematis are you trying to grow? Clematis do need to have their roots shaded, so it helps to plant something in front. Daylilies work nice and in areas where I have limited room for plant growth, I use annuals such as coleus.

I think clematis are fairly easy. They seem to like some of the same things as roses, but not as picky. If I had to dig a new clematis location, I would amend the soil with peat moss and sometimes, if I have left over rose soil, I'll mix that in. I feed my clematis with the same fertilizer I give my roses and at the same time, which isn't too often. For sure every spring. After that it's hit and miss. If you have access to compost, use that.

It usually takes about three years for clematis to really take off and they can be sulky sometimes. In my case, I've noticed that it may take up to a month for a new clematis to settle in before I start seeing any growth. They are slow to wake up in the spring. Some people have had problems where it looks like their clematis died and then all of a sudden the following year, it takes off. I've never had that happen. I think if the roots are disturbed too much, it will set the plant back.

There are two "rules" you may be breaking that can cause failure. The noids where the vines grow out of have to be planted about 2" below ground. If you plant too shallow, it will eventually kill the plant. Also, if you have a pruning group 3 clematis, they should only be pruned in the spring and then only to about a foot above ground. If you prune in the fall, that will also eventually kill your clematis.

Give it another try. Beef up your soil a bit and pay attention to the planting depth and see if that doesn't make a difference.

There are some people on this forum that believe you should leave a new clematis in a one gallon pot for a few years until the root system is really developed, but I have a really short growing season and I can't do that. I've planted really tiny clematis with good results.

Stockton, CA(Zone 9a)

Hi Karl, sorry you are having to deal with this, really frustrating, isn't it?
a friend of mine in zone 5 has really great success with Silver Lace vine, might be something to consider if you have to make a switch.
http://davesgarden.com/pf/go/57174/index.html
Good luck!
Donna

Ellicott City, MD(Zone 7a)

Welcome Karl!

Clematis vines are perennials and will come back each year. It does take approximately 3 years to get your vine established. Amending the soil, adding bone meal to get the roots well established, and fertilizing with Rose or Tomato food will help your Clematis off to a good start. It's extremely important to make sure that the Clematis' roots do not dry out especially during the the 1st year when you are trying to get your vine established.

Some Clematis vines are more vigorous than others. A Clematis Montana will cover the entire side of your shed. Also, I would strongly recommend growing a Group 3 Clematis. They will not succumb to Clematis Wilt.

Hope this helps.

Columbia Heights, MN(Zone 4a)

Hey Shirley, do you know what causes wilt? When you say succumb, do you mean die? I get this from time to time and just cut back the offending vine. One year I had a Nelly Moser that had an awful lot of it, but the following year, no problems. It would be nice to know why this happens. I usually notice it more on new plants rather than old and established. I had one vine wilt on me this year on my Belle of Woking. I planted her last year. I cut the offending vine back and, so far so good. However the season is young.

Oroville, WA

Thanks for your advice everyone! I'll go ahead and give it another go :)

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