Wanted to share Acer palmatum 'Shigitatsu Sawa'

For years I have wanted a "Shigitatsu Sawa," not to be confused with the very popular "AKA Shigitatsu Sawa" that has pink, maroon, and red overtones (http://davesgarden.com/pf/go/88173/index.html). The "Shigitatsu Sawa" is more "understated." It has lighter green leaves, with very strong dark green veining. A friend of mine managed to find one some years back. I saw it in her yard and have been looking for it ever since.

Last year I finally tracked one down at Eastwoods Nurseries in Washington, Virginia. It did fine last year, but this Spring, the Sawa has been so beautiful I just had to share a few pictures with you. The leaves came out very much a butter yellow with a light green veining. This is what it looks like as of yesterday. Isn't it beautiful?

Another closeup

Here is a not-so-good picture of the whole tree. Not so good because I couldn't get a shot yesterday that wasn't full of other "noise" from the garden, but at least you can see the form. I will try to get a better isolated shot another day.

Hey nice tree I have the aka version ..which is much differnt ...more convoluted leaves..BUT unless your last photo is misleading your have seriously mis-planted your tree or the soil has either washed away or sunk around the tree. It looks to be planted WAY to high exposed roots are NOT a good thing ,,,If the photo isn't lyeing (sp?) you need to mound up some dirt to the bottom of the graft and /or replant it next fall...It may do just fine but it looks bad, weakens the tree seriously, and will dry it out faster and could cause other problems such as insect and bore problems IMHO ... David

Thanks, myersphcf. Let me pick your brain more about the planting of the tree. I have read (and the tree came with the same instructions) that the maple should be planted no deeper into the soil than it was in the pot. This tree came to me already several years old (around 3 years I think) and had been grown in the pot it arrived in. The top of the soil level in the pot is EXACTLY where I made the top of the soil level in the ground. The root you see exposed in my planting was likewise exposed in the pot.

So now I am confused.

Well I am no expert and generally I would say you are correct but I DON'T think it's a good idea to leave roots exposed and I never plant mine that way even if they come in pots like that...the grower was just too lazy to repot it IMHO..I'd bet it was root bond too and you had to do some doctorin' or SHOULD have...and just because it comes like that witrh a generic planting instruction doesnt mean you should follow suit... I'm sure there are others here more expert than I but I would never plant a tree like that for the reasons previously posted!! Lets get some other opinions but I DON'T think it bodes well for the future of your plant like that ..I may be a worry wart but it bothers me ...David

Here's my opinion, for what it's worth. It's very important to keep soil off of the trunk of any tree. If you planted it at the same level as it was in the pot, you've done the right thing. The chance of crown rot is just too high if you change it. If you think about bonzai specimens you will see a lot with roots exposed.

I would call Eastwood and ask before changing the grade level of the tree.

Which, by the way is stunning! Thanks for sharing it.

I agree Doss you should not plant on the trunk...although I often do if I think it has been plotted too high ...and never had crown rot on anything period ...I was just saying planting to the bottom of the boulbous gtraft that the roots are protruding out of. Also bonzai are in pots not exposed generally to wind and adverse conditions ...it would make me nervious leaving like that. I'd bet the farm it wasn't like that til the last year or so of potting when watering and root boundness either shrunk the soil in pot or it grew out of it ..IMHO it is a a matter of a lazy grower ...I have seen a few potted with some roots right at surface but NEVER protruding out in a V shape like this one it looks like crap and it definitly will weaken the plant to adverse conditions ...it may very well do great but I would "fix it" ...but a call to the dealer sure wouldn't hurt...David

Yes, doss. That's the way I feel. I once lost a JM from planting it too deep. That's what caused me to start looking around in the first place as to what the problem was then. I made the decision then never to plant another tree deeper than it was planted in the pot. This tree was not root bound when I received it. It had been growing in the pot for several years and was in excellent shape when I received it. I decided to make the least change in its environment as possible.

I will try to get some more pictures of the roots today -- some closeups. Perhaps that will give yall a better idea of the tree's condition. I want to do right by the tree.

I can see your point David. It does look as if it was potted incorrectly. I had the opposite problem once buying a tree that had recently been repotted with the soil about one and a half inchs UP the trunk. Not good at all. I guess I'm just letting my anxiety speak.

Okay, here are a slew of closeups of the roots. I think you can clearly see the graft, then there are basically THREE roots that go into the ground. All are VERY rooted, and as I think you can see from the pic, I am afraid to bury them deeper. But what do you think?

Tried to take different angles and minimize the sun.

The biggest, straightest root is to the left in this shot.

Last shot.

I think I will also send these pics to Eastwoods, remind them that the tree is planted just as it deep as it came to me in the pot, and ask them what their advice is.

Sent Eastwoods the pics and questions regarding planting depth. Here was there response:

"Do not plant any deeper than the root flare but some exposed root is
fine with Japanese maples. Americans tend to cover all the roots but
having some show is more of a Japanese look. We like it and feel it
gives the tree a visual base."

Feedback, anyone?

Well I would ask someone else ...The person i would ask is Michael over at the garden web here's his link email link 5150@mandmmaples.com

Tell him David from Ilinois wanted you to get his opinion being one of the most experienced ones... send him a pic ...if he agrees with eastwoods i will admit I am wrong and you can rest easy !!!

BUT....I don't buy their story ..maybe true BUT i've never seen a pic of one in japan like that ...the closest thing I have seen was in the Lord of the Rings...those walking trees ...yours looks like it is about to "take off' walkin' ;>) in fact i have NEVER seen any tree planted like that at any nursery....or in any arbouretum as I said occasional roots along the surface pushing through but not a walkin' tree...but as I said I MAY BE WRONG...hopefully I AM !! David

David. Thanks. I sent Michael an email. I'll let you know what he says.

I might add they are NOT contradicting what i have said the "root flare" STARTS at the base of the bulbous graft area not up the trunk I never said that!!! ...that is where it should be planted...even if they like the walking look I don't think it should be planted that high ...the base of graft area is perfect and this would not have even been brought up if it were planted there in their pot ...cause you would have planted it there... I think they are just CYA'ing with this classic Japanese look ????!!! IMHO D

LOL "walking look"

I have seen tons of JM's with exposed roots like that and I would agree with Eastwood that its a matter of preference. There are 2 huge 10' wide atro's outside my office with twice the length exposed of youre tree. They are very healthy and we are in N Texas zone 7-8 w worse conditions. Consider the state of the tree and make your own decision. If it was healthy when you bought it that way it should be happy in the ground that way. If you want to be safe then cover the apex, it definitely wont hurt anything.

David, thanks so much for referring me to Mike. After I sent him pictures and a copy of this thread, he sent me a delightful response in addition to closeup pictures of some of his JMs. In a nutshell, he said I had planted the tree appropriately and that Eastwoods was right that there was some matter of preference.

I wanted to share with all reading this thread a part of Michael's email response to me as it might help others in planting their JMs:

Maples "do not like to be planted too deeply and have shallow roots. If the maple we buy has been containerized for some time and we plant it too deeply we smother the roots. With a potted maple, we have such a limited root diameter that we cannot afford to plant it too deeply as it may not spread its roots fast enough to get the oxygen it needs. This creates stress to let systemic diseases take hold and
causes root rot in some cases. It is not uncommon for us to plant a maple, let it sit a week and then go pull it up another inch while using a stake to force more soil under the plant. They need to be planted high."

Good to know ...I stand corrected ...guess not being in a JM "mecca" I just had NEVER seen one planted that way ....David

This sure turned out to be an interesting and educational thread!

Laura

Interesting info. and beautiful tree, it has been on my list.

irmaly, I always plant my JM's with the root flare a little above ground. also I wash all the dirt away and spread the roots out the way nature intended and no staking. they acclimate a lot better than just sticking them in the ground with the roots going in circles(very bad). I make up my own rooting solution of IBA,NAA (rooting hormones)and water that in also, lol hostajim1

I like it!...Thanks for sharing all the great info